I'm sure they will take the same route, but this will be my cars first journey like this so I'll likely stretch it's legs a bit, they typically go to Florida too but, I'm not doing that. I have to cross 3 more hours of Ontario, but well see, never been out your way, been down most of the South Eastern seaboard.

Little update, got the Konis, and suspension installed currently working on the DTSS eliminators, and the power steering depowerization, but my snapring pliers suck!!! Time to upgrade!!

Well continuing to de power the rack, how did you get the seal in the center of the tube out Brian? I'm having a hell of a time.

Never mind, figured it out LOL anyways, it's half back together, just waiting til Monday to get my new boots had I have known they were over $25 each I would have tried saving them, but the one was screwed so I cut them both... OOPS.

I did notice that if the yoke plug is easily over tightened and can cause stiffness in the rack, so you have to adjust it accordingly.

Yup, those little bastards are pricey and easily broken. I got luck with both of mine. I may be diving into the rack this winter though. I seem to have developed a slight vibe wieh going strait or turning right. Me thinks one of my 4 tie rods is worn :( Oh well.

I used a proper sized socket and a few extentions and just pounded it out like a $5 whore :smash:

We still got some time to figure it out. Maybe the thing to do.... not really knowing where in moose humping land you are ;) is for you to travel down south south-east and we'll meet in Harrisburg or something like that. I thought about the trip to the Keys, but at that time of year I just can't break away from work for that long, blows those moose.

I'm heading down that way next weekend to pick up the FD.... I'll scout it out :rofl:

Yeah, to avoid shit like that I'm just going to replace them with greaseable MOOGS they are only $85 and suspension isn't a place I intend to cheap out on. Ball joints will be replaced as well.


I just used the rack, for removal, and reinstall, just tapped the seal all around and made sure it was seated.

Yeah lots of time, who knows if I will have a car done, or if I can get off work, but if possible I might just drive to your hitch a ride with you?? No favours, other than half the gas monies and some food I guess.


I hate you, but there is a local FD selling for $12k wish I had the money.

Disassembled my rear subframe today, needs one new wheel bearing so it's getting both, I also made a new lower arm bar, its amazing what you can do with some 1" round tubing and a press in the basement. Pics are coming of the lower arm bars, it's just drying.

Pics now. I have no patience especially with pressing plans tonight. Ther better be pics next time I log in or there will be consequences :smilielol5:

Sexy consequences?

pics for Mr.Horny.


I'm thinking about somehow triangulating this back to the tranny mounts.

lol, that is so simple, yet so effective, I am going to copy that!

---just sayin.

I was thinking about selling them for $40 so send me $20 please.

Edit, I just successfully drilled 2 .040" holes in my left index finger nail... And it feels fantastic!!!

/\ lol, that's funny and terrible at the same time, pics or it didn't happen!

Possibly, you better get your safety goggles and the speculum :suspect:

Nice Kevin. I think going back to the tranny mount or even the frame rail would be a good idea. I'd have to look under the car again but I'm not sure if it's even possible to go all the way back to the tranny mounts on the body.

:smilielol5: Nice, you've seen the one I built yes? Retardedly overthought to say the least.

Ok, once I can forgive but, unless you had a huge blood blister underthere that needed some relieving.......... twice?

Here you go the pressure bled off all night, and it's still kinda sore.

Damn, so how did you even do that? and twice!

I used my hand to drill it out, because I whacked my finger with a hammer. I heated the drill bit up nice and hot to sterilize it, and drilled on the part that had blood pressure building up underneath it.

you sir, have balls. I am not even worried to admit i that I would be to much of a p**** to drill into my own hand...

LOL it's not like I used a hand drill just a drill bit and my right hand...

:smilielol5: I've done that before but I've used a needle. Cherry hot melts the fingernail away. Best thing you can do for it really. Even blood blisters. You gotta pop those fuckers before it scabs underneath. If it scabs, you're in for a long road before it finally heals. If you get all the blood out, it'll heal in a matter of days as opposed to weeks.

My buddy on the other hand..... well lets just say his friend bashed his finger good during the day and after a LONG night at the bar, had his friends use an 18V DeWalt cordless and a 1/16". Needless to say they went too deep.

If you didn't use a drill, it doesn't count... haha. I have used a needle for that shit too, and acne as well back when I had problems with it.

Anyone know where can get a 50mm HKS wastgate inlet flange?

Thought, I would post up how I removed the Exhaust port sleeves, and why:

Here is why:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...c/DSC00700.jpg

Here is how:
Clean the carbon off, I recommend, brake clean
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...c/DSC00688.jpg
Stick the Trusty, MIG welder in there and blast away until you have a nice mound of weld
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...c/DSC00693.jpg
Attach Vice Grips, and wiggle out
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...c/DSC00697.jpg
Voila, no more Sleeve in housing!!
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...c/DSC00699.jpg

I apologize for the crappy pics, but you get the Idea

Cheers,

Kevin

Kevin, are you still in need of a full set of injectors and a 1:1 RR Reg?

Nope, I have lots of fuel, and I have a Aeromotive with 3/8" NPT inlets, and outlet, I'm good, I have a .96A/R Turbine housing coming for my Turbo tho, I spose it's a TO4E O trim... Just bought seals, and corner seals, so I guess I could start clearancing the seals...

You still planning on making DGRRX?

Donno bud, I spose I could drive my car down there STOCK, no turbos, no RE or anything... Just have to transfer it into my name, and get insurance...

Well, I think it's time for an update, I have some time off (laid off) waiting for a call for another job, and I figure I better get my butt in gear.

I never did update this thread before with the lower arm bar, so I will post those pics as well.

Here is the lower control are bar I made, pretty easy really get some 1" tube and crusj the ends in a press, and drill a few holes and you are good to go.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01168.jpg

Here it is installed:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01193.jpg

Tearing the front subframe down so I can wash and repaint it:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01194.jpg

Now in order to make way for the new subframe to go in I have to dismantle the one currently on the car; I'm sure a few FC owners can agree with me here, getting the brake rotors off the front is a MAJOR cluster fuck... I found away to get the bastards off, I made a few new swear words up a few years ago, when I was hammering them off, and even with my hydraulic press I couldn't get them off so this is what I did:

Here are the Siamese twins, you separate them and you kill one of them, usually the rotor, it's cheaper than going to a shop, and not that hard or time consuming, took about 25mins or so:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01196.jpg

Take Mr.Grinder, and cut notches in the hat of the rotor, you will see a hole in the middle stop grinding there:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01197.jpg

Insert cold chisel with a hammer:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01198.jpg

You will actually crack the rotor and this separates the the hub from the rotor partially. Be careful when doing this you don't want a chunk of rotor coming off at 120MPH:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01200.jpg

Oh, and you thought it would just pop off now right? Not so much... Reinstall it on the car with a bolt through the strut, and on the ball joint mounting points:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01201.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01202.jpg

Insert a prybar between the rotor and the brake caliper mounting boss and hammer in that starts the separation even more:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01203.jpg

and one in the lower mounting boss:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01204.jpg

After the prybars no longer fit in there, hit the rotor with a hammer, and rotate it a 1/4 turn every strike until this happens:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01206.jpg

Here is why they don't separate...:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01209.jpg

Have fun, and I'll be more vigilant on the updates now!

I have never had that much trouble getting brake rotors off my FC, or any vehicle for that matter, lol... WTF. Was it just that corroded? I mean, the hubs are AL so to prevent this reason of rusting solid on the rotor... I've had to use an air hammer and some deep creep but thats about it...

Although, I just saw your in Ontario. Corrosion there must be much worse :)

I have never had an easy time, the car has 75k miles, so they could be the originals. Also when you put two disimilar metals together you are going to get corrosion like that, specially with heat cycling like you see on a brake rotor.

Yea... but I'm thinking the northern weather doesn't help. I've pulled original rotors from a 7 with 82K miles (on the rotors) and they still came off fairly clean... it was a florida car though...

Being on the Ocean can't help, but that must be nice LOL my 20ton press couldn't get them off it was crazy!!

did you try a sledge hammer? Those work great for me.

Can't swing a sledge in the wheel well, and a Minisledge in on my need to buy list.

I have been busy, cleaning, stripping and painting everything bolted to the front subframe this week, should have updates in a few days!

oxy/ace torch and a deadblow has never failed me. Hell the torch and a #3 screwdriver has always worked when the impact fails to get the holding screws out

What are you using for secondary rails and injectors Kevin?

I don't have Torches right yet, again on the need to buy list LOL.

I am using the Stock RE rails and Modified Ford 1680cc Injectors.

I'll have to swing by and see the progress on the car. I haven't seen it since I dropped it off at your place last fall. Maybe when I'm putting my break in miles on the Rx-4 a trip to Goderich will be in order.

Yes come on over, you can even help me build the deck if you time it right LOL.


Time for another update:

While I was removing the front subframe I found lots of surface rust... Something I was so happy I thought this car was mostly free of, well it's not some idiot put a standard brake fitting in the master cylinder, and it pissed brake fluid everywhere! The entire drivers side frame rail doesn't have any paint any longer:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01214.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01215.jpg

Here is the culprit, a whopping 3 threads of engagement if I'm lucky, not is it stupid to ruin the paint it's majorly unsafe!:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01217.jpg

I have also been very busy painting the front suspension components:

Ball Joints:

I also cut off the old rubber boots, and installed the Energy Suspension boots:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01213.jpg

Control arms, already have Energy Suspension bushings installed, with a fresh coat of aluminum paint:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01212.jpg

and the subframe, 3 coats of matte black rustoleum later:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/DSC01210.jpg

I have to figure the best way to neutralize the brake fluid and get a coat of paint on there. So updates might take a few days now.

Great updates.

This project is coming along well.

Just remember, don't add one parts without a tune ;).

Just give that area a good wash with some brake clean. That will get rid of any brake fluid. Shouldn't hurt any of the exisiting paint either.