Sorry about the delay. It's been a little hectic lately so I'm just now having some spare time to sit down and write this while my shoulder heals up.
We've covered a lot so far... and I know; not a lot of pictures have been shown so far. Don't worry they're in the pipe line. I just want to maximize the information up front so there's no delusions of what you may be attempting. This portion however is perhaps the most important for our engines. If you haven't already, check out this
thread as it will give you a basic understanding of what oil you should be using, why you should be using it, and results of other oils that have been used. Make sure you read it. It's important. Do not read any further until you have finished that thread (It's only a couple pages at the most).
Alright. You read it right? Good. Now that you have a fundamental understanding of what you're going to be pouring into your engine to lubricate your bearings, cooling your rotors, lubricating your turbo, and what you'll more than likely be spilling/leaking on the ground at some point or another--you're ready to figure out what you need for your oil system.
The oil system is pretty straight forward, but there's a lot of little things you may miss if you don't really pay attention. I'm still figuring out the little details on my system so don't be upset if you have a few little bugs to work out. The important thing is that you get oil where it needs to be when it needs to be there. You also need to ensure that the oil is going go arrive at it's intended destination under the proper pressure. There's no sense in having really great oil that can not get to where it needs to be, ya dig?
With that in mind a simple, but detailed list is as follows. Remember, this may be more or (probably more likely) less than you need. Alter the list as you see fit to better work with what you have on hand, and what you can easily acquire.
- Oil Pan Gasket
- Oil Lines (ss/rubber/etc)
- Oil Filter Pressure/Temp Adapter
- Oil Feed Line
- Oil Return Line
- Oil Pressure Regulator
- Thermal Pellet modification
- Teflon Sealant
- -AN Fittings
- NPT/Metric/-AN Adapters
- Oil Filter
- Oil
- NPT Plugs
- NPT/AN Bungs
Not a bad list, but definitely longer than most. I'm not going to go over them specifically in detail, but will explain a few of the more... not-so-obvious ones.
First off the Oil Pressure Regulator(OPR). It's located in the oil pan connected to the rear housing (only if my memory serves me correctly. It may not be). Basically you will need to up the pressure to ensure that adequate oil is maintained throughout the system. This also means you'll need to ensure that you're not upping it too much and rupturing oil lines. It could prove very bad if that were to occur. Very bad indeed.
Now you can spend the dime on getting an adjustable OPR or you can modify your existing one to see the appropriate pressure. If you wish to do the latter, look up the video from Pineapple Racing where they modify their stock OPR to function at a higher pressure. There are other ways to do it, but I found that way the easiest.
The rest should be fairly straight forward. Make sure the oil stays cool so you must have a way to ensure that the oil gets to the proper location reliably. In my setup I chose to do away with the stock lines and manufacture my own since I was planning on moving my Oil Cooler forward and make it perpendicular. The lines themselves are quite easy to make, and if you have any -10AN or larger you may be able to make them for under $70. I actually went out and bought what I needed to make them from a local individual and was able to construct them myself for only $70. It's not a bad deal, especially when you consider that other shops will ship you lines that may not function as well as you would like them and for about 3 times the price of what I constructed mine for. But that's neither here nor there. So moving on.
The oil filter adapter is needed to draw oil pressure from the engine and put it on the turbo itself. The turbo's oiling system does not draw it or relinquish it under it's own power. For that cause we need an oil feed line and an oil drain line. Each dealing with the same subject but from two different aspects. The oil feed line allows oil under pressure to be fed into the turbo. This usually is a -4AN or smaller line that connects up to it. Remember your application may be different and require different things. If you have a Turbonetics inc turbo you do not need an oil restrictor unless you see over a specific PSI of oil pressure at WOT. You'll need to talk to your turbo manufacturer to ensure you have one if needed. The oil return line needs to be mounted in such a way as to ensure that it's a direct (read that up/down) path to the oil as possible. If that is not possible in your application you'll need to pick up a scavenge pump. I on the other hand have had some success in draining the oil below the oil line in the oil pan, but that is through the use of pipes, an oil accumulation chamber and a soft line to the welded bung. It works well, but I may eventually trade over to a scavenge system at some point for a cleaner install and less troubles.
There are still other things to make sure you have taken care of, but this should help you get on the right track. Make sure you understand these basics before going forward and laying down hard earned money for part you don't need or want.