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Old 07-15-2008, 02:41 PM   #11
RETed
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If the Ron Davis units require that kinda fabrication to install, then an AFCO Racing 80125N is about the same thing...for under $300.
The only catch is that keeping the stock battery (tray) is next to impossible.
It's a 26" width rad, so things get tight up front, but it does fit between the engine frame rails.
There are several options to mount this unit, but be prepared to do some minor cutting.
These are really for "race" cars with extensive mods, or owners are prepared to do mods for function over form.
I tend to lop off most of the original radiator brakets on the car for this install.
I'm close to completing my FMIC install, so I'll try and post pics of my install with this rad soon (don't hold your breath now).

We've tested this unit on our race car up at Thunderhill in the middle of summer in 100F+ ambients.
It was able to keep the coolants temps under 205F no problem.

Some specs...
The rad has the hose fittings on the proper sides - none of this Chevy / Ford crossover hose crap.
The top hose is 1.5" - same as stock.
The bottom hose is 1.75" - stock is 1.5"; we use auto parts stores generic hose that's around 11" long but uses a 1.5" on one side and 1.75" on the other - perfect.
It is a double-pass design for better efficiency.
It's a 3" thick core.
It uses a "domestic" type rad cap on the rad - need to buy separately.
The rad cap filler neck does have a 1/8" NPT fittings for bypass use.
This filler neck makes it easy to bleed air out of the system.
If you want to add any of the stock FC stuffs - lower thermoswitch, coolant level, heater hose - you need to add / fab them yourself.


-Ted
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