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Old 02-12-2009, 01:02 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WE3RX7 View Post
Pics, or it never happened

You going to be around Culpeper much when this is finished up?? I want to see it...
Come the summer months. I'm still concerned about that rear rotor housing. I keep flip flopping between it being excess gas or coolant. I honestly didn't notice any un-accountable coolant going missing, but then again I don't think gas would stay pooled in the rear housing for that long.... Maybe i'm just paranoid.

anyways, my shipment from summit should be getting here soon and I can finally get my fuel rails put together.

I'll try to snag some pictures here in a few. It's going to be a busy time in a little while.






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Old 02-12-2009, 01:44 PM   #32
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Well, in an attempt to move forward with the project, you can use the engine in there as it is to build the turbo system, do the plumbing, etc and if then once everything is setup good... you could pull the block and do a quick rebuild. I always recommend doing a rebuild BEFORE blowing seals through the new turbine...
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Old 02-12-2009, 03:17 PM   #33
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I'll probably need to pull and port it eventually, but I need it to at least last over the summer months and get me back to tech for next year. Once the school year starts again I don't mind not having a car and porting the engine.
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:41 PM   #34
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well... today I was able to confirm that I'm going to need to pull the engine and rebuild it. The coolant seal has gone and there is a nice puddle of coolant sitting in the rear rotor area. At least this way I can port the intake and maybe even get rid of the baffles in the exhaust.

Going to pull the engine probably tomorrow and see what I need to get to rebuild it. I'm thinking just the atkins gasket kit and what not.
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Old 02-15-2009, 11:28 PM   #35
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If the coolant seal went, I'd check the step wear on the irons.

You may not need apex seals & springs, so that should save some $$
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:52 AM   #36
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Well pulled apart the rear iron today (and did a few other things), and I found this:

It's about a half inch gap on the lower portion of the iron where the seal failed. Besides that no damage from what I can see. I think all the seals on my rotors are good, but for the most part I'm still attempting to see if the backing of the inner oring is supposed to be like that or not. I thought it was supposed to have rear support all the way around. It doesn't look like a metal failure but like it's been either caste that way or removed by a dremel. There's no damage to the Oring surface, but that concerns me.

And here's a random picture (didn't take any of the car), but it's getting closer and closer to POR15 time. Still got to do the marine clean and metal prep, then tape it up and start painting.

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Old 02-16-2009, 03:00 AM   #37
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Anyone willing to give me a rear iron for a 6 port engine? Or am I going to have to go digging for a new engine?
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Old 02-16-2009, 03:07 PM   #38
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/\ PM sent!
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Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:49 PM   #39
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yea, that iron is f'd.

I just did POR15 today. Have fun. I'm not in love with the application process, but it turns out ok. And their "semi" gloss is super glossy, lol...
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Old 02-18-2009, 10:06 PM   #40
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well removed the rear iron and rear housing today, the housing looks prestine. I'll be specing it shortly and the Apex seals look to be two piece apex seals with lots of life left (though I have not spec'd them yet).

Also begun degreasing the engine bay with the marine clean. Will finish degreasing and application of it next time I'm out there. Still need to pick up a few supplies but I should be making large amounts of head way soon.
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Old 02-20-2009, 04:25 PM   #41
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Look what came in the mail today!

Should be getting the other parts for the exhaust sometime next week. Also plan on working on the car today so I should have a few more pictures and what not.
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Old 02-20-2009, 04:34 PM   #42
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I dont get it - big red plastic bags? How will that help

You should put off all that work and come to the drive tomorrow, I'll be down in lynchburg for it, www.thecvmc.com

Good luck man...
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Old 02-20-2009, 04:53 PM   #43
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Can't, I have no other vehicle, so I must put this one back together asap. I need to get done.
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Old 02-22-2009, 03:55 PM   #44
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Alright, well I inspected the Apex seals. They are the classic 3 piece mazda style apex seals and they all measure within .1mm of 7mm in total height, there is very, very, very little warpage aka, unable to measure the warpage without causing the pieces to separate. So now I stand on the threashold trying to decide on if I should buy a new set of Apex seals (2 piece, or 1 piece) and if I do buy a new set, do I want to have them cryogenically treated or not... I'd like increased durability and reliability, but I'm not sure if it would be worth the increase in price. Any suggestions?

Here's some pictures of what's been accomplished so far:
Drilled, and tapped secondary fuel rail. At some point in the future I may get rid of this and go with a KGParts fuel rail instead. But in the meantime I think this will work out nicely.

Rough look of where I want the new radiator to sit. I plan on relocating the oil cooler an inch or so forward and dropping the radiator down to have a complete perpendicular set up (no mo' angles).

Notice that there is no more "webbing" to restrict the movement or placement of the radiator.
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Old 02-25-2009, 12:38 AM   #45
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Well I just ordered a 6PI large street port template and the 6PI inserts from pineapple racing and they should be here by either the end of the week or sometime next week.

Once I break apart the last bit of the engine (the lock bolt is still giving me trouble and the little pulley thing is still giving me some trouble) down and pull the rotor and inspect the iron and housing I'll order the rebuild kit and apex seals from atkins and start the process of porting and building it to handle 2-300 hp.
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