Warning Light Cluster problem

***TitaniumTT*** · 07-27-2014, 10:16 AM

You're on both right tracks Pete.... I wouldn't be surprised if the alt puked or the belt broke

Pete_89T2 · 07-27-2014, 11:11 AM

Checked the charging system out this morning, looks like my alternator puked... Belts are fine & tensioned properly. Did some quick DVM measurements with the engine idling resulted in only 11.4V with no extra accessories on, which dropped to about 11.2 with the headlights on & heater fan running @ max. Shutting the engine off and taking the same measurements resulted in 12.5V with lights off and 11.9 with lights on, so the battery is healthy.

Pete_89T2 · 07-27-2014, 11:35 AM

On another (related) topic, since I'll need to replace my alternator, I'd like to replace it with one of those higher than stock output current (> 100 Amps) drop-in alternators. There are a number of shops out there that build these, some more reputable than others. Was wondering if anyone had any experience with this that has a good shop to recommend?

RETed · 07-27-2014, 06:50 PM

I'm going through a bunch right now...

I already run an FD alternator on my FC 13BT.

I've got a "160A" FD unit off of eBay for like ~$160.
It's a disappointment.
The damn thing barely idles @ ~13.0VDC.
Loaded down at idle, it runs about 12.0VDC.
The seller was named "HighAmpSpecialist" or something like that.

One of my previous posts talks about having good experience (rebuilt starter for my FC) from an eBay seller "AceAlternators" (or something like that), but they don't offer an FD unit anything over 130A now...
They used to have a 160A, but I haven't seen that unit for sale for a few months now.

There's another eBay seller called B&R or something, and they offer FD alternators in the 160A range for about $200?

Check the feedback. and there's negative comments of the upgrade alternators being bullsh*t.

I would highly recommend to go with a MechMan unit if you got the bucks...
Last time I checked, it was about $330?
Yes, it's a little pricey, but these things are rated like 250A...
http://www.mechman.com/

-Ted

07-27-2014, 10:16 AM	#1
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	You're on both right tracks Pete.... I wouldn't be surprised if the alt puked or the belt broke __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

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07-27-2014, 11:11 AM	#2
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD Posts: 874 Rep Power: 16	Checked the charging system out this morning, looks like my alternator puked... Belts are fine & tensioned properly. Did some quick DVM measurements with the engine idling resulted in only 11.4V with no extra accessories on, which dropped to about 11.2 with the headlights on & heater fan running @ max. Shutting the engine off and taking the same measurements resulted in 12.5V with lights off and 11.9 with lights on, so the battery is healthy.

07-27-2014, 11:35 AM	#3
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD Posts: 874 Rep Power: 16	On another (related) topic, since I'll need to replace my alternator, I'd like to replace it with one of those higher than stock output current (> 100 Amps) drop-in alternators. There are a number of shops out there that build these, some more reputable than others. Was wondering if anyone had any experience with this that has a good shop to recommend?