TitaniumTT/Speed1 Junkyard turbo 'Vert here we go DGRR fire build

[FerociousP]

Dude... stock ports can yield insane numbers. Highest I've hear of was 603, I've personally seen over 500 on stock ports. So yeah... don't put to much stock in mystical ports. Besides, you can increase flow alot without changine timing. This is what I plan on. I want to hit or beat 280rwhp with the stock turbo.

You might have to tell me some of these mystic ways... but first I need a PP that won't slip.

BRING THAT SHIT UP HERE! I'll squeeze some more power out on the dyno. FWIW I run 19* @ 17psi and 11.7-12.0 afr's But that's on the Motec...

Wow, i've been scared to pump up the timing too much without a dyno.. maybe I can at least do 20@10 and 15@15?

Damn this slipping PP is sure holding me back!!

What? Like parted out? Why?

To pay for and cannibalize parts for my truck project. Also, I don't want to HAVE to park my car in a garage to keep it dry inside. Soooooo, it will enjoy one more DGRR (this time with coilovers) and then the motor and trans (gearbox at least) and ecu will start to go into the truck.

Also, interesting note since you love testing things! We have a PP tester here at work that measures the clamping force. So far i've measured a used 100k rx8 PP (800lbs), and my unknown bass boat blue painted jdm t2 PP (920lbs). When I get some spare time I'll test brand new off the shelf ones and any other upgraded ones I can get my hands on. I'll also be testing my current shitty PP to see how it compares to stock, but that won't happen for a while.

[Raksj04]

I have a question. Could you dulite the puple power? If so that may prevent the bearing from being pitted however I am not familar with this product.

Also "Sir admin". does this mean you are not going to be bring your custom badass trailer to DGRR?

[beefhole]

FWIW I used a big brass brush wheel to clean my rotors. Brass is perfectly safe on iron parts. MEGA CLEAN ROTORS!!!! For the tiny spots and edges, I used a Dremel with the paint stripping bits. They are kind of like hard sponge, and come in different colors. Finally, for grooves and other crevices, I used carb cleaner and old seals.

It's somewhat therapeutic cleaning rotors...

PS
Don't buy into the myth that using a brush will wear the cadmium coating on the rotor. That was temporary for a long time ago when the rotors were first made and they sat on shelves... Some people don't seem to realize cadmium has a lower melting point than lead. The coating is long gone by now.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by beefhole

FWIW I used a big brass brush wheel to clean my rotors. Brass is perfectly safe on iron parts. MEGA CLEAN ROTORS!!!! For the tiny spots and edges, I used a Dremel with the paint stripping bits. They are kind of like hard sponge, and come in different colors. Finally, for grooves and other crevices, I used carb cleaner and old seals.

It's somewhat therapeutic cleaning rotors...

Yes, yes it is... I use nothing but old seals and a brass brush and lots of carb clean..

I usually do it with the radio cranked, but tonight I had the Ipod on... if anyone saw me it would've been embarassing... I was actually singing along

Official update: 62 days left and not much done... Colin came by to colelct his parts so I spent a fair amount of time welding tonight, and then a fair amount of time on the phone... I did start cleaning the rotors and I did start working on the front iron... taking teh paint off. Luckily for me I put in so much time this week @ work, I'll be clocking out early and will have probably 6-8 hrs tomorrow night. Plan is to decide which rotors to use, finish cleaning up the center iron, port all three and tape them off for paint on saturday... then build build build on Sunday... so we'll see what happens.

Off to play a quick game of chess then back to the parts washer .... then there's a shower with my name all over it

[WE3RX7]

What seals are you using in the rebuild? Were any reusable in that motor that you plan to keep in it (IE: side seals, corner seals, etc)

GL man - word down this way is snow on Sunday so you all are hosed

[Ian]

How do you find so much time to post and work on your car? Post pic too See you at the DGRR.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by hades

Why not other TDI coolers? They are the parent company of Fluidyne. I have worked with them on a few big projects. Pm me if you want the details.

Hmmmmm. shoot me a PM, I'm curious what you're talking about.

Another benefit of FD coolers, they'er here and they're practically free

Originally Posted by Ian

How do you find so much time to post and work on your car? Post pic too See you at the DGRR.

I live off of a carefully measured amount of RedBull, coffee, Starbucks energy drinks, zingers and Omelettes... and it's time for my omelette

And I have a strict, "I'll sleep when I'm dead" attitude.

It's just dicipline. Theres a solid 15 hours in a day that are useable.

I will post some pics tomorrow. Right now I do need to eat and sleep, work tomorrow and the gf is coming up, need to be rested.

[TitaniumTT]

Official update from tonight though, with 61 days left. Got the plates fully cleaned and prepped. Got the plates ported and got my nipples tapped in. Also re-tapped off the housings and front cover incase I do decide to re-paint them I can do it tomorrow. I didn't get EVERYTHING done that I wanted to, but that's ok, tomorrow.... err today rather, is another day.

[IH8DSM]

Yea I trashed a set of bearings because of purple power, it attacks the coating or absorbs into the bearing and just destorys the bearing less then a 1000 miles on the motor siezed it.


End of story purple power can suck a whole bag of dicks.

Im also curious why your not using solid corners is that super secret titanium red bull fueled knowledge

[TitaniumTT]

Wow.... I dunno what the eff we're using, but it can't be purple power. We've never had a motor come back so short like that. I pulled them out, they look and feel fine, the only soaked for like 24 hrs, but Chris has said some of the really nasty ones he's let soak for 3 days and the carbon just falls off.

I'm wondering if it isn't shit that's getting caught in the rotors and infecting the oil system?

Atkins don't seal all that great from the start and CAN have starting issues. The ones from RX7 specialties are supposed to be VERY tough on plates.

The more I think about the more I think I'm just going to rock stockers. The only reason they broke was because I banged the plates. The rotors that go in will be clearanced so hopefully this doesn't happen again. Basically the engien that I build next for the coupe will be rockin' a super DUPER secret turbo if the BNR's don't at least get back what I made stock. So I'm building that engine in anticipation of over 500wheel. Rotors will be balanced, lightened, and clearanced so touching plates shouldn't happen and the need for soild corners shouldn't exist.

[Raksj04]

I think the guy who are having problems with purple power didn't dilute it. The MSDS says it has Complete Solubility in Water. I am thinking some people have been using it straight up, which may lead to the pitting.

[RX SE7EN]

Just found out that the guy you bought the block from swapped all the matching accessories off before he sold it to you hahahaha




(j/k, just a random pic i found, titled "engine swap for DGRR")

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by RX SE7EN

Just found out that the guy you bought the block from swapped all the matching accessories off before he sold it to you hahahaha




(j/k, just a random pic i found, titled "engine swap for DGRR")

WOW!!!!! Thankfully I didn't get those mani's... that shit looks like it's on there THICK! gross....

[TitaniumTT]

Project Junkyard Turbo 'Vert continues to move along at a snails pace... mainly becuase I got held up on the dyno till 7 or so tonight, and I'm still trying to get some shit welded up for a different and believe it or not more time sensitive project.

So.... with 58 days left... here's what we've got accomplished.... NOT MUCH!

The car did get a bath and get moved inside... as you requested DJ, here are some pics of the beaut inside.

I was going to compound the car down to get a really good idea of the body work that needs to be done, but there are more pressing matters at hand than spending a few hours with a buffing wheel.





The interior is in great shape

For some reason, I can't remember why, I pulled the steering whell off the car. We have a fork truck here that we use to tow cars around with... well, Kyle was running at a high rate of speed and I was steering.... and then the steering wheel was in my lap while I was aimed at a moving fan dropping a car off Almost added a few more things to the todo list for this project.




But the body is in really good condition. Only a few spots of rust and overall a good solid car. She should roll nicely when all is done.



And of course the Atihun hood that I picked up about 2 yrs ago. As odd as it is, I will have 3 RX7's, 2 FC's and 1 FD, all with the same basic aftermkt hood. The one on the coupe that I built from a stock AL hood. This Atihun hood... and a few months ago, maybe a yr, who knows, I picked up a carbon Fibre Mazdaseed hood for the FD. Basically the Atihun guys took the vent from the FD MazdaSpeed hood and molded it onto an FC hood. Then used that as a plug to build this hood. It's by far my favorite aftermkt hood.... second to the one I built of course



Regardless, there is some body work in this cars future before DGRR.... so if anyone wants to help, we'll be spraypainting at the lodge on Friday night, hoping it dries before Sat morning

[TitaniumTT]

So I planned to have the engine built over the weekend, a few problems came up with that... my girlfriend was in town and believe it or not, I would've rather spent the better part of sunday and Monday with her than here at the shop. There was also some time lost in sourcing new rotors, figuring out what to do with bearings, etc etc. Came into work on Sunday ready to rock and roll clearancing the rotors and it all went to hell. I had literally 125 side seals to choose from and I had to dig into the stash I had bought for my car for 2 of them Oh well, not like I need them anytime soon and I always order 14 so I can screw 2 of them up and not worry.

Regardless, that took a lot of time up on Sunday and a few people dropped by the shop which ate up more time and we all know how that goes. I did manage to get the rotors all set and clearanced though. They are ready to rock and roll. The other thing that screwed me, I actually came into work on Monday to build the engine, but when I opened my MazdaComp box and started sorting things out, I quickly found that they didn't send the inner coolant seals in the same box. They arrived on Monday after I had already left for PA... so they are sitting in CT right now. Our engine builder used the last set maybe 2 days prior. Oh well. It's not like there isn't a bunch of other shit that needs to get done

Here you can see the organization, the old rotors on the left, look at the left most rotor... yeah, someone reused that. It's mate isn't much better. I would've thrown both those out. So, if anyone wants some S4 TII rotors, $50 each. Came out of an engine that did >400wheel supposedly.



On the right you can see the rotors that I plan on using. I was kinda stuck here since I'm pretty deadset on using the stock flywheel. So my only choice was S4 n/a rotors. Actually not a bad choice at all given what the car will be used for. So yeah, here's to at least 3 hi-comp turbo motors I'll be tuning in 1 year, 2 of which I'm building myself.... kewl.

I have started working on the mani's, stripping them down and welding shit shut, welding shit on, and things of that nature. Plan now is get as much of the mani's prepped as possible in the next two days. I'm leaving right from work on Friday to go back to CT via NY to spend a night with my girl, pick up my seals over the weekend, Do some work on the never ending landi project, and a little fab on my car, then leave CT Monday morning for work on Monday. Build the engine Monday night pretty much complete, save probably the UIM and the TB.

Then pull the left fender and the dash, get the engine in and start on the wiring. The wiring willl definately take some time. I have to go back to CT on 3/4, but I have that Monday off.... there will be a lot of wiring done that day.... hopefully.

I'd like to get the engine in the car with 1/2 of the W2A intercooler done, the bottom half. So we can close the hood and see what kind of clearance I have to work the top. Should be really interesting..... anywho... as usual I'm like 5 steps ahead of myself.