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| RX-7 3rd Gen Specific (1993-2002) RX-7 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections. |
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#1 |
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Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Brenham, TX
Posts: 335
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Yes the tig welder is DC, I gave it a shot to start with and it came out like shit, It was impossible to weld. Ended up with it blowing out, not sticking, turning black. Was utter shit, and I can weld with about anything.
Why it works on a DC Mig welder? I have no idea but it does. I had to reverse the polarity of the ground clamp and trigger, but from the get go it worked smooth as butter. Except the one time I tried without the argon flowing, then flashbacks of the DC tig experience started manifesting themselves and i'm like wtf is happening. The welds didn't stick, had terrible penetration and weren't smooth at all.
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#2 |
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Needing a new tow rig.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: AR
Posts: 245
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
ya sounds about right for d/c lol reading up on it when i was buying my tig found that the a/c perfered for aluminum as the alternation of the ground and tourch create a ripple effect in the pool bringing your contaminants to the surface giving you that mirror pool to work with and know whats happening the d/c does not.
and yes i know the reversing the polarities for the d/c mig aluminum welding but from the sound of it you were having issues with the tig that were fixed buy the constant cooler wire feeding your pool keeping the temps in check and being that your constantly adding filler that way your also moving fast enough to keep the base metal cool enough to weld yet not blow through. yup i actually was gonna try welding with the mig in aluminum... hell i even have a 2lb spool of aluminum wire lol just never did and picked up the tig maybe ill try it out one day when im bored just cause i can ![]() damn see turned your thread into a welding discusion and back to the topic.... z |
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#3 |
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Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Brenham, TX
Posts: 335
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Haha it's all good
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500+ HP thanks to: ![]() Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap! |
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#4 |
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Don Mega
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Utopia
Posts: 1,688
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
Its good to see I have had an influence on the popularity of this technology
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www.riceracing.com.au Worlds best Apex Seals Coil on Plug Water Injection ECU Calibration |
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#5 |
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RCC Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 535
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
This is the bike I built in the early 80s with mechinal water / alcohol injection .Kaw 900 bored to 1400cc, rajay turbo, all hand made.Still running.
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#6 |
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Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Freedom Land
Posts: 316
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Why does having the water go into the turbo inlet help vs. out of the turbo before the intercooler? Wouldn't the water do the same cooling effect in the intercooler as in the compressor housing? Just wondering.
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#7 |
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Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Brenham, TX
Posts: 335
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Well for one the compressor really helps to atomize the water which makes it easier to flash and easier to burn in the engine. Also, in my case it HAS to be preturbo because its driven by the turbo. If it was insalled post turbo the pressure would equalize and i would have no water flow at all. There is also evidence that water injected preturbo exdends the compressor map, making the turbo more efficient at higher boost levels.
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500+ HP thanks to: ![]() Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap! Last edited by dudemaaan; 01-29-2010 at 09:49 PM. |
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#8 |
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Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Freedom Land
Posts: 316
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forgot about the pressure differential--few beers will do that.
I still wonder about the atomization since it goes through the intercooler--would it still be atomzied? your still getting awesome results either way.
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#9 |
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destroy, rebuild, repeat
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 395
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
"extending the compressor map" doesnt that just mean adds a bunch of lag? I would wager the misted water puts a lot of resistance on the comp blades, slowing spool time.. post-turbo, not a problem. dudeman have you do done any testing of turbo lag with and without WI? how much are you to expect
thinking about adding a small amount of WI for my hybrid turbo setup with an ARC tmic. intake temps in boost get up to 150F in the summer |
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#10 | |
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Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Brenham, TX
Posts: 335
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Quote:
The reason most likely that the compressor map is extended is because: As a turbo's efficiency decreases the air temps start climbing, once the air temps exceed 212*F the water will flash and start bringing the air temps back down. So more power can still be made at boost levels that normally would just cause excessive hot air. That's my take on it anyways, my turbo is pretty big so I have no way of really testing it out unless I take it to 30 psi or so.
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500+ HP thanks to: ![]() Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap! Last edited by dudemaaan; 02-01-2010 at 02:58 PM. |
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#11 |
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Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Brenham, TX
Posts: 335
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Thought I might update this a little. I made a system for a forum member on the other thread. Redesigned a few things. Came out nice. I used push lock fittings and mounted the solenoid directly to the nozzle to eliminate any chances of dripping after shutoff. Put a meter valve so water flow can be adjusted. Opened the nozzle up to 1mm to increase flow capacity a little more. I took several closeups of the nozzle and how the solenoid is attached.
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#12 |
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Don Mega
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Utopia
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FYI the nozzel will not drip no matter where the solenoid is located
*does not need to be that close and it will simplify the install.
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#13 |
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Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Brenham, TX
Posts: 335
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Actually I think having the nozzle mounted on the nozzle will simplify the install unless space is a concern, in which case it can always be moved. With the solenoid mounted to the nozzle you only have to mount one and they will both mounted. I personally think it's nicer this way compared to how I first did it. I figure if you have a foot of hose with water in it with the car bouncing around and such, it could drip out of the end since it has nothing to keep it in.
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#14 | |
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Don Mega
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Utopia
Posts: 1,688
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Quote:
mounting is a good point, I understand what your saying there. I tried it and I went back to the other way as its more flexible for people who have given me feedback, also the solenoid can be kept cooler as well, something you need to take into account. anyway it looks good, very familiar
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www.riceracing.com.au Worlds best Apex Seals Coil on Plug Water Injection ECU Calibration |
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#15 |
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Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Brenham, TX
Posts: 335
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Thanks Peter. I do really like the push lock fittings. I had a hard time finding them, but they are very nice to work with. I wouldn't mind using them for my other vacuum lines, but I'm not sure how the nylon hose would hold up in the engine bay of an RX7. I'm sure for the water injection it will be fine though.
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