Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by diabolical1

i agree with Ted. replace the plate.

Yep, it's being replaced. My spare apparently went to scrap but a friend is mailing me one.

[JustJeff]

I have all my parts collected minus a flywheel and ready to put it all together. I'm a lil dissapointed that Pineapple Racing's videos are down. Those were very helpful in spec'ing and prepping for assembly.


My flywheel on first assembly only had 1-2 cracks on it so I had it turned and used it. 2k miles later the flywheel now has cracks all over it..maybe 8 or so. Flywheel warping? I had an n370flywheel purchased but something happened in shipping, so I need to source another one. As a precaution, if needed, I bought a S5 rear counterweight, it hasn't arrived yet. It may end up being mated up with light flywheel. Depending on what I find available used.

I've replaced the exhaust manifold with a minty fresh manifold. Not a crack in sight. Though I may still want to try my hand at welding a tubular manifold this summer....if the instructor for my class will allow me to use class space and tools.

[JL1RX7]

Damn Jeff you have yet to catch a break on this rebuild/build at all.

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Damn Jeff you have yet to catch a break on this rebuild/build at all.

Tell me bout it brotha!! I understand that in every large project you need to plan for the unexpected.....but damn!!

[JustJeff]

Oh one tool I bought so that I'm sure my coolant seals are intact. Atkins coolant seal tester!!!

[JustJeff]

Sooo the saga continues. I haven't sourced a flywheel yet, but I figure I can get the engine assembled and at least get the garage organized. I was doing final cleaning and organizing to do the rebuild this week. And I find a nice little nick in my rear stat gear bearing!! I mean wtf? There is no damage on the eshaft so I don't know what or how..but it's there.

I've got a spare gear from the N/A engine and the bearing looks pretty alright. There is no copper showing. But I may spend for the new one. Seems a pity to have the front one new and the rear one used.

[JustJeff]

Disregard the post. It was a dumb question I answered by searching...

[JustJeff]

Bearing replaced. I bought an automatic rear counterweight in prep for getting an ACT Streetlite flywheel.

I have two questions about my rear counterweight

I measure the distance between my fingers to confirm that it is a S5 rear counterweight?

S5 = 12.52 to 12.85 mm
S4 = 13.23 to 13.92 mm

I believe that this wear is fine, but need to make sure

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Bearing replaced. I bought an automatic rear counterweight in prep for getting an ACT Streetlite flywheel.

I have two questions about my rear counterweight

I measure the distance between my fingers to confirm that it is a S5 rear counterweight?

There's no real way to discern the difference between the two?
In fact, I heard a rumor that if you order a new counterweight from Mazda, the part is identical for all FC years and the part #'s are identical - the new counterweights are NOT drilled, and you had to get them balanced yourself???
As a general rule for the counterweights - the S5 had more holes drilled in them versus the S4.
I weighted them once, and the difference was 0.2 lbs., which was the increment on my 100lbs. max digital scale.
So I think the difference will be a matter of ounces and even down to grams...?

I believe that this wear is fine, but need to make sure

Is that a groove (black line) in the counterweight???
I have NEVER seen a groove worn into the metal like that in my life.
Did you get an explanation for the groove?
That might wreck the rear oil seal?


-Ted

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by RETed

Is that a groove (black line) in the counterweight???
I have NEVER seen a groove worn into the metal like that in my life.
Did you get an explanation for the groove?
That might wreck the rear oil seal?

Not so much a groove, it's shiny from wear...if you run your finger over it you can barely feel it. I do not know the history on it other than it came out of a 90. It's an eBay purchase, so I may not get a response to questions.

Since concerns have been raised, it was also painted, which I planned on lightly sanding off, but it has a small notch in it also. Is that small ding enough to cause balance issues?




I assume that taking it to a machine shop would then affect clearance between seal and counterweight?

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Not so much a groove, it's shiny from wear...if you run your finger over it you can barely feel it. I do not know the history on it other than it came out of a 90. It's an eBay purchase, so I may not get a response to questions.

Hmmm...my vision was pretty bad last night due to a horrible few days at work, so you have to excuse me a bit.
I just saw that black line and went *WHAT?*.
So the black line is caused by paint?
There should be no other reason why such a black line be on that part of the counterweight due to normal use.

I'm also a little bit worried about you stating: "if you run your finger over it you can barely feel it."
It's in constant contact with a silicone oil seal that's rotating.
It it were a perfect world, that area should be smooth.
A slight imperfection could easily destroy the oil seal in short order.

Since concerns have been raised, it was also painted, which I planned on lightly sanding off, but it has a small notch in it also. Is that small ding enough to cause balance issues?

That ding doesn't look that bad.
There are vendors that offer (re)balancing services if you're that worried.

I assume that taking it to a machine shop would then affect clearance between seal and counterweight?

You can talk to the machine shop and ask them for their advice.
Explain the situation, and they should be able to give you an answer?
A competent machine should know proper clearances for this application with this type of seal...


-Ted

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by RETed

Hmmm...my vision was pretty bad last night due to a horrible few days at work, so you have to excuse me a bit.
I just saw that black line and went *WHAT?*.
So the black line is caused by paint?
There should be no other reason why such a black line be on that part of the counterweight due to normal use.

I'm also a little bit worried about you stating: "if you run your finger over it you can barely feel it."
It's in constant contact with a silicone oil seal that's rotating.
It it were a perfect world, that area should be smooth.
A slight imperfection could easily destroy the oil seal in short order.

That ding doesn't look that bad.
There are vendors that offer (re)balancing services if you're that worried.

You can talk to the machine shop and ask them for their advice.
Explain the situation, and they should be able to give you an answer?
A competent machine should know proper clearances for this application with this type of seal...


-Ted

Sorry about the confusion, the whole flat side of the weight had been painted (poorly) in silver.

The line is actually a shinny ring. It doesn't make a groove, just a different texture. I posted pics on "the other" forum and a couple of experienced members pretty much said "no big whoop", that it's normal wear.

I contacted the seller and was of course told, "I assure you it works perfectly, I was using it on my engine with no issues"

[JustJeff]

Disregard this post. I am at times an idiot. My questions were answered...

[JustJeff]

Want some opinions on the pittiing on these housings.

[JustJeff]

Update:

I used JB Weld on the suspect area just to be sure...sanded it down of course. Engine is assembled up to oil pump, front stack and cover.


I have class part of tomorrow but I'll finish up the meat of the engine tomorrow. One thing I don't remember and I know I've asked in the past. When setting play on the front stack do I want the flywheel on with the nut tightened down to spec?