It's the best advertising tool I have (BDC and HC take note!), in some ways its bad cause I get sick of people offering to buy my car after going for a ride in it! though it is flattering to hear them go on and on about how unbelievable a package it is ..............



And in all fairness to them, it is :D

You're running NRS ceramics in this car still? With or without the experimental corners?

^ No and No. ^

The engine is 100% Mazda std 13B-REW. < Stripped, checked, re assembled and put in the car just as it comes out of the box 100% stock standard with zero modifications or parts changed from factory.

^ That is the BEST part about it, ANYONE can go and achieve exactly the same result as no special parts are required nor needed!, you have a fresh healthy non molested factory engine and you will get the same result. I did this MANY years ago with a customer car but based on a T2 Series 5 engine block, back then I put it down to a one off, this times I repeated it and have achieved much more power ......... stock std engines are all you ever need, more power than you can ever handle and durability is unmatched. But the absolute best part is the power band, it shits on anything else.

So all of your performance gains are from solid tuning? Thats just fantastic. what whp are you putting down?

Real Power, see the VBOX tests at lower output.
 

The honest way I measure the power its around 330~350rwkw. If you measured it on a dyno dynamics (which read much much lower than a dyno jet) then it would be around 400+rwkw, in scum english metric units this is 530+rwhp.....

For all that typing though I dont give a fuck about dyno sheets or their guestimates as they really dont add up to reality in most cases!

All I know is that a stock 276bhp RX7 takes so long and a certain distance to do an acceleration pull (as I posted) and mine if over twice as powerful since takes under half the time and under half the distance, so by my measure its twice as powerful (as I listed in the measured RWKW) in my tests (between a spirit R type A and RICESP) and that is on much lower boost and power to what I run it at now :)

I estimate the engine power at around a GENUINE 550bhp+ but with more in reserve, which is the amazing part. And yes its down to nothing more than water injection and very fine set up of the whole system, rather than any exotic mega dollar engiens or other snake oil :)

haha thank you. often times i wish the U.S. would just switch to metric...after all i believe we are the only country using standard measurements haha.

either way im seriously impressed by this. The entire time ive been into rotaries (only since about 05-06 to present) ive been under the impression that the only way to gain power really is to start porting. and i suppose thats under the assumtion of more air in more air out+more fuel= more power. but you have clearly blown that out of the water.

Question... Would there be any benefit to doing water inj on a naturally aspirated platform?

Turbochargers are a great device, for only marginal *very marginal* increases in pressure you get great gains in power (through vastly increased air flow), much more so than what you can achieve with any type of trivial porting, so its pretty pointless making the engine worse in response and power band and run only XYZ "fixed" boost pressure..... that is what took me a long time to acknowledge as well, so you are not alone there. Lots of people are under the misconception that you need to port to make prodigious power and nohting could be further from the truth. It's not as if I am using outrageous boost levels either, you can see the listed performance I am willing to share is under moderate boost pressures and it still compares well to fully race ported examples, running gutted non leagl exhausts etc.

WI can work on anything that is knock limited, so for NA it ould have to be running very high compression that mandated a non ideal spark timing (retarded) over ideal, you could run water injection to pick up the lost efficiency is one example.

So really here you would have to be running a pretty extreme NA set up for this to be pracatical at all? In which case would it even be worth it ?? lol. My future plan is to run a NA 20B (Rx8 rotors/ported/motec/full exhaust).

My main reasons behind the build are at this point because i wanted to be able to have some more "fun" whp numbers but keep the reliability of the NA platform so i didnt have to worry about blowing the damn thing up. And also because the 20B is just a cool build you dont see everyday. Ive seen my friends dump what we thought were good turbo builds, but apparently from all ive seen, from this build and the info you've provided in other threads, my fear of the turbo game is really an unnecessary one :dunno:.

If it was easy dumb cunts like BDC could do it. Fact is it is not, but if you are willing to learn from real engineers like Sir Harry Ricardo & Frank Walker (to name but two Water Injection pioneers) then you too can make a stock standard rotary reliable.

I have invested allot of my time and money over 2 decades to learn all of this myself, with no ones help, but my own tenacity and education to fall back on to make my own rotary turbo that is affordable, powerful, and reliable. Anyone can go and replicate the result, I'll even tell them openly how to do it as well :) you cant ask for more than that :)

I am a turbo fanatic and devote, they are NOT simple when run in street trim on normal petrol, but if you know the key to the performance formula it is nothing short of a revelation as to just how "easy" or "basic" the whole set up can be, or what takes it to work in reality V's and internet posting or empty promise that others promise. My idea is simple, build it prove it, tell people how you do it........ I've done all of that with RICESP, its a Mazda rotary 13B Turbo stock engine and its faster than lots of iconic supercars, twice as much power as a standard car, not proved by one off measures or fake doctored "performance measures" but real comparisons of like specification vehicles on common road platforms.

You should not be scared at all, but it will take for some a quantum leap back into the 1930's to see what the real pioneers discovered, he who does not learn from history is bound to repeat the same mistakes over and over ;)

Well then :) Maybe ill reconsider my uber expensive 20B plan for a stock s5 13BT or an 13B-RE and water inject ;)

I have no shortage of ca$h or ability to make whatever I want and I can only tell you the rocket ship performance of my 13B just puts the 3 rotor into insignificance, especially in a normal RX7 chassis. It's hard to convey to people, the best thing I do is just take people for a drive! and when you see them (some seasoned car people) who want to rip off the door trim handles or are telling you to slow down that they have had enough............ it just speaks volumes more than any Race Logic VBOX3i figures I can post up.

I dreamed of performance on tap like what I have now, it really does just impress you each time you drive it, and unlike people with trailer queens jungle juice mad max fuel drum carrying slaves its totally on tap, any time, any place. And we are talking road car, with a catalyst, quiet, efficient, can drive long distances and not go broke filling it up, and its a rotary :) More people need to get on it, I don't care if they use my system or my friends on Aquamist where I share my ideas and enthusiasm, its all about the power of water injection on knock limited engine platforms, and ALL regardless of type of fuel are knock limited, does not matter if its a Reno racer at 75psi running a Supercharged merlin on 150 octane or a Rice Racing running on 87 octane :) we all exploit the power of H2O!

Correct me if I'm wrong Pete but are you running straight water or a 50/50mix with meth?

Henri

I run BOTH.

During the last 3 years I have come up with a system and tune up that is interchangeable between WM50 and Water, this covers all operators I have across the world who run in all weather conditions, in varying venues (certain rules) and have all types of set ups (some that tolerate water) and others that do not. Thus I was testing on "typical" inductive ignition and my own SUPER IGNITION systems.

If you look at my web page (under water injection) you will see I have made and engineered cars that make prodigious horsepower along with unrivaled reliability on both specifications.

Are you Ohlins coilovers decent for street use?

I'm surprised to hear that you've gone away from NRS. My current engine is a series 5 stock standard, only minor casting flash removed from the intake ports. Rebuilt by myself all OEM mazda components. Great powerband, more then 2 years of abuse and road trips at 350+rwhp, 121+mph trap speeds in the 1/4, nearly 50,000kms of use......but I'm swapping in an REW that I will be using NRS seals with.

Have you changed due to some issue with the seals or to prove the durability of the OE components? From my findings the OEM items need not to be proven, but I'm moving to NRS to facilitate a longer overall lifespan of the engine at elevated power.....bad move?