And yes.... still looks good. Did you get a chance to measure to see if the TiAL BOV will fit?

Why, because of engine movement?
That damper is jacked up so needs to go anyway, but I'm not real excited about the idea of hard mounting the engine.

Haven't really mapped it out, but it's not looking good. The existing Greddy RS is 3.5" tall from the flange and it is practically hitting the shock tower. With the dimensions you gave me the TiAL is 3.35" without the fitting. All the fittings I have found are .5" tall. I just don't think it will work in that location.

Yes, because of engine movement. You can grab some Energy Suspension sway bar end link bushing, or some generic bushings that you could use to isolate it. It will keep the axial rotation to a serious minimum while not creating additions to NVH

I'll have to look at the pics again, but IIRC the TiAL BOV can be sent pretty far into the elbow.

Or just sack up, weld the elbow shut, and put the TiAL on the charge pipe.

Or just get an EFR since it has the BOV built in. But of course I'm biased LOL

You seem to be under the impression that the damper was soft and highly compliant. It was not. I'll look into the sway bar bushings.

Yes I saw that, but it's still pretty tall.

Has nothing to do with my sack, I don't think a frankenstein patch will look good. I'd buy a new non flanged elbow if I was moving the BOV.

Hmm re-do turbo manifold, hardlines, hot side charge pipe, or move a BOV... Tough call :rofl:

^:smilielol5:

Frankenstein patch wouldn't be seen though. After its welded grind it down, sand it, do the same to the inside, then we Powdercoat it, never seen.... Or yeah, but a new elbow works work.
Remember my elbow started off as the same as yours, lots of cutting and welding etc. Took a while but it looks like a cast piece again

I know! Totally worth it bro. LOL

Small update.

Made a AST filler neck.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L...208_201015.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s...208_201047.jpg

Also got in some parts to start on my exhaust.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...208_212738.jpg

Nice. Did you cut the flange for the AST from plate or cut it off the old tstat housing?

Cut it off the old thermostat housing, then milled it flat with an end mill in my drill press. Mostly out of curiosity to see how terrifying it would be to do light mill work on the drill press. Not as bad as I anticipated. Not good for any sort of useable accuracy, but functional for general material removal.

Make me one tonight and overnight it. Need to builds one for that FD in my annex :smilielol5:

I know you're joking, but I have extra tube. You would just have to get the AN fittings, tstat flange, and rad fill if you want?

LOL, not going AN this time around and already ordered the 32mm rad full to use the phaggot greedy stock sized rad cap. Will cut it out of 1/2" plate I've got.

So you have a provision for the stock low coolant sensor?

Haven't added a bung yet. You know what threads it uses?

I'll tell you this weekend when I weld on a flat plate and tap it ;) Crush washer seal, not NPT