Nothing......

not even the sweet carbon fiber bumper caps?

Brian has em on his FC. I am down to a couple main parts for the 2 and nothing else.:o10:

BRIAN GIVE ME THOSE BUMPER CAPS!!!!:willy_nilly:

:smilielol5:

I just made a very large list of parts that go under the car..... mmmmmmm........

Is there a specific type of grease you guys use to pack bearings. Or do you just whatever is on the shelf at Aut-O'Reilyzone?

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/

Ransom... are you the only on ever on this forum anymore haha?

Yes I do live here. :rofl:

You're creepin me out dude.. creepin me ooooooooooooooot......:ugh2::uhh::squint:

I am always creepin. :lol:

well at least you're creepin with help for me haha

You're asking for advice about bearing grease on a rotary forum? I don't think anybody's car has ever run long enough to worry about the bearings. :suspect:

Mobil1 synth...
Available almost anywhere - WalMart, O'Reilly's, etc.

If you're paranoid, Redline...

:D


-Ted

Ahem.... How many front wheel bearing problems have I had? Fighting them to years because of those brakes.
I've narrowed down my next try to the amsoil, redline, and motul... Just need to remember which one of the three was the better and that's what I'll try... Along with some new and improved ducting

Sorry to get this off-topic, but can I ask what kinda problems are you running into?

The Japan guys kill the front bearings in a year / season with the stock, aluminum hubs.
This is why there are all-steel hubs available, which extends their life to up to 3 years / seasons.

This is the hardcore racing FC's...


-Ted

Pretty sure Mazda didn't design their spindles and bearings to be thrown into corners at 150mph. Grease isn't going to help very much. Ever heard of such a thing as an upgrade? :suspect:

What are the fast race car guys running at the track? Besides I haven't seen you post anything for him stating what doesn't work and why.

Thank you.

Bearings are overheating and the grease is failing which is leading to the bearings breaking apart and seizing... not fun when setting up for a turn @ 90mph.....

I only started running into this problem when I upgraded the brakes to a two piece rotor. My theory is not enough cooling and the heat is being transferred through the AL hat to the bearings and fucking shit up in a hurry.

Carbotech race pads aren't helping either....

Where might one find these steel hubs you speak of :D

I will cut you.

It's actually happening on the street as well... then again... we all know how I drive soooooo yeah.... It will also happen during a 20 minutes session @ LRP.... but hauling the car from 150+ to 60 every 63 seconds with a few other braking zones in between isn't helping. I would venture that if I put the stock brakes back on the problem would go away, but times would be slower for obvious reasons. The ITS guys don't have this problem and they're putting down similar times as I am...

I will cut you DEEP!

Cheapo grease doesn't work, can't handle the heat. The fast guys at the track in ITS are running stock brakes with upgraded pads, all they're allowed to do. The other classes have destroyed the front ends of the cars to get ducting to the brakes. This is what one of my winter projects is. Move the oil coolers back to just infront of the of the wheel wells and duct them from the front bumper. Fabricate a Y in the ducting to feed the oil coolers and the brakes.
Before I had some Naca ducts in the belly pan... my thought was that being a bit of a high pressure zone... or so I thought, it would feed the brakes... I'm not so sure it is.... so the front of the front bumper we all know is.... we'll see what happens next year... car is officially off the street as of Midnight tonight :(

Ford

Yeah, it's a combination of the heat transfer from the aluminum, and the warpage from the heat cycling...


I just remembered it's from KSP Engineering.
If you got access to YJA, they sell them there.
About US$400 right now...
http://page19.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/j...ion/x366929734

I would think you would have access to resources to get someone with CNC to do them in the states?


-Ted

Yerp, I know, which is why I need to really duct the brakes and change out the grease to something that doesn't suck and see what happens....

Sweet!!!!! I may have to take a peek at these....

I'm having a spat with my machinist right now :rofl: He still owes me 12 GM MAP sensor mounts that I bought and paid for in February.... I'm more than annoyed with him right now....

Im in one of those weird moods.. where i want to sell my FC... and get an FD... that runs of course.. -_-

so i finally decided to get the hub off. Here it is in all its glory. Im gonna have to replace the ball joints and pretty much everything else that connects there too. I can't believe how expensive just the steering rack boots are... ugh:07:

anyway. am i gonna have to have someone with a hydraulic press, press in the ball joints or can i muscle them into the new hub.

The 5 bolt hubs i have seem to rotate pretty smoothly... I think i made that word up :suspect:.... so should i for go replacing the bearings in there?

I think they have around 130k on em if I remember correctly..:suspect:

I would run them. Get em out on the highway or traveling and check for hot lugs etc. Its not to hard to tear it all down.

Ya I'm not super worried about the bearings in there I guess for now. I just have to take off the dust cap to get to all of it right?

No if they are bad they will heat the lugnuts enough to burn yer fingers.

To change the bearing you will have to Notch as per Mazdatrix instuctions.

I need cheap 5 lug wheels...

If you're passing through the middle of Kansas I have a set of ratty old sawblades off an 87 GXL you can have for free. Cheap enough?

Shipping them wouldn't be worth it, they're not very nice, but they are cheap.

Cheap enough yes haha. but I don't find myself in Kansas often. Im not particularly worried about how nice they are. I just need something cheap for using after i swap my hubs. Im looking on the internets for steel wheels at the moment

I actually have a set of 5-star wheels with good tires if you're seriously interested.... last time I had to ship a set of wheels/tires it was like $30 each... lemme know if you want pics...

215/40/17 I THINK... I have a ton of pics from when they were on ebizzle and craigslooser...

ya man post some pics. I just need a set for the hub swap like i said. I don't have any 5 lug wheels. I though i had some at my parents place but they say they aren't there... :suspect:

On another note... does anyone make an aftermarket solution to the front ball joints that connect to the hub? I need to replace my sad factory ones.

One of the folks in St. Louis is working on some. He posted this on the STL RX Club facebook page. It sounds like they're still trying to work out the bugs with manufacturing and testing. It looks like it uses a common press-in ball joint.

https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...61&oe=552944FC
https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...61&oe=552944FC

Stu Kelly

Meeting Monday for a partnership with a new CNC shop to help bring these joints to you all sooner. Our original CNC shop was a relationship with broken promises, so I apologize to all who were waiting for these products. Thank you for your support and patience, sorry this has taken so long.
Once we have sets of each version made we will be taking applications for testers to get their hands on these before anyone else. We will announce when testing will start and more info on how to become a tester. Lets plan on this announcement for the end of January early February

We will be offering three versions of these joints and each version will help to correct roll center.

These ball joints are for the Series 4 Rx7 FC but can be used on Series 5 control arm with some cutting and drilling.

The pricing of these joints will be around $300 and will include new ball joints, mounting bolts, and have the ball joints already pressed in plug and play style.

Here are the details of each version.

Version 1 will have slots allowing for incremental extensions up to 1.5" fully extended.

Version 2 will have fixed holes for stock positioning and 1.5" extended positioning.

Version 3 (for an additional price) will be fixed holes at any extension amount you would like up to 2.0" extended. For example a joint extended approx 1.675" from factory.

The picture is of Version 1 with slots and Version 2 with stock 1.5" extended holes.

Those look pretty nice. I missing why i would need to extend them though?

I think that part is mainly for the drifter crowd to get lots of negative camber. If they accept stock positioning they should work. I believe MazdaTrix also sells the stock replacement arms with the ball joints already pressed in.

they do indeed.. for $77 a side. Ill probably be ordering them soon. I need to clean up the hubs first too. I wanna get all the front end stuff taken care of while i have the front of the car up on stands.

Oh my oh my..... sexy....

However... looking at Gunny here... how would those affect roll center... I'm failing to see that...

Bah... are they replaceable after the fact?

Wait.... wut? I'm not seeing those... I'm just seeing the replacement ball joints...

Im confused...:dunno: what are you asking me?

http://www.mazdatrix.com/hsteer2.htm

this is what I'm talking about.