TPS would not cause it to stall out like that. AFM would though.... as would bad plugs.

guess ill go get MAF cleaner and plugs then!

MAF cleaner will do nothing for an AFM. AFM is just a door and the sensor measures resistance and figures how far open it is to calc airflow.

Oh wait.... S5 right?

S5 is still an AFM; the guts of it still uses a variable resistor. Instead of a hinged flapper door like the S4's use to change the resistance with airflow, the S5's use a sliding cone to do the same thing. S4 & S5 AFMs are not interchangeable; different electrical resistance vs. airflow curves and connector pin outs.

Yes S5.

So... I have the VDI open now. I thought that would help. Doesn't seem to have done anything for me. I just did a little looking around on the other forum and found out that the VDI doesn't have to be open all the time anyway.


The only other thing I found is that there is a vacuum nipple for the injectors that is supposed to help with atomization. I can't recall if I have that connected to a vac source or not though but im not sure that would cause my issues.

I'm truly at a loss now.

Getting closer. Adjusted the throttle cable. That helped some. It will actually run a little with out my foot on it but still dies after a few seconds.

Slow going but i replaced plugs and wires last night. Seemed to help a bit but still no dice. AFM next? Coils?

We have some coils we can swap in. Also, unhook the AFM from the airbox and have someone push the cone in a little when you start the car. If that makes a drastic difference, we might have found a winner. I think you can also unplug it altogether, and if it idles, but doesn't rev, it's also bad.

Great suggestion, but he doesn't even need to go that far. Just remove the airbox lid, remove panel filter (assuming still all stock airbox & filter). Then he can reach in with a finger & move the AFM cone.

You don't want to move it all that much - if you push it too far in, the car should go pig rich & stall if it's idling.

An S5 won't run with the AFM unplugged; not sure if it will even start that way.

Yeah its all stock. Looks like ill need some extra hands..... if you know what I mean.

If that is left open, it'll cause a vac leak which could be the problem

Not to be the bearer of bad news but after seeing those plugs, it's time for a compression test.

its there isn't a hole in the manifold. I was trying to wire the actuator open and the retainer came off so the actuator isn't there anymore. I was told it needed to be in the open position.



So the plugs had to have been like that when I drove the car home. And it was running great before emissions removal... so I guess im not understanding why compression would be bad?

I wasn't referring to the VDI crap, I was referring to the airbleed for the injectors.

It looks to me like the electrode broke off. I would pull the plugs and do a quickie audible comp test

Ah ok. Well I guess I need to take it all apart again then.


The thought crossed my mind that it broke off. But after looking at it some more it doesn't really look broken. No jagged edges or anything. When I do an audible comp test what should it sound like?