On my first assembly I actually just shaved down that spacer. I had to replace the front rotor and housing on my first rebuild. I now have a second spacer from an N/A engine I tore down. If I do have the iron lapped or replace it; hopefully one of those spacers has the correct end play.

For the record shaving down that spacer was a PITA and took forever, but I didn't want to wait a week for shipping to get my engine together. What I did after I saw end play was out of spec was take apart the front stack. Sand down the spacer and constantly was checking with my micrometer to make sure I had it evenly shaved. I believe I checked on either 6 or 8 pts around the spacer. So I'd take some material off, assemble the front stack, check endplay with my dial indicator and repeat the whole process till end play was within spec.

This is a noob question, but what are the circled rings on the irons called?http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...58739674_o.jpg

Those of course need to be removed for lapping and then I assume simply pressed back in after lapping. I talked to the machine shop about doing the lapping, but I don't think they really want to do the work. Owner said (what I already knew) that those would need to come out so the iron can lay flat for the lapping....but didn't offer or say "we can pull those for you" Do they come as easily as getting some Vice Grips and working them loose?

I didn't even ask the machine shop costs on having the iron lapped cause instinct tells me that if I can find a replacement that is in spec that is going to be the best moneys spent. I left the shop thinking, "It's an option, but not the best options...I'll find a used iron." Problem is that irons and housings are getting very hard to find. I suspect that with 20 yr old parts that rotary shops are buying up the parts and holding them. The flooding in Japan certainly doesn't help matters.

If I do have 0.001 lapped, should I also be re-nitrating? I wouldn't think I'd have to. That surface is 0.004 thick which still leaves me 0.003 of material.

I've decided to use my front iron. I simply need to make a list of the small parts I need that I hadn't already ordered and get them on their way.

I decided to replace my flywheel with one VRRacing was selling and also replaced my exhaust manifold. Waiting for both those parts to arrive.

While making what I hope is my final order of parts....Should I worry about replacing the bearing plate? My instinct is no, that the thrust bearing is riding on a film of oil between the bearing plate and the bearing.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...65251253_o.jpg

Those are dowels.
Yes, those are press-fit into the (front) iron.
They can be removed, if need be.
They are used to locate the front oil cover into the proper position for installation.
They don't take very much stress.


-Ted

Wow, that looks like "galling" to me!
Unless the pic looks worse that it is, I would replace it.
Does any of it drag on your fingernail?
If it does, you need to replace it!

On the other side...
I would inspect the Torrington bearing that was in contact with this plate!
I would bet some of the needle bearings are scored?
I would recommend to replace that Torrington bearing too.
At the same time, inspect the other Torrington bearing too...
It's not supposed to look like that unless we're talking really high mileage, high power, and / or lack of oil lubrication?


-Ted

It does look worse in the pic than it is. There is one spot where I can catch my nail. Unless it went to scrap, I do have another plate from an N/A engine I toredown, or I have a friend who has one. Replacing it won't be an issue.

For what it's worth and IIRC that is how the plate look on the original teardown and rebuild. The engine is a JDM but did not appear to be high power. It had factory turbo, factory fuel injectors. That wear is on the underside/engine side of the plate and I'll certainly look over the bearing. I need to replace the top/cover-side bearing as I damaged it during dissasembly. Atkins sells them as a pair. I was going to call Dan and ask him to sell me only one because all the parts have about 2k miles on them.

One thing I'm thinking of while ordering parts is doing some porting. I would like to do at least some exhaust porting and maybe get templates. I have some ruined housings and N/A irons I can practice on.

i agree with Ted. replace the plate.

Yep, it's being replaced. My spare apparently went to scrap but a friend is mailing me one.

I have all my parts collected minus a flywheel and ready to put it all together. I'm a lil dissapointed that Pineapple Racing's videos are down. Those were very helpful in spec'ing and prepping for assembly.


My flywheel on first assembly only had 1-2 cracks on it so I had it turned and used it. 2k miles later the flywheel now has cracks all over it..maybe 8 or so. Flywheel warping? I had an n370flywheel purchased but something happened in shipping, so I need to source another one. As a precaution, if needed, I bought a S5 rear counterweight, it hasn't arrived yet. It may end up being mated up with light flywheel. Depending on what I find available used.

I've replaced the exhaust manifold with a minty fresh manifold. Not a crack in sight. Though I may still want to try my hand at welding a tubular manifold this summer....if the instructor for my class will allow me to use class space and tools.

Damn Jeff you have yet to catch a break on this rebuild/build at all.

Tell me bout it brotha!! I understand that in every large project you need to plan for the unexpected.....but damn!!

Oh one tool I bought so that I'm sure my coolant seals are intact. Atkins coolant seal tester!!!

Sooo the saga continues. I haven't sourced a flywheel yet, but I figure I can get the engine assembled and at least get the garage organized. I was doing final cleaning and organizing to do the rebuild this week. And I find a nice little nick in my rear stat gear bearing!! I mean wtf? There is no damage on the eshaft so I don't know what or how..but it's there.

I've got a spare gear from the N/A engine and the bearing looks pretty alright. There is no copper showing. But I may spend for the new one. Seems a pity to have the front one new and the rear one used.

Disregard the post. It was a dumb question I answered by searching...