Bearing replaced. I bought an automatic rear counterweight in prep for getting an ACT Streetlite flywheel.

I have two questions about my rear counterweight

I measure the distance between my fingers to confirm that it is a S5 rear counterweight?
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...61950212_o.jpg
S5 = 12.52 to 12.85 mm
S4 = 13.23 to 13.92 mm

I believe that this wear is fine, but need to make sure
http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...27278758_o.jpg

There's no real way to discern the difference between the two?
In fact, I heard a rumor that if you order a new counterweight from Mazda, the part is identical for all FC years and the part #'s are identical - the new counterweights are NOT drilled, and you had to get them balanced yourself???
As a general rule for the counterweights - the S5 had more holes drilled in them versus the S4.
I weighted them once, and the difference was 0.2 lbs., which was the increment on my 100lbs. max digital scale. :(
So I think the difference will be a matter of ounces and even down to grams...?


Is that a groove (black line) in the counterweight???
I have NEVER seen a groove worn into the metal like that in my life.
Did you get an explanation for the groove?
That might wreck the rear oil seal?


-Ted

Not so much a groove, it's shiny from wear...if you run your finger over it you can barely feel it. I do not know the history on it other than it came out of a 90. It's an eBay purchase, so I may not get a response to questions.

Since concerns have been raised, it was also painted, which I planned on lightly sanding off, but it has a small notch in it also. Is that small ding enough to cause balance issues?
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...79215451_o.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...75869256_o.jpg


I assume that taking it to a machine shop would then affect clearance between seal and counterweight?

Hmmm...my vision was pretty bad last night due to a horrible few days at work, so you have to excuse me a bit.
I just saw that black line and went *WHAT?*.
So the black line is caused by paint?
There should be no other reason why such a black line be on that part of the counterweight due to normal use.

I'm also a little bit worried about you stating: "if you run your finger over it you can barely feel it."
It's in constant contact with a silicone oil seal that's rotating.
It it were a perfect world, that area should be smooth.
A slight imperfection could easily destroy the oil seal in short order. :(


That ding doesn't look that bad.
There are vendors that offer (re)balancing services if you're that worried.


You can talk to the machine shop and ask them for their advice.
Explain the situation, and they should be able to give you an answer?
A competent machine should know proper clearances for this application with this type of seal...


-Ted

Sorry about the confusion, the whole flat side of the weight had been painted (poorly) in silver.

The line is actually a shinny ring. It doesn't make a groove, just a different texture. I posted pics on "the other" forum and a couple of experienced members pretty much said "no big whoop", that it's normal wear.

I contacted the seller and was of course told, "I assure you it works perfectly, I was using it on my engine with no issues"

The seller is an idiot for painting that part in the first place...
I would try and strip away the paint before installing.
Even paint chips that can possible flake away can chew up the rear oil seal.
You don't want to be replacing just that seal if it does fail. :(


-Ted

Yeah the plan is to strip the paint off.

I wish there was one voice of opinions spoken about that ring on the counterweight. It makes me nervous thinking about the nightmare a failed rear main would cause me.

Other than choosing the flywheel the engine is ready to be assembled. I'll probably assemble it the week after this week. I'm in school for a 2nd degree and midterms are this coming week.

Disregard this post. I am at times an idiot. My questions were answered...

Want some opinions on the pittiing on these housings.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...311_133221.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...311_131527.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...311_131356.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...311_131339.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...311_131317.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...311_130657.jpg

Update:

I used JB Weld on the suspect area just to be sure...sanded it down of course. Engine is assembled up to oil pump, front stack and cover.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...61900690_o.jpg

I have class part of tomorrow but I'll finish up the meat of the engine tomorrow. One thing I don't remember and I know I've asked in the past. When setting play on the front stack do I want the flywheel on with the nut tightened down to spec?

The problem with using any kinda epoxy in that kinda environment is:
1) heat cycling will cause the epoxy to loosen or even break up,
2) Additional exposure to coolant and / or combustion gases can only hurt.

I've used housing like that, and Hylomar takes care of any worries of sealing.


Doesn't matter...
If fact, it'll make it harder to do the end play procedure with more weight on the e-shaft.
The only thing that matters is that the "front stack" is complete and torqued down to spec.
This includes everything under the front oil cover + front pulley boss + front eccentric shaft bolt torqued to spec.


-Ted

a MBC set at 0 doesn't vent anything, it actually allows all pressure to get to the wastegate, when raising boost with it it will vent slightly to lower the pressure opening the wastegate.

i would get a lower temp thermostat, check the water pump, blow any crap out of the radiator core and check for obstructions. if all else fails check to see if the cooling system is overpressurizing.

edit: apparently it didn't go to the last page so nevermind.

Core of the engine is assembled
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...20059031_o.jpg

I bought a coolant seal pressure tester, used it and we are good on the coolant seal front.

Endplay on the front stack was borderline .028-.031ish so I used a different K spacer which I had to sand down a touch. Final endplay on the swapped and sanded K spacer is .002.

Outside of the actually install on the engine, the hardest part is going to be remember/figuring out my vacuum routing. I'm hoping to have the engine back in the car over the weekend, but that might a little ambitious as I'm a little backed up on schoolwork.

i would also recommend ditching that "engine destroyer" plastic water pump neck and install an aluminum one.

Excellent point on the MBC.

I believe I sorted out the cooling problem. I did not have my Taurus efan wired correctly. But I'm curious what temp thermostat you'd suggest. I have a 195 on thermoswitch for my efan. Moving my thermostat further away would save my thermostat and efan fighting each other.

I've never heard it called that. Other than a tendency for the plastic one to harden/crack/fail, what else should I know? For the record, I have a spare plastic one so I doubt I'd spring for the $100 aluminum one from Mazdatrix till I need it.