Looks awesome so far! If I may make a suggestion though.... use a few studs per side on the framerail supported internally by some rather stout pipe and so that your new k-frame :suspect: can be removeable and or modifiable outside of the car.... This would be my suggestion... I always like it when things can unbolt or be removed... then again I'm always breaking shit and taking shit apart.... so I always try to incorporate into my designs making things easily removeable. My intercooler setup for example... as intricate as it is, there's 10 bolts and the entire setup, 85% of the ducting and both heat exchangers drop right out....

That is what the plan was, but it's starting to piss me off to the point where I'm getting really sick of dicking around with it. I already have the through holes and crush tubes in the rails to bolt it in. That's going to require some more mods since I screwed up on the mounting surface. You're right though, I should just quit whining and do it.

I think I need to walk away from it for a little bit before I break out the BFH and torch. :66:

Still haven't given up. I will out stubborn this thing yet.

I've been working a lot of hours for harvest, but have had a little time to get a few things done.

I did get the subframe fitted and bolted in with full adjustment as I had originally planned. I just needed Brian to kick me in the butt over it when I had reached saturation level on disgust.

Got the other lower arm modified to bolt the shock/strut near the ball joint.

Changed the strut over to accept the spring seat and lower heim joint.

Reassembled everything and dropped the car back on to it own springs. Finally it's sitting back on the ground without the use of jack stands!

I also installed the steering rack to ensure that it still fit. It did and the bump steer angles look a lot better than they did.

Fitted the strut/shock tops and got them welded in. The hood even shuts! That wasn't guaranteed, as the top of the shock adjusters was going to be close. I have clearance, not much clearance, but clearance nonetheless.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5598/...3453d000f1.jpgshock tops by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2942/...51cb0ab1d6.jpghood closed by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

I have to work out something to lock the tops down a little better. I'm leery that it may come loose with only three bolts holding them, even though this was how the kit was set up. I did up the bolts from 5/16" to 1/2", but would be more comfortable if I can get at least two or three more bolts holding them.

It's getting there ... slowly ... but getting there.

Looking good Gunny.

6 months to go....

Grrr... you would have to bring that up. My PITA is competing with the Cosmo for "most unlikely to ever make a DGRR" honors. :suspect:

:beatdeadhorse5:Not a whole lot to report, but I figured that I would post a few pictures so nobody would think it has whooped my butt yet.

Engine and transmission has been in and out about a dozen times. Had to be done to get the fit right and do the necessary clearancing on the subframe. I'm dropping the engine down and back 2 to 3 inches from the original position.


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7543/...a701a84a47.jpgengine mounting plate by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Fabricated a front mounting plate using 1/4" plate and spherical ball mounts. It will be mounted to tabs welded to the frame so I can adjust the position of the lower subframe without affecting the engine placement.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/...e97f09c9_n.jpgengine mounting joints by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

These fit inside the tube portions on the ends of the mounting plate with the retaining rings keeping them from moving. The spherical mounts will effectively be solid mounts but still allow movement to drop the engine back to get at the transmission bolts, etc. Hopefully it will also keep anything from binding up and breaking.

The exhaust header fit, but required some clearancing (you can kind of see where I've done some grinding on the top picture where the header is closest to the subframe). I wanted to leave enough air gap so I don't melt the urethane bushings out of the inside lower control arm mounts.

Between working and all the fiddling necessary it doesn't seem to be making a lot of progress. I'll keep plugging away at it.

Countdown to DGRR. :banghead:

Hey now, I have a running rotary.

Yes you do. You did have a unique excuse for why it wasn't running for that amount of time. Fact can be stranger (and far more painful) than fiction at times. :lol:

:rofl: It runs now. That is all that matters. :rofl:

finished product.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7515/...631246c4_z.jpgengine mounting plate - finished by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

I went with urethane bushings instead of the spherical mounts because I was worried about them transmitting too much vibration and noise.

noice!

Thanks Ransom.

No Problemo!


I am thinking of doing about the same thing. Except Stock 13B mount not front cover mount.

If you are worried about noise then just stay away from solid mounts. Dude here runs solid motor and trans mounts and its pretty much racecar loud with the drivetrain. Its weird because it is loud but not a lot of vibration with interior kinda strange.

I don't mind some noise, but it is primarily a street car. The urethane should work out a little better. I do want good stability without having to resort to extra engine torque bars. I'm going to be pressed enough on room when I try to fit a turbo and associated hardware in there.

that's lot of work man. looking good.