I went with the 1.7 at first, and it was fine, but I wanted a little more control and its only $350 to upgrade. I've been able to add fuel and (subtract fuel for idle) and it idles and runs great. turnaround is very fast. My next upgrade is a BNR stg1 (mainly for the ported wastegate). a pull from low rpm in 4th creeps to 14psi, which is where the map on the stock ecu stops. In the stage2, I actually have the injectors go almost full open if it sees 14psi.

I didn't change any pins anywhere... though I'm not running a knock sensor or boost control solenoid. All the others match up to their respective turbo pins.

I'm not running a knock sensor either and will be loosing the boost solenoid.

I might actually use them on my next build. It was still fresh in my mind. LOL

You call yourself the Newbie, but you have done more than most people on this forum.

Congrats to you.

That is a nice ride / project.

I'm curious, did you come across the same info about needing to shave the 13B eccentric shaft to use with RX8 gears?

Thanks man, much appreciated. I've been around rotaries for some time. My father bought an FB new when I was barely young enough to remember. From the early 80s on my father and I have owned 5 RX's between us. Four of those 5 have been verts.

This is my first rebuild so I'm trying to be as thorough as possible on the whole thing. I have a disturbing photo gallery of the engine removal and teardown. I bagged and tagged every nut and bolt. I measured step wear, warping and such on the irons.

What I need to decide is what direction the body of the car is going to go. I need to decide whether to buy my father's black vert and put my drivetrain in it or keep my red vert. I'm a softy for black verts and it's kind of a toss up over which work is most worth the effort. Swapping rear subframes so my LSD will be on the black vert...as well as my stereo system, alarm, etc...or keep the red vert and eventaully painting it black.

Quick update...the rebuild is moving forward. I want to get as much done as possible before cold weather hits.

I bought a replacement housing, it's on it's way to me. Low mile JDM housing that from the pics look to be in as good shape as my good housing.

Now I have to decide on RA seals or Atkins. I've got an overview of all the available seals that covers all the major suppliers. I'd love to hear feedback from people using RA, Atkins or even Goopy. Even better advice would be from people who used the seals then toredown the engine.

My concern with RA is about chatter marks and the reputation I've heard from them wearing the housings. Has anyone used them and torn down the engine they were in?

Another update

The housing I bought was junk so I'm working out a refund. The seller is working with me, but I'm more than a little pissed that his description was not close to reality. What really worries me is that this thing would be put up for sale and that someone might use it.

I might have a deal in the works for a housing from Japan. The pics look like it's in as good of shape as my good housing.

Now that I have more down time waiting I"m thinking of repainting my irons. While the black duracell theme was kinda fun at first I can see it growing on me...in a bad way. I'm thinking of simply doing an aluminum, I brought home some VHT "Titanium Blue Silver" but I may do simple aluminum. At least with aluminum when it gets chipped and starts flaking it won't show up as much.

One question about repainting. Can I simply cover the clear coat with self-etching primer or should I rough up the paint surface before? For repainting I'm going to do like the first color. I'll prime, paint and clear coat.

I'll get some pics of the good internal engine parts soon.

Got my answer about self-etching primer from a friend who does body work. etching primer is designed to bond to bare metal, not paint. Guess I have to repaint the hard way...

Here is my good housing
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...7_248950_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2319142_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4374232_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...0_811549_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5283132_n.jpg

Question about my flywheel...will resurfacing my flywheel remove that? How much of an issue is that going to be?
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8252693_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6322551_n.jpg

I bought this rotor and after cleaning it found this...at first I didn't notice it. Can I use this rotor? What about flipping it around for the other housing so that the momentum of the engine will always be pushing the seal away from that damaged area?


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6691231_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...4_577153_n.jpg

This is my other rotor, the one I damaged when I detonated...it almost seems to be in better shape than the one I bought
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4587655_n.jpg

[QUOTE=JustJeff;131896]Question about my flywheel...will resurfacing my flywheel remove that? How much of an issue is that going to be?
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8252693_n.jpg

Talked to a machine shop, it's not ideal obviously but the crack is only on the surface. I'll probably be using it...after resurfacing, unless I find a good deal on a flywheel.

So I decided to repaint my front cover. Was originally going to scuff up the paint some, reprime, paint, clearcoat. Got annoyed with all the nooks and crannies I was having a hard time reaching. So I bought some airplane paint remover and have spent the last week trying to get the gook out of nooks and crannies. Never again will I do that!!

I've officially given up and will be taking it to get it sandblasted. Wish I had simply stuck to scuffing up the paint. I doubt missing the nooks and crannies would have mattered. But the paint partially pulled off the metal will cause problems.

Update!!

Housing arrived today from Jland. Thank you to 87GTR from 7club for hooking me up. His price was VERY reasonable. I got a S5 housing that is simply in gorgeous shape. I also bought an InfiniIV strut bar from him. And as a bonus perk, he tossed in some snacks from Japan!!

I'll get it cleaned up and post some pics in the next couple days.

Those rotors are still very much usable. If you guage the Clearance between the apex seal slot and apex and would like it tighter we offer a oversize apex seals. Its still categorized as a 2MM seal but .003 thicker to make up for high millage slop or damaged rotor edges.
http://www.goopyperformance.com/
http://wljphotography.com/index.html