has it overheated since you got rid of the air bubbles via the FSM method (leave cap off and turn the car on)?

Nope! I drove it about 5 miles, and then went home, no issues.


Just as a note: The car did NOT "over" heat when this initially happened. The gauge was up there, but it wasnt all the way up, or "pegged" in the H... I try to pay attenntion to my car. Also, I havent driven it further because as I said, the coolant is crap, and I am flushing it tomorrow.

sweet. Good luck.

what thing from atkins? shim it? are we talking about the same thing?

Umm, well I heard "Thermowax" and that made me think of the oil pellet thing in the center of the ecentric shaft that fails and causes low oil pressure.... I am confused as well.

There are many "thermowax" devices on the engine...

There is the front eccentric thermowax pellet which allows oil to flow through the eccentric shaft (and rotors).
There's the thermowax on the throttle body which controls the cold-start fast idle.
There's the thermowax pellet in the oil cooler which allows oil to bypass the oil cooler core.

When talking about COOLANT, there's only one thermowax on the throttle body.


-Ted

Thanks Ted! now I got it! I had no clue about the one on the TB!

Update on the thread: I got replacement hoses, thermostat, and radiator cap, as well as really good Mercedes coolant, it's all ready to put in, except for the fact that I cant quite get to the block drain plug to drain the rest of the coolant out... I think I will need to take out the AC compressor to make the job easier.

My radiator had quite a bit of CRAP logged in there. I sprayed a TON of degreaser, follwed by garden hose, an then power washer. The radiator is pretty much see through right now.

Look at your drivers side engine mount where it bolts to the block. Notice the 3 studs/nuts? Notice the long hex "nut"? Undo the hex nut and you'll drain the coolant out of the block. IIRC that drain is lower then the one behind the P/S pump bracket anyways.

Nice, thats always good ;)

Found it after I took the AC compressor out! But thanks anyway!

My surging idle was solved after a readjustment of the TPS. It may not be your case but I'll throw it out there. It's easy enough (especially on an N/A, no TMIC) to get at and takes 5 minutes to do. Rule it out as the problem if anything.

Well, where can I get one of those meter tester things at? I dont have one, and dont have any $$$ for one atm. Maybe I'll borrow one or something.

Its called a multimeter.

You can get one at Radio Shack, or wherever.

Or you can buy one from--> http://www.banzai-racing.com/

Go under products, FC, TPS tester.

You can build your own LED tester also. I'll try and find the info and make a thread for future reference.

A multi-meter can be found cheap (less than 20 bux) and can go as high as $100+

If you get one from radio shack or what not, get the analog cheap-o type.. a cheap digital multimeter will NOT give you the quick reaction you'll need to check the TPS correctly. The TPS is a potentiometer.. finding opens in the "sweep" will be easier with an analog meter. They are also cheaper.. I think I got mine for 3 bucks. hehe.

Also.. Careful with the pressure washer on the radiator. You can often times do more damage than you think. Same goes for the rest of your engine bay.. Pressure washers tend to introduce more problems.