my buddies stock ported fd on meth inj on 1000/2000 injectors made 440whp at 18psi

And? That tells us nothing. How much meth? Is he using meth as a fuel and taking out injector duty? If so.... that thing has a short lifespan ahead of it.
Plus it sounds like he's using ID injectors, which is good. But.... lets do the math here.

I made 405rwhp with 1750cc/rotor @ 94%... or roughly 1645cc's.... I say roughly because those were "Marren" injectors (re:Siemens and they sucked) Your buddy has 3000cc's per rotor... or just about double what I was using and he made <20% more hp. AND? 2x the fuel, 20% more power. I went to a 725/2000 combo and my duty cycle dropped to something like 70% I dropped base pressure. This year I'm bumping to a 1000/2000 combo and will drop the base pressure even more.

Ditch the walblow
Get ID injectors
Get a real ECU
Get a halleffect trigger
Get a good mani
Get a good tuner
Enjoy many years of happy rotary bliss

what manifold would you suggest? i cant seem to find many for the FC. its all FD manifolds.

Walbros eat more cock than the members in the BAW thread ;)

I personally use a single SARD 280Lt/Hour unit
I run it at 45psi base pressure (no motor running) SARD Type RJ reg
I use a Keene Bell Boost A Pump at 100%
I use ID1000 primaries and ID2000 secondaries
I run everyday 30psi boost
I now run it at 35psi boost pressure
I run RRWEP140 WM50 water injection system
I run Full CDI coil on plug system

The car is a mother fucking rocket ship!!!! :auto:
With 275 Toyo R888 on the back (GG compound) it will destroy the tires in 3rd gear (goes to 100mph in this gear) and does 100-200kmh in high 5 second range.

FYI: Good sports tires wear rating of 180 (v's 100 for race tires) and you are like driving on ICE in the dry with hot rubber....... its fucking insane.

Other tip bits

Garrett T04Z turbo 1.32 A/R
Tial 46mm WG plumbed back
3.5" full exhaust with two SMB mufflers
Exeddy twin plate carbon clutch (D-Core)
Link G4 plug in board (stock ECU case)
Sensystems 3.5bar+ map sensor (works to tested 40psi)
RRWEP140 also works as an Intercooler spray (needed when you go over 20psi boost)
HKS exhaust manifold (modified by me)
Full EGT feedback to ECU
Fuel pressure feedback
Exhaust pressure inlet and outlet (not used as feedback item) but is all logged
BLITZ I-Color Spec R (best boost control & mini logging system, very very handy)
Race Logic traction control, only one that works on a rotary engine in fuel cut "correct" mode
11 heat range spark plugs (daily driven, idle as long as you like, never ever fouled! thanks to CDI & COP system

My engine is a 3+ year old 100% stock standard 13B-REW motor, new out of the box, but never refreshed or modified in any way shape or form.

Car makes over 650bhp, its reliable and fast, no dyno sheet races here, whoever you buy parts off get them to show you some proper logs of a Race Logic system and see how long it takes to accelerate from one speed to another, this is the key to separating fact from fiction :)

Good luck in your build up :biggthumpup:

Very detailed list, thanks Rice Racing. I'm going to look into all that. and your making 650 on 30psi?

I make closer to 600 on 29psi or so

Near 35psi its been hard to measure the power really, its well over 650bhp, super impressive for a stock std 13B :)

The car is stupidly fast :biggthumpup:

The parts list seems over the top for your initial goal, mine too was to just run 20psi maximum (I have a detailed thread on Aquamists site listing the steps over 3 years of testing etc) each stage I jut try more and more power and boost and its amazing, the engine loves it, I love it, to the point where I am out of capacity in many things in the set up ..... but really more power has diminishing returns of gag factor acceleration really.

That 100kmh to 200kmh bench mark is a great easily comparable standard to see just how fast a car is, with little variables to fuck up the result like a drag test can do. If you can crack 6 seconds you have a rocket ship rotary end of story. FWIW a stock RX8 takes about 20 seconds to do that speed increment LOL.

well i looked into that ECU and they only make it for FD's. idk how that'll work in an FC

I don't know what your goals are or your budget, but you can make good/great power even running a piece of shit Microtech ECU (done this many times).

If on the other hand you are a closet geek and want to data log shit and drive lots of accessories off your ECU etc then a wire up version of a Link G4 Extreme could be something you are after.

If you want a quality ECU and want to just stay 2 rotor etc you can buy all kinds of things, from a Motec M2R to a Life Racing F42........ there is so many options its not funny.

Just boils down to what you want to run :conehead: Will you be tuning and setting it up yourself?????

I just read your first post, you can keep your helltech. Ari made a metric gag load of power using one of them, I have tuned many of them and they work o.k.

I have an article of his RX7 I should post up for you, a blow by blow parts list of a 143mph 9 second street driven FD3S using T78 Greddy turbo and all basic parts.

I'll probably install all of it myself, and then trailer it somewhere to have it tuned. depending on my deployment im looking to spend about 6-7 in the upgrades. plus i have parts ON the car i will be selling to add to the pot

Just because Ari made a ton of hp with an e6Krap doesn't mean that it's a decent option given what's available today.
What's his name made about the same power with a stock ECU and AIC, should we go that route as well.

BTW Peter.... spent ~$800 with Jim Howerton this afternoon :suspect: