Damn, the aluminum one is $150!!!

And even the plastic one is $60!!!!

how much did you pay for yours? I thought it would be like $15 or so for a simple plastic part... geez!

I paid $115 for one from the local mazda dealer last year. When mine took a crap I had no other choice since MAzda had it in stock. The mazdatrix one it only cost $125 + shipping but I couldn't wait for it to be shipped.

Dude! Mine is $95 from the dealer!

Atkins sells them for $65 it seems....

Well, what about... getting some SS pipe with a 45 degree diameter, and making a flange, then brazing that together? I am in shop class right now, and it's possible!

yeah, that's why i think you should spend the extra cash on a metal piece that won't break like the plastic/original FG ones.

If you have the tools then make one. Just check to make sure it's not flawed and will give you problems down the road..

Mazdatrix one IS metal right?

yes

dude max go with the metal one. i had the same problem a while back. i would drive like 20 min and my coolent was gone. it turned out to be the neck. got the metal replacement cuz a local fd owner made me ha. and i havent regreted it.

you ever going to get that other engine?

hey im tearing down my garage and building a new one so my suspension and 3rd gen turbo stuff has to go.

wait, isnt S4 supposed to have a metal one stock? or was yours cracked?

And yes, I'm getting that other engine, just that I have like, almost NO cash ATM, so I'm gonna be selling some stuff...

oh kool. what are you selling. its a rebuilt engine.

Hey guys... so today I ground the coolant sensor, so it does not go mad, and drove my car around a bit, parked it for 2 hrs, and drove some more. The coolant gauge never went higher than 1/2 and since the buzzer didnt go off, it seems that it is NOT a bad wiring in the harness problem.

My question is: how much pressure is there supposed to be in the upper rad hose after the engine is shut down? Mine has a lot of pressure in it. Is it possible that my coolant leak may be a cracked housing and the combustion pressure overpressurizes the coolant system?

also, my car smokes a blue-ish/ white ish color when I first start it up, and id does so for 5min or so until it warms up. How heavy should this smoke be if it sat for like a week? I had it coming out of there like a stove pipe!

uhoh. White smoke like you describe = bad coolant seals. Take a pic/vid at the next startup.

Well, it stops after it warms up... but it smokes like it DOES have bad coolant seals...lol

that means that your coolant seals have expanded once they reach operating temps. As the car cools down the coolant seals contract and the rip/tear in the seal allows coolant to seep into the chamber that eventually becomes that sweet smelling white smoke.

Must have overheated badly enough to damage the seals.

Well, then that other engine is coming in ASAP!

The thing is, this one, even with 140K still runs like a fresh inmate from the showers.... so maybe it go a rebuild some time during those 140K? But then again, maybe I just dont know how it SHOULD run? I drove an S4 vert, and it felt way slower, and only had like, 115K on it.

well you overheated it and killed the seals. It will run fine until the crack/tear gets big enough to not close at operating temps and then your gonna be burning steam at all times.