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-   -   Thinking of going e-fan (https://rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=18080)

RETed 02-26-2014 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT (Post 276609)
I would like to interject that it depends on the size of your rad....

Good point.
I run an AFCO 80125N.
22.5" x 18.5" x 3.0" core, 2-core, 1" core tubes, double-pass
26.0" x 20.0" x 3.0" overall
Biggest rad we could stuff in the FC without "major" mods.
Stock rad supports required to be cut.
Battery needs to be relocated or downsized.
Custom mounting required.


Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT (Post 276609)
I like this idea... I think I just added something to my todo list this year... twin fans with dual controls through the ECU... once fan kicks on @ 185*, the other @ 195*....

If you can't run a side-by-side, you can run two separate fans...
One pusher in front of the rad, and one puller on the back-side.


-Ted

t_g_farrell 02-26-2014 04:13 PM

At least for FBs, the dual MR2 fans (1st gen early 80s vintage) fit really well and can be
separately controlled. I have them on my SA with dual wiring, relays and fuses. If one
blows the other keeps going and actually one is more than enough to cool the car in most
situations. I know this is the 2nd gen area but they may fit there as well.

TitaniumTT 02-26-2014 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed (Post 276613)
Good point.
I run an AFCO 80125N.
22.5" x 18.5" x 3.0" core, 2-core, 1" core tubes, double-pass
26.0" x 20.0" x 3.0" overall
Biggest rad we could stuff in the FC without "major" mods.
Stock rad supports required to be cut.
Battery needs to be relocated or downsized.
Custom mounting required.

Yeah... that's a big boy!

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed (Post 276613)
If you can't run a side-by-side, you can run two separate fans...
One pusher in front of the rad, and one puller on the back-side.


-Ted

I'll be able to get two in ther if I offset them... one pusher and one puller I'm not a huge fan of because the pusher is just an obstruction at speed...

Quote:

Originally Posted by t_g_farrell (Post 276659)
At least for FBs, the dual MR2 fans (1st gen early 80s vintage) fit really well and can be
separately controlled. I have them on my SA with dual wiring, relays and fuses. If one
blows the other keeps going and actually one is more than enough to cool the car in most
situations. I know this is the 2nd gen area but they may fit there as well.

It should fit... IIRC the 2nd gen rad is bigger.... Good tip... Cheers

Pete_89T2 02-26-2014 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT (Post 276609)
What about taking the shroud off and cutting it in half across the rad, not down it... then building a bracket that's riveted on one side with e Dzus fastener on the other. The way you can split the shroud in half and take the top half off giving MUCH better access to the front of the waterpump and the fan?

I like that idea... I was thinking of a split shroud concept, although I didn't think the stock plastic shroud material is rigid enough to be split like that. Would need a really solid bracket & fastener design to make sure it doesn't flex and interfere with the fan at any point during vibration/shock & any engine movement.


Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT (Post 276609)
I don't believe the Rtek has the option of fueling for temp.....

It doesn't.

TitaniumTT 02-27-2014 12:08 AM

I think a bracket like I described would hold it plenty....

driftxsequence 07-15-2014 12:12 PM

Where do you read your temps from?

The one time I tracked my car with my v-mount I guess it wasnt sealed well enough and after 3-4 laps the temps would get to around 200, and then slowly climb. I stopped around 210 out of fear and coasted for a lap. they would come back down and go right back up. Is this safe or too hot when on the track? Does a second oil cooler help lower this as well?

Also...what do you guys have as a fan shroud? I have a basic spal fan with a sheet of stainless steel sandwiched between the radiator and fan. When the fan is on it works great, but on the highway it'll creep up till i turn the fan on and it goes back down. I've read about relief flaps but dont know what to use.

S4 T2, Vmount, megasquirt, bnr stage 3, koyo rad, etc

TitaniumTT 07-15-2014 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence (Post 285466)
Where do you read your temps from?

MoTeC with a CAN to the AIM dash, so I read it where the ECU sees it, right behind the Tstat at the hottest point.

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence (Post 285466)
The one time I tracked my car with my v-mount I guess it wasnt sealed well enough and after 3-4 laps the temps would get to around 200, and then slowly climb. I stopped around 210 out of fear and coasted for a lap. they would come back down and go right back up. Is this safe or too hot when on the track?

It's fine, there's nothing wrong with that.... most modern cars run at that temp anyway

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence (Post 285466)
Does a second oil cooler help lower this as well?

Depends, what are your oil temps?

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence (Post 285466)
Also...what do you guys have as a fan shroud?

Custom built AL

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence (Post 285466)
I have a basic spal fan with a sheet of stainless steel sandwiched between the radiator and fan.

SS retains heat more than the AL will shed it... you're basically retaining the heat with that piece of SS. Also.... the fan needs to be spaced off the radiator at least an inch. This will pull more air through a larger area

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence (Post 285466)
When the fan is on it works great, but on the highway it'll creep up till i turn the fan on and it goes back down. I've read about relief flaps but dont know what to use.

Mistake number 1 is have a switch for a fan... it should be automated

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence (Post 285466)
S4 T2, Vmount, megasquirt, bnr stage 3, koyo rad, etc

I'm making a lot more HP and don't have cooling issues..... my temps on a 104* track day never saw above 185* coolant 200ish Oil. How well ducted is your VMIC setup?

driftxsequence 07-15-2014 01:28 PM

Oil temps followed coolant. I think I stopped once oil hit 215-220. Currently I have the oil cooler sitting in front of the radiator. I feel this is a mistake and needs to be moved, but for ease of installation this was my choice. undertray is installed, and there is a rad panel in the front. you can see the ripped foil tape from where i had it sealing the intercooler.

My fan is on a switch currently because the MS isnt clicking the relay. I can manually ground the relay and have the fan kick on, but the MS output wont ground it. it clicks on and off.

here is my v mount, and you can see the oil cooler partially blocking the radiator. How air-tight do I need it to be?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps94ded6d1.jpg

I appreciate the quick reply!

TitaniumTT 07-15-2014 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence (Post 285482)
Oil temps followed coolant. I think I stopped once oil hit 215-220. Currently I have the oil cooler sitting in front of the radiator. I feel this is a mistake and needs to be moved

It is

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence (Post 285482)
but for ease of installation this was my choice. undertray is installed, and there is a rad panel in the front. you can see the ripped foil tape from where i had it sealing the intercooler.

The oil cooler is heating the radiator and the SS panel is as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence (Post 285482)
My fan is on a switch currently because the MS isnt clicking the relay. I can manually ground the relay and have the fan kick on, but the MS output wont ground it. it clicks on and off.

Probably something in the programming or just because megasuck

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence (Post 285482)
here is my v mount, and you can see the oil cooler partially blocking the radiator.

Very similar to mine, except bigger rad, bigger dual oil coolers, bigger intercooler.

Quote:

How air-tight do I need it to be?
Mine is air tight and probably water tight. The more air you can force throught he heat exchangers, the lower the temps will be.

driftxsequence 07-15-2014 03:19 PM

I appreciate it! Guess it's time to make some new brackets and get a second FC oil cooler.


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