well, I replaced the broken part, I still don't understand how the hard plastic affected the conductivity but I'm not an electrician. If anyone can explain it, please do so. I just thought it was hard plastic. Maybe the exposed metal was grounding??? :dunno:

It has been running perfect since the broken piece was replaced. I am noticing some flluctuations in voltage (based on the stock voltmeter) from 12V to 13V. Sometimes it's at 12V, most of the time it's at 13V to 13.5V

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ff/toys027.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../toys028-1.jpg

^^^NOTICE how the B-terminal connector isn't going in the whole way??? I noticed the metal stud going to the B-connector still had plastic on it. :dunno: I did my best to remove as much of the plastic with the smallest tools I had and the new one went on snugly.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ff/toys029.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ff/toys030.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ff/toys031.jpg

My stock gauge never shows me over 12.4v. With anything running (only lights since I have no radio or air), it shows under that. And... never had a problem so they're not always accurate.

well, whether it's accurate or not it should always be constant. IF it fluctuates then something else is not right.

SO, it's been a few days without a single unexpected event.

Mine fluctuates. It may not be right, but it's been 3 years with no battery/starting/charging problems... :dunno:

:dunno: I'll slap on the voltmeter one of these days.

Eh, if it works it works. Don't fix it if it isn't broke... :D

Didn't they say the same thing about Social Security? :lol: It's been good so far and I don't see how checking the voltage as RETed recommended earlier would hurt. If anything I'd benefit more if something IS not working right and isn't causing any problems, YET. Hope for the best, prepare for the worst.

I recently bled the clutch hydraulics and I have to change the oil and tranny/rear end fluids soon. Soon after that I'll do a coolant system flush and refill the AC.

IT'S BAAAAAAAAAAACK.

*insert a billion curse words*

I have ONE option left: rewire-the terminal in hopes that it's a bad connection. If that doesn't work then It's back to the Alternator shop for an inspection.

I tightened everything tonight and the lights stayed on. Oddly enough the battery charged to 12V even while all the lights were on. :dunno: I'm irritated and worried. Good thing it's almost friday.

I'll be following RETed's advice about the checking the charging system with a DMM and see if I can further pinpoint the flaw.

DAMNIT!

I noticed that the rig terminal was a tad lifted at the base, (remember this one was shorter than the stocker? well the opening for the ring terminal is narrower too.) that may be the bad on/off issues before. I also noticed that the lights would turn off when i moved the B-terminal itself. Could be a bad internal part (that connect to the B-terminal)? or maybe even the plastic I mentioned earlier.

DMM tomorrow morning. If I can see that it's the B terminal/rectifier then I'll head to the alternator shop and have them give me another one if it's bad.

DMM is dead so nothing this morning. Later tonight for sure. The lights flickered on and off a few times but they remained on 90% of the time. This is turning out to be the most annoying problem I've encountered so far.

turned out to be a faulty Alternator. They gave me a new one for free. It's been problem-free ever since.

Dude, that link you gave is restricted access. :P


-Ted

It's in the West section. :dunno:

let that be a warning for messing with me.













:lol: I dunno why it's says that. like my5ababy said: It's just in the west section.