well consider that it is a giant chunk of metal. The standard issue piston ones are made with thinner wall, smaller diameter metal. There is a lot more strength to be found in the FC one. Odds are it wont last forever since eventually it will crack, but the same holds true with the cast iron ones, even OEM.

I am tempted to try one, header wrap and see how long the bastard goes for.

ok, so the options are out there for t04 turbos, when it comes to manifolds. What about manifold for hybrids?

1. I'd like to know how restrictive the stock TII manifolds are.
2. How much improvement in the exhaust flow can you create?
3. Isn't the Stock manifold the most direct way from the exhaust-to-turbo?

Give me some time bro. I'll be gettin' stuff done here in a few months, i'll keep the community posted on what I'll have available in the line up then. Also why not just get a stock manifold flow benched? Should be pretty easy to do. Go to the shop and say, hey: flow bench this for me. Tell me what it can do.

well alot of it would be a function of porting with the stock turbo to maximize flow. A stock manifold CAN make a lot of power with a large hybrid, but at what point is it too much "work" to achieve a result.

i would love to get some BNR input as well as Kevin on this one since they have opposite viewpoints.

Just by me looking at the stock turbo, number 3 is not true. You have a volumetric space that causes increase in turbulance as different temperatures meet each other. This will slow down flow of the manifold.

However, you forget that a majority of the magic for a turbo to operate effectively comes from temperature and pressure differences and not necessarily the flow of gases to the turbine.

Wahts the point of flow with a stock manifold? The stock hotside is too small to give good spool on a larger turbo, that's why hybrids suck, at least imo.

Well it also depends on your goals. If I want 300hp to 350hp then the hybrid is fine. can't you port the manifold and hotside for better flow? (mind you I have never pulled the manifold out.)

there is also the thought of new vs. used. There seem to be a lot more used T4 items around, but the end price is about that of a BNR rebuild hybrid.

That's a tough question because depending on how you port it you'll gain velocity but reduce pressure. The rest is up to the turbine wheel and what's being used with what.

My manifold is ported as well as the entry to the hotside. I can't tell a big difference, but it does seem to spool faster. In fact it spools faster than FerociousP's 6 port turbo.

As far as manifold solutions go, I have a tubular T04 designed for an FD. I am going to use an RB header flange as a spacer to clear the LIM, then go from there. Although I am very tempted to build myself a hybrid. I am not looking for super high HP anyway.

so if you use two gaskets and an rb flange you can space a fd manifold out far enough to clear? Same for the 13b-re intake manifolds? Are the stock studs long enough?

From what I have read, yes it will clear TII and RE LIM's. One of the two styles of turbochargers (tangial or on-center, can't remember which) will usually clear with no spacer. I'll have to look it up again though.

The stock studs are NOT long enough. You need to get longer ones, which can be found at many online hardware sites.

What thread, pitche and length stud should be ordered?

Hola.

Cast iron HKS manifolds are great for 400-450 RWHP applications and you don't have to worry about cracking issues. The T2 cast iron manifolds have creep issues if the turbine housing is small. Also the pattern maker of the 2g hks manifold didn't account for casting shrinkage and the ports don't line up with the engine ports. If the 2g is port matched, you are good if you run a .96 A/r T4 turbine housing. The .81 undivided will creep a bit. The FD HKS cast is fully devided and the 1.00 a/r divided turbine housing is about the best combo. With the right external gate, creep will not be seen. The china manifold is fine, not great on quality, but if it cracks, it only costs 100 bucks to replace it :D. The china manifold is a better design than the HKS units, but do you want to replace it at a later date? If you don't mind working on your car and you are on a budget, go for the china. You will have to alter a few things, but it should be somewhat close. HKS units are great for 450 RW or less, and if you like to build a car and not worry about it, they are the best for the money. My FB made 440 RWHP on a FD HKS manifold, and I made 435 RWHP with the same manifold with a 62-1 turbo on my FD. If you want 450 or more, you need longer runners, go china :D.

Bryan@BNR

The reason why cast turbo exhaust manifolds are recommended is because they will outlast almost any tube turbo exhaust manifolds.
If you're going to argue stainless steel tube turbo exhaust manifolds, then cast units will almost always be cheaper.
Except for all that Made-in-China crap...

There's an underlying problem with buying all that cheap ass Made-in-China crap...
Economies.
People bitch about how the US dollar is devalued and how China's economy is pumping like there's no tomorrow.
Gee...I wonder why...duh.
You wanna save your dollars now and bend the U.S. economy over, go buy all that cheap crap.

Sorry for the global economy rant.


-Ted