| TitaniumTT |
05-06-2009 07:25 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
(Post 76371)
In a perfect world everything we bought would be a perfect fit. Unfortunately if you deal with aftermarket stuff much (I often do) you'll see that even "direct bolt on" stuff usually requires some tweaking and modifying to get to work right. And depending on what COMBINATION of aftermarket "direct bolt on" stuff you are trying to use together, you can sometimes encouter more major problems. It's just the nature of the beast when modifying a car. And, from the other side of the coin, a part maker cannot possibly know every deviation possible with different engine and part setups and account for it in their part design. Even a car that has been wrecked lightly before can cause some parts not to fit properly, such as exhaust, body panels, motor mounts, chassis braces, etc.
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Couldn't have said it better myself :icon_tup: This is the reason that I make all of my own parts or have a machine shop, CNC mill owning friend, or a hydraulic shop make my parts. I've tried the bolt on route and nothing EVER bolted right up. I just got fed up with it all about 10 years ago. Same holds true for my buddies Landi D90. When you have to take a plasma cutter to a brand new $900 bumper becuase it doesn't fit right, there's problems. of course that was an extreme case exhaserbated by an aftermarket intercooler that required and aftermarket grille, but wel still ended up cutting the bumper apart and completely reworking it. I wish I had before and after pics, trully a sight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
(Post 77259)
The only problem with that is, you have to have the car down for however many days or weeks it takes your shop to get your lines done, because they have to re-use your factory metal ends/fittings. Unless of course you buy a stock used set to have them rework...
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Depends on the shop. There are a few local that will do that while you wait. of course you may not want to wait but it's usually done in the same day.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vex
(Post 77311)
Well I'm trying to price out how much it will cost for me to make my own using some stainless steel lines but I've hit a snag. I know they're supposed to be -10 but what is the thread pitch on the stock FC oil cooler? Are they 16mm or something else? If they're 16mm I could just buy some RB adapters for 13 each, some -10 stainless steel line, and some -10 AN fittings and be on my way. I'm concerned however about the 90* from the rear iron since it will more than likely be an extremely tight fit.
any thoughts?
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MT & RB have already done the math for you, and have figured out how to make it cheap enough for you to buy them pre-made, and expensive enough for you to buy them pre-made :suspect:
Quote:
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
(Post 78020)
Well I'll be a son of a bitch. I drove the FC around some today and popped the hood when I got back just to check things out and let it cool off. I notice some oil puddled on the undertray near the radiator, so I investigate. Come to find out my corksport SS line is leaking where the line joins the crimped fitting near the front cover. :cuss:
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Ugh, that blows Kevin. I had the same problem with my CS lines with the old engine setup.... except mine leaked at the cooler, not the front cover. Within 1207 miles it had SOAKED the undercarriage with oil. I was a little more than annoyed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
(Post 85722)
uhm, if you like your engine, you wont run stock ones. They leak and eventually bust. Sometimes they just bust right then and there for no reason. You dump out your oil supply in 30 seconds, and by the time you hear your buzzer go off, it is already too late.
I consider this right up there with a thermostat and pulsation damper replace/elimination, as high priority maintenance on an FC to prevent engine loss. It has nothing to do with hp, it has to do with reliability.
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:icon_tup:
Quote:
Originally Posted by My5ABaby
(Post 85697)
That's what I'm saying. Is there a reason to get the SS ones (besides looks) when the stock ones last for 20+ years? Do the stock ones not work well on upgraded or high hp engines?
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It's also a cost thing. I don't know the recent prices on lines but when I was replacing my blown factory ones, that like Kevin said almost cost me a motor, they were 2-3x the price of the stainless ones through the dealer. |
