well, i sent out the final payment on the FC. Ill be picking it up in 2.5 weeks! :)

Still havent figured out the flooding though. Secondary injectors got switched but it still doesn't quite catch. Once i get it in my posession, ill swap the primaries and see if thats the issue.

Would a bad FPR cause a flood on start?

technically yes. Only reason i can confirm this is mine on a car i used to have some how went bad and it would not relieve fuel pressure to the return so the pressure was quite high.

I thought so. ill keep that in mind if swapping the primaries doesn't fix it.

(ironically i think i have a FPR issue on my DD too lol)

no not really. if you tear down the motor to rebuild just a few seals you will be wasting a ton of time for nothing, if you tare that thing apart make sure you do it proper and have a master kit waiting for it. you'll be doing yourself a huge disservice otherwise

Why on earth would you need a master kit? Especially before what you know is in spec and what isn't?

Why replace the rotor bearings if they're still in spec?
Why replace the stationary gear bearings if they're still in spec?
Why replace the Apex seals if they're still in spec (assuming the engine has 2 piece seals)?
Why replace the side seals if they're still in spec?
Why replace the corner seals if they're still in spec?
Why replace the oil control rings if they're still in spec (I'm referring to the hard rings and not the soft seals which are replaced during a rebuild)?
etc
etc
etc

You shouldn't ever buy a rebuild kit before you know what's in spec and what isn't. You can save so much more money than just buying a master rebuild kit. Sure you can buy a master rebuild kit and be done with it and know that you're going to have an engine that should theoretically last over 100k, or you can replace what's been worn out of spec and get an engine that should theoretically last over 100k.

/\ Good point, and besides, it's not like most people are going to end up driving their cars for another 100K in the first place... at least, people with nicer cars that dont drive them every day.

i'm just curious why your making payments on a non running car? hopefully you didn't just pay 12k for it

college intern + making crap + bills = payments on a $300 car :)

Vex, you make good points on the rebuild thing. same thing goes for piston engines. why buy a whole kit w/ pistons, rings etc etc when all you might need is a couple gaskets and bearings? :)

Or you could make the point-
Do it once do it right-
Why use old stuff even if its perfect id rather rebuild once and replace everything than fix what is bad at this time-

If the parts are in spec, they're going to be equivalent to if not the exact same as what you replace them with. There's reasons why the FSM states "if out of spec, replace". There's no point except bragging rights and maybe a false sense of security with just swapping in with a master kit all the parts that are still in spec. You run the same exact chances of failure with new parts that are spec'd that you do with old parts that are spec'd. Now, if we were talking about re-using soft seals, then yes. Replacing soft seals are mandatory for correct function.

thats the point i was trying to make ill take the false sense of security anyday

Let me put it this way: You have a used journal bearing that shows no sign of wear. You spec it and it shows the perfect conditions for the bearing to have.

Compare it to a new journal bearing you have that shows no sign of wear. You spec it and it shows the perfect conditions for the bearing to have.

What's the difference?

id still toss the old one. i guess you dont get my point eather, i get what your saying, and on say, a pulley bearing i totaly get and understand your point. its something that is easily accesable, and if they pulley is still up to spec and has no signs of wear then why replace it. if im tearing down an engine for a rebuild id much rather use a master rebuild kit and not have to worry about specing every single piece. just replace it and get it over with.

:beatdeadhorse5:
Even with new parts you should still be specing them prior to install. At no point in the rebuild process should you not be specing any part in a high tolerance location (all bearings and seals). So again, beyond a false sense of security, extra work, extra money, there is no benefit (can those really be called a benefit?) to replacing an in-spec part for a new in-spec part. If an old in-spec part does eventually fail in the engine, it's not going to be because the part was old/tired and broke from fatigue, it will occur--more likely from an out of spec, improperly installed, or catastrophic failure from a pre-ignition event. All of which would cause the same exact failure of a new part in the same way.

Now that being said, some parts are better off being replaced even if they're still in spec: Apex seals, if they're of the old 3 piece kind, can easily be upgraded to the newer 2 piece without much issue or head ache. In spec 2 piece so long as you remember which rotor they came from and which apex they came from on that rotor can easily be used for the rebuild if there's enough life in them. If however the apex seals are getting closer to the wear limit (6.5mm~7mm) One should think about replacing them with new because failure of those seals will occur sooner than a new (8mm) apex seal (for further clarification look at the ash content of oils thread in the general tech section). Apex seals are wear parts.

When it comes to bearings however there is absolutely no benefit to replacing the old with the new, unless of course you're stepping up to a 3 window, or race bearing. This is because there is supposed to be no actual contact between the eccentric shaft and the bearing, as well as the rotor bearing should make no actual contact with the eccentric shaft. The journal bearings use the principle of shear to keep wear from occurring, and as such the oil will play a much bigger role in the life of those parts than the actual time in the engine of the part.

So, if I still don't get it. Please explain it to me where the benefit comes from replacing old-in-spec parts with new-in-spec parts?

Well, i towed my "new" rx-7 home this weekend. 1400mi round trip in 36 hours. Wend down with a 2.3L 4-cyl 2wd manual ranger and a tow dolly to south carolina to pick it up. Loaded the car onto the dolly backwards (drive wheels off the ground) and trundled slowly back. Couldn't go above 55-60 as i had trailer-whip when i hit 65+.

The car is the one that was for sale HERE and there are a couple pics as well.

As far as i can tell, it is in good shape. a SC car all its life i believe, virtually no rust that i saw. Its actually a 87 according to the title with 170K or so miles.

There are some small issues with it (aside from not starting/running)
1) shifter has vertical play, i think the retaining plate is wore out or broken
2) right side mirror housing is broken
3) a triangle-ish vent cover on the right of the dash is MIA (grey interior)
4) e-brake handle casing is cracked and separating
5) minor dings, scratches, loose or cracked interior pieces
6) one of the rear glass latches isn't latching
7) driver's door doesn't lock
8) clutch pedal likes to stick down at the floor (stuck PP maybe?)

As for the motor, Im planning on getting a battery and seeing what it does when i try and start it. I'll probably pump out the tank and replace the fuel filter as well as an oil change and possibly a coolant change.

I still have to change the primary injectors and see if that helps with the flooding/starting issue. I'll post up more later this week when i get a battery and a chance to fiddle with it.

It needs a little TLC but it will definitely get that now :) BTW, is there supposed to be an RX-7 badge on teh rear? all i have is a "Mazda" one.

And if anyone has an s4 or s5 parting out i'll be interested in parts/pieces to get this back into decent shape :D