there is actually alot of breathing... vent on the oil tube is open. no emissions.

is that something that would be so consistent?? it was 50-60psi at startup today (cold as balls outside) but by the time I got to work it was a 10psi, revs would send it up to 50 but it stabilizes instead of dropping like I hear the oring causes.. am i correct?? If I let it cool down and restart it the same thing happens...

Although I've never experienced low oil pressure due to that o-ring myself, talking to those who have - yes it is very consistent because it not being there/it being blown out causes the pressure to be low all the time as that o-ring isn't sealing at any time. But again, thats going by second accounts of front cover o-ring failure.

well, i got the other car running... so hopefully I can get it torn down and replace what I can and see what happens... should I replace the regulators and such as well?? I guess I can check the pump for damage while i'm at it.

It's most likely the o-ring.
If it's not, you're not going to like the alternatives. :(
The other two possible culprits are either the front or the rear (main) OPR's.
This is highly unlikely if the engine has never been opened up.
It's is very unlikely either would fail, but there is always a first.
I've had both of them fall out (don't ask), and they exhibit the same symptoms you describe.

If all of that checks out, you got a massive blockage somewhere in the oil system...again, highly unlikely but you never know...


-Ted

Sounds like the o-ring to me.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

What you are trying to prevent is having the gasket and O-ring squeezing out of place and blowing the oil (under pressure) into the front cover instead of through the engine. SYMPTOMS of this problem are lower oil pressure at all times, but especially when the engine is hot. A slight "squeeze-out" can give 10-20 lbs at idle, 40-55 at 3500rpm, and drop to 35lbs at 5000rpm. A large "squeeze-out" can give almost zero at idle, and maybe 35-40lbs above 2000rpm.

we could have it out in a hour, and even take it apart. its the putting it back together part that I'm not so keen on, as i've never done it before... :leaving:

I think it is a little close to DGRR to get into a rebuild. Besides, finding a good 4 port engine, and rebuilding it would be a better idea. Right gay boy?

SO, if just Paul comes, than its a $75 rebuild.



































DO IT!!!

yes, but that takes money and a donor 4-port... maybe when I get my taxes back I can give it right to kevin and get a rebuild, but that has yet to materialize

By the power of Grayskull!!!!!



PS-Fixed

damn those posts were quick...

That sounds like a good plan, I think you an Paul need to take it to PM.

PS- Could you have the motor rebuilt and ready to rock with time to spare for install and break in by DGRR?!?!?

Like I said, maybe talk to Paul, and Phil. I don't even know if there is a place there to do something like this.

But I agree it would be a great benefit to the community. Also, it shows how giving you are, since you are teaching people to do themselves what you make your living on.

Kudos.

then we need to do what has to be done.... rig the door prize..:Wconfused:... no??

seriously though... I would be interested in going 4-port for flow reasons, rotors I would have to think about... recommend hi-comp 4port??

realistically what would the parts cost? would this idea involve bringing the motor alone or doing it all at the gap?? i'd be embarassed putting a frash motor in a pink car!! :icon_tdown: