Dan you build motors for the public? HAHA!

Actually we do, but we don’t advertise for it as we are typically filled up with enough work on our own cars to keep us busy.

Dan

very good write up. still looking into lightweight rotors if possible.

That was an excellent write up.

Well done good sir.... well done.

Excellent information. If anyone knows, does this also apply to FC's?

how about the seals?

I've read elsewhere that:

-rx-8 apex seals can't stand a peripheral exhaust port and warp/wear down; also read that they eat up the non-rx-8 rotor housing chrome
-corner seals with metal plugs eat up non-rx-8 side plates

anyone here with some insight?

Very good info. I never thought about looking up new RX8 parts as replacements for older models.

i'll have an RX-8 E-shaft in my REW when I get it back within the next few weeks...

Nice write up.

I planned on using these parts for the 13B RE build in my FC. Mainly because the 13B RE from the cosmo stationary gears don't support more than 6500RPM (seeing as how they were built for an automatic luxury car) and the price of the MSP gears and e-shaft are much less than that of an REW. I do still plan to keep the RE rotors though.

Very nice write-up! Its nice to have the actual specs now....

Oh - side note. This SHOULD apply to FC 13B engines as well. I don't see why you couldn't use the MSP e-shaft and stat gears in earlier 13Bs... so long as you balance it all accordingly.

This is great info, thanks.

I don't believe anyone has noted the fact that the oil passage on the stationary gears does not line up properly with the passage in the non-Renesis irons. It's an easy matter to open up the passage of the gear to match the iron. The rear gear has about half the passage shadowed.

I'll add another point to this thread. We had a small oil leak on Dan's car toward the end of the year. When we pulled the engine this winter we found that the o-ring on the rear stationary gear was not sealing properly and that was the source of the leak. Upon disassembly, we found that the o-ring had pretty much self destructed on the rough casting of the rear iron and we chose to re-assemble without the o-ring and just use RTV instead. With that being said, the additional machining that I had done to the rear gear is probably unnecessary so long as you use RTV instead of the o-ring.

I've never tired to use an o-ring with the rear gear but I have used RTV (Right Stuff) and Hylomar. Both have worked equally well.

part #s ,pics and very well explained .i wish they were all these clean .great job man