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Barry |
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I re-used that seal. I have over 2500 miles on the engine since the failure and have had no issues. Stock water pump, stock radiator (a lot of fins are rotted out, I am replacing it). I read this thread earlier and I found the tell-tale pattern on my housings, so I figured that beveling the edges was a good idea that may keep me from losing an engine. It survived 3000+ miles on the street just fine, but didn't survive the dyno run. I should have backed out of the throttle and had the dyno turn the loading down, My coolant temp was about 125 C when the seal went. I went to the dyno since then and had no issues (with the temp under 115 C) I think that the spark plug boss grows too much relative to the unsupported housing around it. I have considered welding a brace in (parallel with the coolant flow) to keep the surrounding housing growing at a similar rate to the spark plug hole (although the spark plug hole has threads in it). I like racing beat's idea - if I had this information before I rebuilt the engine, I probably would have done that. |
I think you're missing what I'm saying.
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It didn’t seem to help much to alleviate the growth problem as I had hoped. The next set of mods included severed fins and larger balanced passages. |
Barry,
You said you were using reliability mods.. What mods exactly were you using? Ported? etc, etc, Just curious :) |
It seems to me that the stain is in line perfectly with the fin. It appears to me that the fin has kept that area from growing. Effectively retracting it as the rest of the housing grows. Looking at the 16x and the renni, they seem to aleviate some of this material. I'm wondering if this is in an attempt to not contain it, but to let it grow a the same rate. Thoughts?
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Increasing the engergy transfer around the spark plug hole I believe will yeild more results than not. Something else to consider is that the cooling of the combustion walls is not necessarily the root cause of the problem. I'll have to do some research into the material properties when I'm back home, but could it be the atomic structure of the materials developing fissures over time due to heat cycling? For instance would voids and imperfections in the casting develop the same event? Quote:
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The cracks in the OEM Apex Seals are due to their hardness. I noticed 20-30 compression gains on rotor housings when re-freshed using our Apex Seals and these are housings that would otherwise go to the trash. A few years ago we posted a 135PSI 12A engine that we built but no one believed now Judge ito has been building 130 to 140PSI Engines daily with used (refreshed) rotor housings but one thing is for sure the raised spark plug area is a problem if not addressed. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...t=12967&page=5 |
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I believe the factory started grinding either the apex seals or the housing surface that way for better fit while running. Barry |
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another problem on used housings, this is why they shrink, and why we measure for width, is that the steel liner actually collapses in the compression area, so the center of the housing bows in. its very bad to have leakage between chambers... mike |
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Notice the temps where we want to provide extra cooling are doubled that of atmospheric boiling water. Barry http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...usingtemps.jpg |
that very well could be. next time you have some used housings handy, take a straight edge and lay it across the surface, its above the spark plugs that seems to do the worst.
i did build a couple of motors with a stock diameter stud kit, and i was told to tighten it to 50lbs, but i think this is actually bad. it also certainly didn't solve the actual problem which was stock ecu/injectors with a street port and big turbo! or more correctly the owner. after thinking about it, i think the small diameter studs actually hurt more than they help. the studs DO NOT locate any of the housings any better than the stock bolts, plus #50lbs of torque the rotor housings probably ARE bowing, which is bad! mike |
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So I did a little more research and I think this modified picture is quite enlightening. Sorry it's hard to make out but it's the best I can do with GIMP at the moment.
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1306892507 We now have flame fronts with angles of eccentric shaft and the temperatures at those flame fronts that match up with the chart. I have a few more pieces of information that I will be posting throughout the week coming from SAE paper 860560: Material Technology Development Applied to Rotary Engine at Mazda by Takumi Muroki and Jun Miyata |
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