Cool! it looks like it might be warmer in SC than it is here. I can't seem to convince my legs to walk to the garage. (It's too cold in there to finish a wire loom).

It's looking good, will you be able to take it for a spin soon?

Yep, soon.

Look what I made.
A small electric distribution piece with a fuel-cut switch on the side.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0001-3.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0006-2.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0004-3.jpg

This is the piece that is located right under the steering column.

I'm going to use this to power some of my extra gauges.

So its pretty much all back together.
I'm going to take it for a spin this afternoon.


There is a few issues I'm having.

I've got to replace the clutch hydraulic hose, its leaking.

The mechanical oil pressure line is still leaking at the connections after I put epoxy where the line comes out, I also sealed up the threads of the connections, all that and both ends are dripping, slowly though.

Not sure what else to do about this. When I made the connections I flared out the ends of the plastic line with a tip of a pen actually. Then, on the line connection going to the guage I put sealing tape on the threads On the other end I put RTV on the threads. Then I put epoxy on the holes where the line comes out.


Ive also have yet to figure out what to do about the resistors I put inline with the secondary injector wiring when I did the bridge-port.
I took out the 550's I had in there for the bridge-port, and put back the originals for this motor.
I think I'm going to see where I'm at with A/F ratio, then decide if they need to be taken out. I might be able to run it a little leaner than factory.

So I've put 18 miles on it.
It was running too lean up top, in the 15s.
So I took the resistors out, now the afrs are good, but really rich around 7k rpms.

Ive also found out that my heater core has been leaking, the carpet on both sides of the tranny tunnel are wet/damp with coolant.

It drives real smooth, though I feel its a little less powerful than the HBP motor.

What do you consider good for AFR?

You should be shooting for 13.0 to 13.5:1 on Gasoline. If you run much rich of that, you are wasting fuel and leaving power on the table.

What are you running for ignition timing?

You should not need 550 cc/min injectors. If you do, you either have a fuel pressure problem, have hit on some amazing porting that flows exceptionally well, or are running excessively rich.

I was at 63% Duty Cycle with 216 WHp on 460 cc/min injectors. Unless you are making 250+ WHp, the 460cc/min are plenty.

Lets get a feeling for torque, if you floor the throttle in first gear with the engine at 2500-3000 RPM - will the tires spin? If you floor it at 7,000 RPM, will the tires spin? Where does it feel like it pulls the hardest? My 6-port made peak torque about 7500 rpm. If you are running excessively rich there, you are probably killing your sweet spot.

I would expect that engine to be capable of spinning all season 205/60 R15s on a throttle transition between 6,000 RPM and 7,500 RPM.

Ignition Timing should be around 30 degrees BTDC Above 3,500 RPM.

Haven't really yet driven this car to get a feel for its power & torque, I don't really expect much since its a mild ported S4 NA.

I did get the oil leak fixed, kind of, its still leaking a little where the other plug is in the oil filter pedestal. Probably just needs some sealant.

Updated Engine picture.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0005-3.jpg

And how its going to look for now until the next cosmetic change.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0009-5.jpg
I made a hood scoop block off plate. Its a little rough. I'm not using the scoop anyway, and this should keep most of the rain out.

Engine specs.
As of now. Nothing really special.
Its basically an S4 NA. 9.4 comp rotors, S4 intake manifolds.
Apex seals are RA Classics. Also has FD corner seal springs.
Porting: End plates have been street ported. Mild?
Housings have had the NA diffusers grinded out. And ports have been mildly ported.
Exhaust has RB mufflers and pre-silencer.
Clutch is a Clutch Masters stage 2.
Air filter is an Advanced Auto Parts store bought cone style.
Radiator is a no-name brand from an online discount parts store.
Lawn mower battery from walmart.

It still has all the original S5 electronics.

It has had the following components removed for various reasons.
Emissions equip. Rats nest, air pump, etc.
All the AC components.
Power steering pump. And bracket.
2ndary throttle plates.
Aux port sleeves and actuating rods.
And a bunch of other misc. parts from the engine bay. Like sub-zero start tank, washer fluid tank, etc, etc.

So the 7 has been down for upgrades since 10 days ago, I'm not going to post about it yet as not to jinx it.
But I will show a little something on the side from the main project.
This:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0120.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0121.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0122.jpg

I decided to try out Fiberglass work for the first time, and repair an old under-tray.
The works a little messy, but I can handle it.
And I know it looks like crap.
I followed the directions from the can, and used about 4 squares of fiberglass.

That's it for now.

If it works, it works.

Not like anyone sees it.

I say good job.

Well after a month of working on it, I got it started last night, and took it for a drive at noon today.
I still have a few bugs to work out, like an exhaust leak an such.

That's it for now.

Alrighty, I'm so excited about this.
Here's what I've done,
Last year sometime I acquired a Turbo setup for cheap. Turbo, manifold, downpipe, intercooler, and some elbows, included.
I finally got to doing the project a month ago.
Finished it a few days ago.

Pictures and details coming very soon.


I am taking it to DGRR and the Mitty.
I think from where I'm coming from, when I get back home, Ill have around 1000 extra miles on it.
This is going to be one heck of a break-in. lol.

My Turbo project!!!!
 

Ok, continuing what my previous post says about this turbo set up, let me get the pictures & details rolling.

Some picture sets might not be clear of the progression of things, I was more concentrating on building this project, but I think you'll get it.

First the turbo setup I acquired.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0005-4.jpg
(Post downpipe modification.)

I started modifying the down pipe cause it was too long as to fit in between my RB silencer and the turbo.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0001-2.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0002-4.jpg

As i took off the RB silencer the studs got fubared.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0003-4.jpg
I ended up shortening the totally stripped stud, and cut away a thread or two of the other stud, cause the fastener I used was hanging up.

This is what it looks like now.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0026-2.jpg
I took it to a local car repair service center to get it welded together.
Added the extra O2 sensor bung later.

Future plan for this downpipe is to sand it down and cover it with hi-temp paint.

Next, I fabricated the intercooler mounting.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0010-8.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0008-6.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0009-6.jpg

I didn't even have to move the overflow tank or the horn. I did reroute the coolant tubing though.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0011-7.jpg

I painted it black.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0028.jpg

Changing the fittings on the turbo.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSC_00014.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0015.jpg

This is what i used for the oil feed line for the turbo. Parts from the plumbing section at Lowes. They are for Faucets.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0016-2.jpg

Here I fabricated some heat shielding for the turbo.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0012-5.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0013-1.jpg

Intercooler piping. I used exhaust tubing from o'reilly auto parts.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0023.jpg

Painted.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0027.jpg

I modified an intake pipe from a Subaru Impreza and used it for the intake pipe for the turbo. I cut a lot of things off of it to fit and used epoxy to fill the holes and seams.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0017.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0018-1.jpg

I cut apart my old cone air filter to make a filter element for the MAF sensor. A normal size filter wouldn't fit in the engine bay.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0021-1.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0022.jpg

I installed 750cc injectors in the secondary's and rewired the connectors from S5 to S4.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0025-1.jpg

Parts, gaskets, etc.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0024.jpg

Finished project.
 

Kind of tight on the passenger side of the engine bay, but this is how things look.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0038.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0029-1.jpg

I drilled a hole next to the radiator. Blitz BOV I traded some parts for. Used some clear tubing I had around instead of normal vac tubing which I didn't have.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0030-1.jpg

The sun was killing this shot, but shows the IC piping.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0031.jpg

The Subaru Impreza intake pipe installed.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0036-1.jpg

I used an S4 turbo MAF sensor, changed the connector wiring, and have a piece of filter clamped on.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0035-1.jpg

View from above the turbo. One of the heat shields, Oil and coolant lines installed. Also one of my attempts to fix an exhaust leak. I still have a leak.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0037.jpg

Oil feed line and source.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0032.jpg

Oil return.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0033.jpg

Oil temp source via T fitting.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0034.jpg

And boost gauge, with a switch for the gauge light.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0039.jpg

Now for the details.
 

The turbo is a Turbonetics T3/T4 series, I forgot the specs, I wrote them down someplace, have to find that.

It has an external wastegate that apparently came with a 10 pound spring in it.

720cc (not 750cc as I posted before) injectors in the secondarys, with 6 ohm resistors installed inline with the wiring to them, actually located next to the ECU under the carpet.

Stock Turbo AFM.

Stock TII intercooler.

Blitz BOV.

The engine is the same as I posted before. S4, 9.4 comp rotors, mild porting on the housings and end-plates.


And for the best part...

All this runs on the stock S5 NA ECU!


It will boost up to 10psi, but runs really lean up in that range.
Around 5psi AFR's are perfect though. 11's and 12's

Ive taken it for a drive / boosting just a handful of times.
But found out last night after a drive that my Nopi stage 2 carbon kevlar clutch filled the engine bay with burnt/slipped clutch smell.
So I might have to replace it after DGRR'11

I also found that the turbo's oil seals are bad, leaking through the exhaust and leaking externally.

So with all this, I'm expecting a possible clutch, turbo & engine rebuild after DGRR'11. :lol:

Any concern with those oil hoses not being made to withstand petroleum/heat?

I figured they handle some heat & pressure from what they're originally designed for.
I don't know how it will handle oil though.

I'm definitely putting its durability to the test. :D

I'm wondering if that oil feed line is TOO big for the turbo.

You might be feeding it too much oil, thus making the turbo smoke. You know the stock turbo line has a restriction pill, and many aftermarket turbos also require some kind of restriction.

Just a thought.

Ive taken it for few long drives today.
Just this past hour I was really boosting it in all gears except 5th.
Because I have a 10lbs spring I had to vari the throttle, keep boost around 5-6psi.
Things are holding up so far.
As far as oil temps go, Ive seen up to 195*F.

One issue is, even though I'm able to floor it in 1st gear, it bogs down with fuel after 6k rpms.
Ive discovered this might be something having to do with the stock ECU and its fuel map.
My half bridge port motor did this too, it would bog down after 7k rpms.
So I guess a standalone would fix those problems.

Picture from today.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...Tech/MyGTU.jpg

3 days till I leave for DGRR'11.

Sunday I developed a tire problem with the bead not sealing.
A couple days ago I swapped 3 tires with used ones I had. One of them has the bead sealing problem.
I'm getting those swapped again with two more tires I have. Hopefully that will take care of my tires.

Next, Im thinking of swapping in a Tii fuel pump. I think that will solve my lean issues at higher boost (6-10psi). But first Ive got to find it in a garage full of parts.

So I haven't found the fuel pump, I'm just going with what its got.
The 7 is all ready to go to DGRR, just need to fill up the tank w/premium, will do tomorrow.

I'm going to post the starting mileage of this adventure, to see how much the whole trip comes to.

See you at the mitty sunday.

Keep between the lines and right side up until then.

^haha, good advice.

So the odometer reads 200,855 miles at the start of this trip.

I probably won't be back posting till after DGRR.

My DGRR'11 aftermath.
 

So the 7 made it up there, then to the Mitty, and back home with no major problems.
Odometer reads: 202,095 miles, so that's 1,240 miles total trip.

While up there, I did replace the vac hose going from the turbo to the wastegate with a SS braided hose from advanced. The previous vac hoes was melting due to the exhaust leak.

My oil temps while boosting on the dragon, one time went to 230F, then another time went to 248F.
So while boosting on the dragon, oil temps ranged from 220F - 250F. All other times oil temps ranged under 200F.

My gas mileage was 19mpg w/o boost, and 15mpg w/boost.


I had a blast up there. It was a breeze getting up those hills with boost.

So my Lowes faucet lines that feed oil to my turbo have been replaced with fuel hose for now.
Because the faucet line on the turbo side was leaking fairly bad. I thought it was a loose connection but instead the line wore out.
Hopefully the fuel line will last more than a 1k miles.

Also my Blits BOV became stuck closed recently.
I took it off, sprayed it with PB blaster and wd40 took a hammer and socket to the piston, and got it to work again.
Guess I need to oil it every once in a while.

looks great good luck

Alright, time for an update.

So the turbo that I got for this car was cheap and used, and its been smoking blue smoke ever since I put it on.
Around the beginning of October I decided to start fixing the turbo.
From being lazy and stuff, the car has sat for a month in the garage.
But I finally got the turbo rebuilt, and yesterday I finished putting the car all back together.

I start it up, back out of the garage, and the car starts smoking like crazy.
White smoke billowing out of the exhaust pipes.
Shut it down after it warms up, check things out, nothing leaks, all good.
Start it up again, drive around the block, smoke screen all the way, get back, shut it down again.
Stare at the car with disappointed face, thinking, got to be the coolant seals.
Start it up again (btw, starting is like normal every time) take it for a longer drive down the interstate to brothers house.
Right after the drive there are bubbles in the overflow tank and its been drained a little bit.
A little while later uncap the thermostat pressure cap, no bubbles.
Also took off the pipe to the turbo inlet, no residue of oil or anything.
Anyway drive back a little after midnight, so I don't annoy any one with my smoke screen car.
Coolant buzzer starts randomly turning on an off.
About 1/2 way to 3/4 way home, cruising, I see crown vic headlights on my tail, Oh shit, its a cop.
He pulls beside me, I look over with the coolant buzzer going off, I keep driving like nothings wrong, cop backs off and turns around. Whew. :lol:
So I got it back home.

Today I'm going to take off the turbo, get it running NA, see if it still smoking without the turbo.

Looks like I screwed up the turbo rebuild. Have to do it again.

Sneak peek on what I'm currently working on.
 

Here are some pics of what I've been working on.
1st something I'm impressed with.
My front iron on this motor had damage to one of the coolant seal tracts. I asked a local friend if he could repair it by welding it. This is how it turned out.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0029-2.jpg

Fresh painted irons:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0032-1.jpg

Clean! rotors:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0033-1.jpg


More to come.

More is here.


I don't think I have any new photos, but these are basically what the ports on this motor look like.

The center iron ports:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0010-4.jpg

The end iron ports:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0026-1.jpg

The exhaust ports: Kind of a before & after.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps991c9686.jpg

So the end irons of this motor are my half bridge-port irons. The front iron died of coolant seal tract failure but was repaired.
The center iron with its port-job was from the original motor.
The rotor housings are from the original motor, but this time ported.
The rotors are 9.7 compression.
Electronics:
Haltech E6K, with 550's secondary's, no MAF.
Full RB exhaust.
N/A.


Been working on this for a few weeks.
Got it started & running today.
Drivable.
Tuning: still in progress.

So the half-bridge-port is back in action.

I was just getting bored, so I decided to rebuild the bridge-port motor and swap engines.

Just finished up the break-in tune, so I just need to put the break-in miles on it. Then tune for the "go fast, fun time" of the motor.


This engine is way more drivable at low rpms than when it was running off the stock ecu.
And it doesn't quite sound like a bridge-port, might be because of bigger exhaust ports & RB header. Idk.

Ive got a few hundred break-in miles on the motor now.

I found out this morning that the 550's I had in the secondaries weren't enough for this beast. I think somethings actually wrong with them. "Getting on it" you could hear knocking like crazy, but the afrs were good.

So I swapped them with the 720s I had for my turbo.
Jamin adjusted the whole tune for the 720s, now its much better.
But there is still a little knocking when you put it to the floor, afrs around 13's.
So it needs a little more tuning.

So I found out what was causing the knocking. It was my secondary coil. Unplugged it. No knocking at all any more. We were able to tune it all the way up to the 8k rev limiter.

We gonna see you at B3R with this car? I hope so. Good luck.

So we've been trying to figure out the issue with the secondary coils.
I tried two extra coils I had.
Swapped in the 1st one, and it still knocks.
Then, swapped in the 2nd coil, and still knocks.
So the problem had to be something with the timing of the secondary coils.
We checked the timming and all the wires to the coils. All checked out but the timming on the secondary coil was a little backwards.
I think there's something screwed up with the ecu.
Anyway I installed another primary coil inplace where the secondary coils go. And hooked them up with the main primary coil, so they fire at the same time, 0-split.
Still need to give them a proper test drive though.


Also over the weekend I discovered a problem.
I was driving it home from a car meet.
I noticed it started idling poorly and it would even die on me (3 times).
I try to rev it up, it would rev slowly.
It had no power.
It sounded like it was running on one rotor.
It was backfiring a lot too.
I thought it blew a seal.
So I was going to just limp it home, but after a few miles the motor came back to life.
Ran fine the rest of the day.
That happened 2 other times over the weekend.
If you just rev it up and hold it around 4k rpm it'll clear up and run like normal.
So I think my front iron coolant-seal-land broke through again.

So the coil setup I have now works good. No problems.

Also that weird running issue I had turn out to be fouled spark plugs. I clean em, it runs good.