One car I did say was worth watching in real life was the Tilton interiors EVO! that thing was an animal with what I worked out as 800bhp at the engine.

Still low compared to last years efforts and they have a LONG way to go till they step it up to where the power levels should be. Honestly if we give them 10 years we might see some 1000bhp cars......... see what happens :ugh2:

I think all the real brains just are into other things mate, only the dregs do that Time Attack Rubbish :smilielol5: so there is a lag till you see repeated what was done before by other "smart" people.

I'd like to see a modern version of a Porsche 917/30

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYBtCJDQqqg

http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-pq...-1920x1440.jpg
Rear wheel drive
850kg
1500bhp!
endurance spec
250mph top speed
0-200mph in 10 seconds!
circa 1973 !

Wiki lol
See why "Modern" UNLIMITED Time Attack is FUCKED! (certified Joke)
The 917/30 was the most powerful sports car racer ever built and raced. The 5.374-litre 12 cylinder (90.0 x 70.4 mm) twin-turbocharged engine could produce 1,580 bhp (1,180 kW) in qualifying tune[citation needed], with twin turbochargers run up to full boost, 39 psi (2.7 bar), though it usually raced with around 1,100 bhp (820 kW) at 7,800 rpm to preserve the engine. Weighing 1,800 lb (820 kg), giving it a power to weight of 1967.36 bhp/tonne in qualifying tune and 1369.68 bhp/tonne in race tune. The 917/30 dominated the Can-Am series during the 1973 season. The 917/30 could go from 0-62 mph (100 km/h) in 1.9 seconds, 0-100 mph (160 km/h) in 3.9 seconds, 0-200 mph (320 km/h) in 10.9 seconds, and on to a top speed of more than 260 mph (420 km/h)[citation needed]. The high-level of performance and attendant fuel consumption of the engines, and ever increasing risk, has led to the 917/30 sometimes being cited as the car that killed Can-Am racing[citation needed]. The 917 was also the only championship winning car in Can Am not to be powered by Chevrolet.

TA = play thing for nobodies
 

Just to reinforce how full of shit those NEMO/GT Auto garage cunts are .........
Time Attack crowd in general (Hype Master).

Millen Toyota Tacoma
Running more down force than the wanker EVO abortion
Real 1000bhp @ Engine (3SGTE IMSA 2.1lt engine) 745kw
100kmh to 200kmh = 3.3 seconds!!!!

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3245/2...21533d7a_z.jpg

Millen Jnr Hyundai
Again more down force, similar weight
Only 520 kw engine
30kmh to 200kmh in 6 seconds flat!






Compre proven performer to this joke below (VBOX proven sub standard power! LOL)
Remember EMO EVO needs 6.2+ seconds to do 100kmh to 200kmh. It is very low in power more like 450bhp to 500bhp @ engine range like I said in Ian luffs shit youtube site lol where cunts were spewing out HYPE 900awhp rants LOL.
^^^^^ *ALSO* engine issues code for massive blow by (cabin full of smoke, smoke pissing out of engine on last corner onto main straight!) due to detonated motor trying to run more boost LOL!!!!, all that at ~500bhp let alone 900hp at wheels BS! fucking plastic trophy wannabe's learning to tune LOL.

Time Attack can claim the goods when you see a sub 3 second 100kmh to 200kmh acceleration and over 200mph @ Eastern Creek on the highest down force you can dream up (using a prod car body shape and 1000kg run weight)........... then welcome to 30 years ago where F1 was doing it on Atari PC equipment and stock std BMW engine blocks :smilielol5:
long long long way to go till the hype catches up with engineering reality... but it keeps the kiddies and loosers and the general after market battler industry going, so I suppose its a win, thank god generation useless is so stupid, otherwise they would have worked out that these really are nothing cars in the grand scheme of things.

Okay, if people feel the need to make new accounts to talk shit in this thread, then I'm going to start to delete more liberally.

Sure, RICE RACING is kept on a long leash, but at least he offers technical information.
If all you're going to do is submit a reply just to crap on him, then I'm deleting it.
If you want to call his BS, submit objective facts.
If your ego can't take his...choice of words, then don't read.

Oh, and it's obvious that anyone who knows anything about racing that those race results were due to something being seriously wrong with the vehicle to be able to put up a more respectable time.
But then again...I wouldn't be surprised if RR did that just to piss of the race organizers on purpose. :D

EDIT / ADDENDUM: The user whose reply I've deleted is supposedly legit and registered initially / solely to submit the single reply. Apologies if this is the case, but it does not look good for you if that was your first post on a forum. Whatever the case, the reply was still meant as an attack on RR's credibility, and I still stand on my decision to delete the reply in the first place; it does not directly address this thread or add any additional information - reminder: this is a TECH section. Although this forum does not have a central ToU page, if you have any questions on what you should or should not be doing, I will refer you to this lin:
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-forum-etiquette.htm



-Ted

Fact V's Fiction
 

Back on topic ......... We have got a few real men who are upgrading and fitting water injection and will be updating this thread shortly......... the only ever real way proven over the years to match those in line ~2lt 4cyl engines (the real ones not TA cars LOL) that are making near 1000bhp.

And will be proven with the real measures like in my 100kmh to 200kmh thread too ;) no hype dubious doctored BS dyno sheets :9898:

I await the upcoming info with baited breath.

I just wanted to note from my POV I seem to have noticed that some of the workshops that seem to be really successful or "look successful" are the ones who rip people off talking shit and marketing the crap out of things to a degree. Fudging Dyno figures to make their inflated ego's more bloated than a gonad with elephantitis.

And the honest ones have a hard time getting in front...

Other info that I would love to see would be logs/data of a rotary powered vehicle that is running a water injection system on a fairly high boost level say +18psi on OZY 98 pump through a "constant" "non stop"duration of say 5-6 laps. I would love to see how well this thermodynamic system works through torturous transient track style conditions. This to me is the ultimate test of Water Injection limits.

Max boost!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Got Milk?

I see you had to help out HC to get his car running lol....
Anyway post up some figures of what you got from your T04Z FD set up and WM50. :001_005:

Don Mega gag factor power sooooooooon? :leaving: Got some new shit I really should post up but some pretenders may nek themselves when they see how many years behind the game they are LOL.:seeya:

:sifone:

1bar
2bar
3bar
4bar
5bar
6bar so far? :o13: :lurk5: :driving: :icon_tup:

I've managed to get up to 40.5psi so far, still on 98 octane pump fuel (93 octane USA) and water injection. Still running inductive ignition and $3 sparkplugs with a massive 60" plug gap with no sign of misfire. The dyno says 740rwhp at 38psi. Whether it's accurate or not at that hp level I don't know. What I do know is that 40.5psi from a 75mm turbo is a fair amount of power. Enough to trap almost 156mph on the 1/4 mile anyway. I'll be going back on the dyno soon to try another couple of ideas I have, and probably more boost. It's at the point of diminished returns now though, we're almost out of compressor and I believe the turbine is starting to choke now also. We'll be fitting a larger turbo in the off season I think. Still sticking with the Series 5 engine/intake (TII) at this point.

Good job, oh and nice mullet :302:

braver than i, i've only ran up to 25psi on 50/50 meth/water/91octane but that poor 35R was already beyond its limit anyways and i wasn't up to experiment on a customer car.

i sometimes feel like just upping the jet in my car and seeing what that T70 will do before it grenades on straight water. that POS is ancient now anyways compared to current turbos.

Thanks. It's not a mullet it's a mudflap.

If you need some help just ask, no point re inventing the wheel or getting your donk BDC'd :lol:

well, really the only setups i've thrown together that have turbos efficient beyond 22-25psi are running ethanol in the tank. i simply haven't spent much time trying to push pump gas when there's better alternatives.

That is where me and mud flap will disagree with you :biggthumpup:

what is 'better' is just in one mans eye's v's another, but if you need help it is on offer, thus this thread.

I say there is NOTHING better than a real car :cheers2: that can be driven anywhere, anytime, and use the most common fuel around :tongue1: and make more power than people can on Roo16 lol or methanol in some cases lol, that is what I call 'better way'

what about failsafes? if you lose the water you'll be walking.

same argument applies to one fuel injector on a rotor ;)
on my system never ever had a system fail in over 20 years and over 1000 systems supplied :)
it is many times more reliable than any other "failure enducing' sub system that all engines rely on.
so that while a concern is a non issue............. unless of course you are taking advice on system set up from bdc or hc or the like lol

Well... according to bdc his meth powered non intercooled system was far better at removing heat from his charge air than my ducted tighter than a frogs asshole VMIC setup.... regardless fo the number of e6k screen shits he put up.... he still couldn't figure out the math... even when explained to him repeatedly.... and was more reliable than my intercooler.... still trying to wrap my head arounsd that one...

I am having a ccccuuuuuunnnnntttt of a day at work and you made me laugh :lol:

E6GAY LOL

Love those screen shots :drool5:

no one else using waterinj? with results?

hey Rice do you have any experience with the race logic performance box? I was looking into buying one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACELOGIC-PE...item27ceffc928

or maybe this one to gather at least a little bit of info.

http://www.gtechpro.com/ss_fanatic.html

I am Mr RACELOGIC ;)

What would you like to know?

BUY IT! and ask questions later, it will be the best investment you make ;) if you want to measure the performance of your car there is nothing better.

Hey mudflap, is your BW S475 just one of the $650 ghetto versions? .......... fuck they are good for the price! been using a few lately.

Also mudflap, no need for you to guess restrictions, BW have a fantastic tool (no ghetto spec BW's included though! you need to shell out and buy a race turbocharger version) to do all the testing you need, just need to feed it with some right info from basic testing etc.
This is a fully worked over 1120bhp 13B turbo set up I have done, for you to look over ;) YES IT WORKS IN REALITY.
Buy yourself a turbine speed sensor and a few pressure sensors and map this stuff, its not too hard to do :)
Nothing worse than guessing :)

Here is the link > http://www.turbodriven.com/performan...6_wrsin=92044&

Yes just the basic S475 but we modified the compressor cover for a bit more flow. You can't beat them for the price. Ours has had a real hiding and yet we have not had a single problem. And the thrust still feels as good as new. Even when street/circuit driving the lag is less than you would expect from a turbo that size and transient response is surprisingly good. It easily makes 25psi+ on the 2 step but it's no use to us as we get a better 60ft by leaving the line at 15psi or less - hard when the gate spring is 20psi.

Another reason why they are such good value for dollar - the wheels are balanced individually and parts are cheap, so they can be easily rebuilt at home.

The matchbot is flash but we've run out of aux in's for logging so don't have enough real data to make much use of it. Fuel press and turbine press have to take turns on the same channel haha. It might be time to change from the G4RX to an Extreme.

I like them too, took me too many years of being 'raped' by Garrett to finally wake up. :coolgleamA:

DILDO CANNON

http://imageshack.us/a/img689/1255/i...ygayjunior.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img35/9964/im...ygayjunior.jpg

when i first laid hands on the S475 years ago i couldn't believe the amount of turbo you got per dollar. it is quite responsive for that huge T6 frame on an engine that barely matches it in size.

it won't ever be as responsive as some of the mid frame BB turbos but the BB market is still anal about selling you all new shit when the turbos go south. fuck Garrett, the company you love to hate.. love the response, hate the price tags when the turbos do wind up needing to go into the shop. rather surprised no one has offered rebuild kits for them yet, regardless that ceramic ball bearings are not exactly super hard to find now. anyone who can mill a bore could probably find an oversize bearing set to work.

turbos aren't rocket science, though the manufacturers try to convince you that it is. 2 fan blades, 2 bearings, thrust bearing, 2 seals and balancing to handle the 120k+ RPMs they spin up to.

I have been everywhere with turbo's dealing with one idiot here who was manufacturing his own BB centers (lost count of how many failed!) in the end the old shit box plain bearings suspended by oil is all you need, and the cunts can be rebuilt by anyone and they are for 'like size' really no different anyway.

Got people who run these on Diesel tractor pullers at near 80psi boost! not dreamers like on the internets but cunts who know what a turbo speed sensor is, people make their own Titanium compressor wheels and upgraded thrust bearings etc etc.

Garrett, and the dreamers! can all go lick my dildo cannon !@ massive rip off and for really no tangilbe benefit except to their share holders LOL.

http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1361583399

1.5l 4 cylinder, 500hp at 1.7bar and virtually no lag above 4000RPM with redline of 10200RPM. The turbo they use? Garrett journal bearing turbo from the Cosworth V6 F1 engine, circa 1986. Just shows you don't need billet wheels, dual ceramic ball bearings, pixie dust or any other magic... just proper wheel sizing, proper manifold, and proper engine management (that engine runs life racing ECU with DBW).

Says the guy with a 3000 dollar turbo :p

Also, i noticed you're in calgary..
this forum seems to be three quarters south-eastern states and a quarter alberta. And Rice.

double post cuuuuuuuuuuuunts

They are a really good turbo.
This power in a full weight FD (1300kg as run) and stock gearbox (true road car) does
9.9's @ 146mph on ~ 29psi boost. (as per engine dyno test) 770bhp @ 8500rpm and well over 20psi boost at 4500rpm!



http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/239...ygayjunior.jpg

Didn't know which thread to post this in but this seems like a good fit.

RICE, a while ago I found you post this and i saved it because I saw the obvious value in it:

Is this true for ALL engines, (boosted / N/A .. carb'd?).

And the 25% - 40% value.. How did you come up with that? Experimentally or is there some math behind it?

Firstly I am no Oracle, or self professed guru on the topic ;) my 'knowledge' comes from a balance of 20 years readings/research on the subject (pre internet !), every 'paper' published, some not, face to face interviews with smarter people than me, non academic research findings from true pioneers (which I give credit too in my Aquamist thread) and a host of other sources that are not note worthy to mention on their own but all contribute.

Finally I then prove all of this myself before I state it as Fact V's Fiction :smilielol5:

That above recommendation you kept is my own experience that backs up my own research and that of others in this field for forced induction set up. NA I can not comment, in all of my years I have done little on that as 1) it never interested me 2) NA is gay! :o21:

The only caveat I will say in regards to what I have given and you have saved, like I say in my Aquamist 'rant' lol I only give out information that is a couple of years behind what I currently do, I am not a free service anymore like I used to be, as I found everyone who currently does this in rotary world ALL go off my old information, so I learned to keep my own IP to myself, until it is redundant to me and then I freely give that other stuff out. Needless to say my 'old' information to some people is all they need to know to be totally amazed at how good water injection is on a forced induction engine.

bumpski

I don't have any proof or anything but I've been running about 24psi on 91/93 pump gas with water injection (washer fluid actually) as a safety net, but I've been told I should still turn the boost down some lol.

Still only on 40psi boost but now with a larger BW turbo. As of last nights dyno session the car now has 640kw/858hp at the wheels vs the 740hp previously with the smaller turbo. Best trap speed with the smaller turbo was 158mph, 2400lb car. H pattern gearbox, 26x8 tyre, leaf sprung rear end.

I would have run up to 45psi on the dyno (map sensor limit) but the wastegate spring will only allow 40.5psi (280kpa). If the engine is still going when the season finishes I'll probably change w/g springs and see what it makes on 45psi, time permitting. I'm not holding out too much hope though, the engines done almost 2 seasons racing plus 2 powercruise events, dirt drags, and whatever else. I'm glad I didn't switch to E85 yet, pump petrol is starting to get real interesting now!

Good stuff, and YES I have always wondered why the fuck people accept the total head fuck of E85 when I proved (and you are now) water injection over so many years.................. beyond me!

Are you still using your IGN-1A coils? I have been given some special ones to test by a well known high performance manufacturer, and in the interests of science I may just use them myself.

Which BW did you move up to?

Peter

THIS is fucking insane!! :patriot:

That is just impressive as all get out. :willy_nilly: What ECU are you running and what size BW?

But but but.... bdc?

Oh really? I FINALLY have in my possession the Bosch Motorsports Coils (I've actually been using them for a number of years now) along with the IGN-1A coils (running my RX8) and a set of factory D585 LS2 coils (thanks Glenn) Whenever the FC does make it onto the dyno after I get her tuned to about 12-14ish PSI I'm going to swap coils, adjust dwell and make a pull. Whichever coil makes the most power, is the setup that will stay on the car. I think it'll be between the IGN and the D585, and I have a feeling it will be the D585, although the IGN was designed around a 2-stroke Merc outboard soooooo, it should be interesting :)

Same BW turbo as yours rice, but with a machined out 75mm cover and cast 80mm wheel, since we've got no room for the larger diam "race" cover (stock John Deere cover).

The IGN-1A's work well but I'm testing an ICE ignition again, out of curiosity.

Link G4RX ecu.

The car trapped 161mph today, 3mph more than it ever has. There will be more to come once we get a handle on the bigger turbo's power deliver characteristics + creep up on the tune/boost. It's really struggling off the line and in the first half of the track now.