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Compression Test:
#1 = 50psi #2 = didn't do |
What do we do with this thread, just let it die?
I'm taking the car to a frame shop to check it out. If the frame is straight or can be straightened I will attempt the engine swap. Until the frame shop! |
It starts and runs
Saturday I did the de-flooding procedures, it started and smoked, I keep it running until the smoke subsided. Drove it a short distance on the road, shut it off, restarted it, shut it off for the day. Sunday, I tried to start it, it would not start, started the de-flooding procedure again, forgot to press the gas petal before turning the key, it starter right up. Could this mean the engine is a good rebuild candidate? I've read the rebuilders web sites, they read, that most engines are too damaged to be rebuilt. |
Kevin Landers of Rotary Resurrection in Morristown Tennessee. He is the home of the budget rebuilds. Quality work with no bull shit. Until the keg is cracked open no real way of knowing the true condition of it.
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Quote:
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Update:
I have it starting (warm and from cold), warms to operating temperature, with no problems. I still don't know were the oil came from, I have ran it to temperature twice now, don't see any new oil leaking. Questions: Do I have a good starting low compression engine now? Where around the oil metering pump should I look (front, bottom, connects to the block..)? Should I premix to be sure? At what rate should I premix? I want to save this unicorn! |
Compression test will tell. No amount of arm chair diagnosing will tell you hard numbers.
Yes, everywhere the oil lines lead. Premix is considered good practice no matter what's going on with the engine. |
.5oz/gallon at every fill. And bllock the OMP as well with the RA adapter.
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I'm confused as to why you're still asking about compression without actually doing a compression test?
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