Then, once I have the wiring done (I've been meaning to do this anyways) I need to get the alternator bench tested.

I'm checking that connector I mentioned. . It's a white/black wire that I believe I was using. . Checking it with a meter, it doesn't have power in any position of the ignition switch so I'll have to find another source.

What about this. . Use an unused 12v injector wire from my Ludwig harness for the "L terminal"? with a resistor of course. . What do you think? This would definitely be the tidiest route to take. Or would resistance on this wire cause any unwanted problem/s?

I will do my best to remember to check it. If you don't have a text from me by 8pm tomorrow night, text me. It means I've forgotten

I would do it the way I posted about for testing purposes only. Once it's confirmed that the wiring is good, and the alt passes it's bench test, you've run it and it charges properly, there's no electrical whine, there's no current draw on the battery and you can leave it for a few days/week with no ill effects, than I would start looking for the factory wires.

However, if you're using the factory wires that you find in the harness, a few things are going to need to change in the car itself.
First, the Alt relay that controls the idiot light needs to be addressed. The B/W wire on the S4 chassis needs to be connected to constant power. Both of which are easy enough

That's fucked up. What's the connector originally for?

It would be the easiest, but I would not suggest going about it that way only because of the potential problems it could cause down the road.

Factory it's the FE-03 connector that's on the front harness that houses the wires for the alt. Page 50-16 in the S4 FSM I would find that connector, find the B/W wire and see if that has voltage, if it does, there's your L circuit (originally R) Then it's a matter of finding on the same connector W/G wire and ohming it back to the idiot lights. If you find that connector you can then tap that into anything on the dash harness (stereo) that has constant power. This is the new S terminal on the S6 alt. That would do it as well.

Alright, will do.

Alright, currently have one wire (S Terminal) temporarily ran to the battery. "L Terminal" pending till I find the proper resistor and a switched 12v source.

Noted. .

No idea, I'll share a picture of it later.

Ten four


I'll look into this

Test connector? ? was secured to the backside of the fuse block bracket.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3703/3...c7bbc5c5_c.jpg

Since this is out and it may not be wise to tap into an unused injector wire in the Ludwig harness, I will search for a different source later down the road. Till then I'll make temporary connections.

Oh, I took a picture of the resistors I have laying around. . What are the chances any of these are the right ones?
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3746/3...86e69a3e_c.jpg

Kewl

From the factory, that's where the two harnesses meet, down below the masters on the framerail

First thought was AAS and it does look like F-14, AAS connector, pg 50-80

That's kinda what I'm thinking.
The Alt charge wire is going to either the fuse block or the battery itself. Either way running them with the charge cable, like the factory did, would be the tidiest way to do it. It's just a matter of finding the proper wires and terminating them in a tidy way.

:rofl: Probably pretty good ;)

The stock S5 setup had the sense wire (larger white/blue wire) going to the EGI fuse in the main fuse block in the engine bay. The field wire (smaller white/black wire) went to the light in the warning cluster as mentioned previously. I left the field wire alone but since my harness is so cut up I spliced the sense wire into the headlight power circuit. I figure the electrical load increased quite a bit with the lights on so this would be a good source to use to tell the alternator to output more juice.

Exactly 100% correct. Although... I would check the output at the post on the alt just to make sure that it isn't overcharging.

Heres a nice page someone did on the alternator swaps and wiring them up.

http://www.rx7.org/public/altxref.html

Ok, so I went to go take a look at the resistors that I set up.... I did a little heatshrinking over the resistors so I couldn't identify them that way, I should've just ohmed them out, I'll try that tomorrow when I'm back at the shop, in the meatime, Ohms law tells me to start with the 150ohm resistor that you have and measure the voltage at the corresponding pins as per the FSM. There should be 1.2v drop across them

I swapped my trans/clutch this weekend and since the power harness was mostly disconnected I went ahead and removed it completely. . thing is haggard to say the least. It wasn't hard for me to pull the loom apart to expose wires since the electrical tape was rotted and crumbled away. The OE alt. wires for the "T" shaped connector were nowhere to be found. .

With this said, I emailed Chris Ludwig asking if this harness is something he can make. . If not, does anyone have any recommendations on where to get this harness or have one made?

Really simple Zac, locate the FE-03 connector down by the mess over by the masters.

It's a 6 pin connector on the front harness. It will have a B/W and a W/B wire there. Pin them out to make sure they work properly. If they do, than any sort of connector to jump from the FE-03 connector over to the Alt will work just fine. No need for custom harnesses here, as much as I love them ;)

Thanks Brian! Regardless of whether I find a harness or not, I may do this. Just to clarify things, this is the wire I will run with a 150ohm resistor correct? What about a diode, I read that it's recommended if wired a certain way but I'm unsure if I need this if run to the wire in the connector mentioned. . . Schawry, I schtooped on deez thangz.

Well, this is really more of a want than a need since the thing is in rough shape. There are exposed wire to the transmission connectors, busted connectors, broken wire/terminals at connectors, and unnecessary/unused connectors.

Cheers brotha!
Ok, I just thought of another option here....
Since the harness is fucocked right now, what you could do is re-task the leading coil wires since everything you need is right there :awesome:
The leading coil (and this is from memory so bear with me) has two wires that connect to it. G/Y and B/Y. The G/Y should be dead at this point in it's life however, the B/Y is off the main relay and will be hot with the key in the start and run position. So, the B/W wire can be used as the key hot with the resistor wired in place. Then since you're right by the battery anyway, you can connect the "sense" wire directly to the M6 bolt on the fuse block.
As a bonus you can replace the charge cable as well :)

Is your oil pressure gauge and low oil light still functional?

In that case what I would do is take all the connectors off the factory harness and use some Deutsch DTM connectors to replace all the factory ones.

Also, aside from the reverse switch, the other two switchs are no longer needed.

I like this, sounds simple enough!

I'd like to replace the whole thing, everything is brittle.

Pressure, yes but oil level is disconnected.

eh, I'd rather have this done by someone with all the tools and materials already in hand.

True, I didn't have them connected on the last tranny.

I meant to comment on this last week. . . This would be a great write-up/how-to but that's assuming one has all the OE wiring intact, not the case for me so I'll be building from scratch.

Thanks for the info though, it did help.

30 yo wiring is crispy?!?! Say it isn't so ;)

It should be relatively simple, I can only think of 5 wires you needs. Alt charge, Alt control *2, oil pressure and oil level. They should all be on that FE-03 connector

Welp, you can go here (I've been doing business with Joe for a LONG time) and get the kits of the connectors https://prowireusa.com/c-76-deutsch-...ctor-kits.aspx

Just order them with the solid pins. Then you just need this little guy
https://prowireusa.com/p-1813-deutsc...rimp-tool.aspx

There's no need. I just break the wires off at the switch.

.

^ Can't see on desktop or phone. . However I was able to see the shared pic from my email notification.

This it?
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...6&d=1489153450

I like that, is very useful. There's no gray area. . It is: Do it this way or this could happen. Pretty cut and dry, that's what I was looking for.

Hey Zach, quick note.

For the sense wire, you could technically run a wire from the B+ on the alternator to the pin, but the voltage at that pin is used as reference for regulating... If say, your battery is in the back, the voltage read at the battery will be less that at the B+ "output" of the alternator... This could make the alternator regulate the voltage .1 or .2 lower than it normally would in stock config, or what you would prefer.

so, its good practice to have that sense wire be at least a little bit down the line from the alternator... If stock its hooked up at the fuse box, its probably best to hook it up there.

I sent my decrepit harness off with a request to have these wires run within the new one.

But yes, I have done that temporarily in the past.

Wasn't able to get a harness made however I did find a salvageable harness off a friend's parts car that I can make work and have done in time for DGRR. .

While pulling the harness off I looked for the illusive alternator connector that was thought to be on the charge harness and that I presumably had removed years ago. . That is not the case, I confirmed it's on the engine harness. Glad that mystery is solved!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2880/3...3c07aa42_z.jpg

I've already removed tape and unnecessary wires from the salvageable harness like CAS, trans switches, and oil pan sensors. Once LMS EFI returns my old harness I'll run my alternator plug/wires before re-taping.

I've been away on vacation for a week, I come home to see my package still hasn't arrived. . I sure hope it comes in within a reasonable amount of time to get the 7 drivable for the Gap!

I would make other plans instead of hoping to get the parts.

Not parts per se but my old harness I sent LMS, I will need to reuse a few things off it since Charles' spare wasn't complete. I sent Ludwig an email. . communication has been slow via email so if this falls through I'll drive the Celica again. We shall see.

Since finding that the S4 alternator wires (R & L) are actually in the engine harness and not the charge harness like thought previously, I traced the wires in an extra engine harness to the connector located in the passenger side footwell.

I depinned all but two wires on that connector and will run them to the S6 alternator, however I'll only be using the "L" terminal wire. I thought it would be wise to run the other wire for the "R" terminal in case I need to replace the alternator and decide to go back to S4. .

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2848/3...f19e7a00_z.jpg

After redoing the harness and finally getting things corrected to make a happy alternator I found I still had a battery drain. . . I took the alternator to get tested and it failed miserably but this was good news in a way (the search is over, I hope). Unfortunately it was just too late for my S6 alt :nopity: the damage had already been done.

Reason why it was a wise choice to run that one additional wire? ? No S6 alternators in stock and were special order, S4 was next day :) So I got an alternator arriving in the morning just in time for me to have my car ready for DGRR.

Even after replacing the damaged S6, I don't think I'll be in the clear just yet. . . The "Charge" warning lamp doesn't illuminate with Key On/Engine Off and didn't illuminate while running with the damaged alternator. I'll check the bulb next.

It wouldn't be DGRR week without some drama Zach. See you in a few days!

Ha ha, see ya then!

Update. . The wires I added to support either S4 or S6 alternators do what they're supposed to.

With regards to this, it was because the S6 was toast. With the rebuilt S4, the idiot lights illuminated like they should:
Not wanting to give up on the S6 alternator, I rebuilt it by replacing the bridge rectifier and voltage regulator this weekend. I took it to Oreilly's to have tested and it passed! Success! !

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4220/3...ea77683f_z.jpg

I'll be back in business without any battery drain (I hope!) and with a properly functioning alternator when I get the car running again. . .

Update, I received the harnesses I needed to get the car running this month and got everything all buttoned up. Since getting it running I reinstalling the S6 alternator and have periodically checked the battery voltage for any severe draining like before. . There is none, everything functions as it should so the car is back in business :)

Thanks to everyone for your input and assistance with this. I tend to make a mountain out of a molehill at times but that's usually because I have no idea what I'm doing and need guidance on some topics so thanks again to everyone for the assistance with this.