http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-112A-N326

Its this one

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...-112A-N326.jpg

^ -- thanks :) i was able to order one from NAPA for now although i don't know if ill need it anymore :D

I did a lot today, oil change - the old oil, if you can call it that, was almost more fuel than oil. had a heck of a time getting the old filter off, had to drive a screwdriver through it about 5 times and use it as a lever to finally break it loose. also put in a new fuel filter, new leading plugs and new plug wires and the j-yard trailing coils i got yesterday. re-did the battery terminal connections on the wiring harness.

still can't find the clutch system leak though, slave cylinder and hose to the MC are dry as a bone and it doesn't LOOK like the MC is leaking but that's about the last thing to look at and replace. lifetime remaned for $79 from oreillys possibly. you get about 6-7 clutches before the reservoir is empty again.

i DID drive it around the block though :driving: after the oil change and all that and adding a gallon of 89, i said "well if it floods ill be swapping injectors but if it runs, GREAT!" and on about the 3rd crank (starter seems weak or strong depending on a whim, i wonder if its wearing out as it also gets stuck sometimes) it started to pop and then caught. revved up to 3K and slowly idled down to around 1000ish before i turned it off after i set the smoke detector off :rofl: i pulled it out of the garage and started it up again and drove around the block taking it to 7000 about 3 times or so, but it was smoking blue smoke like a SOB, i hope its just cleaning itself out and will clean up in time but.... i parked it after one lap and getting the coolant temp about halfway up the gauge as it was beeping at me (i think it was a low fuel warning as only that and the rear hatch idiot lights were on. the rear hatch needs adjusting to latch one side and trip the sensor i think)

Any idea why it would smoke like it is? bad oil seals? over-filled oil? (i put 5 qts in...) or something else? it seemed real smooth except for some popping on de-accel and a lumpy low idle around 500 or less after warming up. pulled pretty good too

Wait, you had fuel in your oil?:o11:

Reach up inside your car were the master cylinder bolts to the car, mine was leaking past the plunger.

You did let it warm up before you took it to 7 grand right? If you didnt that was a bad move..... The beeping could have been anything, i dont get a beep when my fuel light is on, the beeping is kind of like a check engine light for an s4, the pattern of the beeps lets you know whats wrong. Check the other forum in one of icemarks stickies for what each pattern means

Idle should be around 750 i believe, below 500 is definitely to low:icon_tdown:. Did you everr inject any oil into a spark plug hole to try to build compression? or did the previous owner try this, the may have used to much, that would explain a lot of smoke. How long is your block because if they didnt thats a very bad sign. If your block is short you may not have driven it long enough to notice any overheating of the engine.

Glad you got it running though, it feels good to make something work, even if its not perfect lol :icon_tup:

whats your exhaust system structure? Stock manifold? Any cats? If you had some longer term flooding issues, fuel will get soaked into those areas and take a while to burn out.

typical with flooding cars.

Wouldnt this mean bad seals though??

the oil was about the consistency of water and smelled like the varnished fuel i drained out of the tank.

i didn't do the oil trick but it seemed to have enough compression to start fairly easily. i think the 3 cranks was only because the fuel system was empty.

i ran it for about 5-6 minutes before i ventured up to 7000, i twas already the coolant temp was climbing, probably 1/4 up the gauge when i ventured into higher revs (only part throttle anyways) the "block" is easily 2+ miles around

it initially idled around 750ish but after the drive it was idling lower.

the beep was a 2-shot, "beep-beep.......beep-beep"

exhaust is a stock 2-cat (i think) system so it very well could be crap built up in the cats. it was smoking out the exhaust a little for a few minutes after i parked it.

I'll double check the M/C inside the car to see if its leaking there

well, found out what the 2-beep code is, but don't have a clue where to look to fix it

from the "other" site's FAQ "2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal:
The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.)"

Not really. Too much fuel will wash out the oil film in the engine. The fuel will make its way to oil.

we have this in our FAQ as well.

hmmm, i haven't been able to locate the FAQ threads here, im probably looking in the wrong threads/places

Also, i see that mazdatrix has the inner and middle boots for the 86-88 shifters but i don't see a lower bushing, just an upper....

Also, any idea on fixing the beep code?

for the 1st gen, 2nd gen and Trans / Diff faqs, they are at the top of their respective sections or in my signature.

I am not my laptop which has the FSMs, but i would go to the 2nd gen section, you should see the stickied thread with links to the FSMs downloads in PDF format. Download them. there will be some good information in there somewhere.

ok, i did download the FSM so ill take a gander through that for the beep code fixes, thanks

still trying to find the shifter seal, lower and upper shifter bushings and middle boot for less than an arm and a leg, but i don't know if i can. is Mazdatrix the only real place to get those aside from the dealer?

Call Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda.

do they ship?im in OH lol

Im going to be replacing the clutch MC and starter today and see how it goes. maybe get to drive it some more! :D

Also, i have scoured the web looking for a solution to the 2-beep code m getting but all ive found is a definition of the code, not where to look to fix it. Ive even looked through the FSM but i can;t find anything in there either. any help would be most appreciated :)

Yes, they ship. I know for me it is 5 dollar shipping on anything--but I'm in-state)Is your idle set incorrectly? When I had a beep similar to that my idle was set incorrectly and it was high so the computer spat at me.

AFAIK it is, it only idled low after driving it. Also the beep only started once i started driving the car

a properly set idle and an incorrectly set idle are hard to justify only by idle speed.

oh? what are the criteria for a correctly set idle on a rotary then?

AFAIK idle speed is the primary governor for a properly set idle on a piston car....

Look up the procedure in the FSM. I had to adjust the secondary throttle plates as well as the air bleed screw to properly set the idle. I doubt you'll have to do that though since it's usually set and locked from the factory.

ill look into that if it still is idling oddly.

im just waiting for a new starter. the goombah at auto-stoned told me it would be in sunday but didn't realize it was drop-shipping from the manufacturer and wouldn't be in til tuesday :cuss: i probably could have had one elsewhere by sunday but they were all more expensive and i also turned my core in at auto-stoned :( well, at least this should help with starting as the old one was finicky about how fast it would spin over and if it decided to get stuck or not.

replaced the clutch MC, it was leaking into the insulation and thats why i didn't see the leak inside the car. just need to bleed it and it should be good to go

picked up the new starter today and its a MUCH beefier unit than the one i pulled out. about 1/2"-1" larger diameter on the motor casing and they helicoiled one of the bolt holes. the upper one i believe, that had the long bolt through the rear end plate and a nut to hold the starter in place. i'll see how it fits today, i don't foresee a problem but you never know lol

Fuel tank drops out pretty easy after being drained :)

huh?

The upper bolt hole is a through hole. You're supposed to have a nut and bolt connect on the upper. If they helicoiled the lower, I could see that.

yeah, the top one was helicoiled for the long bolt and nut, the bottom was still just a through hole for the short bolt.

Got everything in and she turned right over and caught. revved to 3000 and idled down to around 1000. she's still smoking like a chimney though, blue and white smoke. as far as i can tell she seems to be running fine except for some timing issues. Im going to reset the timing today hopefully and see if that helps. L1 was misfiring a little (you could hear it when it did and see it on the light) and T2 wasn't firing at all.

Any idea what all the smoke could be? i hope to get a vid soon so you can see/hear what is going on. Also, after you rev it a bit to move it, the idle dropped to 500ish. I hope i don't need a rebuild :(

gas/oil, did one of your control rings let go?

beats me, it was mostly blue oil looking smoke after starting but after idling for a while that was subsiding then it started spewing whitish smoke. :confused: Im going to see if it does it again today when i try and set the timing.

When i changed the oil, it was overfull with gas/oil mixture, im wondering if this adversely affected some seals in the engine. Also, there is a little bit of rust in the radiator, could this lead to a coolant seal blowing out?

re-read your post, it was flooding out a lot before i bought it. that's what i believe was the source of the fuel diluted oil

Im pretty sure its not coolant as it doesn't have the trademark sweet smell. it smells like oil smoke and i think its burning a lot of oil, im going to double check the dipstick tomorrow morning (about 3 minutes after shutoff it was reading down 1/2 a qt from before i started it 2 days ago) im going to the junkyard tomorrow to nab a fan, pulsation damper and possibly the MOP as well. im thinking mine might be stuck wide open


btw, here's a vid of the smoke im talking about. its a cell phone vid (on dialup ATM) and i don't know why there's no sound, but it was idling at a good 750-800 and timing was bang on (i reset it and the idle)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...0429091942.jpg

I saw your problem! A magic dog wanted to appear... so it said "poof! I'm Here"

Honestly it looks almost like a sea foam treatment, but if you're burning that much oil something is definitely wrong. I would check your oil injectors to see if they're actually injecting the correct amount of oil into the system. If they check out I would then look at the fuel as a possible cause: AKA some one dumped in tons of seafoam and it's burning off. If the gas is good, then I would see where your oil sits after running it for a little bit. If it's gone low your oil control rings may have taken a crap and you'll need to rebuild.

i'll check the MOP (getting one from a j-yard today anyways). fuel is new 89 octane. i REALLY hope it doesn't need a rebuild, thats expensive :( it seems to have good compression and starts reliably right now so...

well, it looks like its eaten over 1/2 a quart of oil in about 30 minutes of run time. It was at the F mark on the dipstick when i first started it after all the work, now its down to halfway between the F and Add mark. It still smokes like a banshee and the MOP seems ok, the lever moves freely and all. the J-yard MOP was frozen and missing the lines and injectors so i didn't get it. It was also idling up and down between 1000 and 1500 before i turned it off. smoke got worse with rpms as well

is this probably a case of bad oil seals then? :( :banghead:

:nopity:

thanks.....



anyways, i'd like to see if its actually the MOP before committing to a rebuild. Does anyone have a known good mechanical MOP with lines for sale?

I might i will have to check tomorrow or saturday, wait, cant he just disconnect the rod for the pump and add some oil to the tank to premix and run without it to see if it stops smoking as bad?? MAKE sure you premix before running though

The MOP can't use anywhere near a pint in 30 minutes. During break in, I had the MOP on my 4 port maxed out all the time and it only visibly smoked at idle. (No noticable consumption in 45 minutes of 3000 - 4500 rpm break-in).

The old 6-port engine (199,000 miles) smoked like a chimney above 6,000 rpm (yes, higher revs make the oil pressure higher, which makes the oil seals leak more). The smoke should also let up a little as the engine warms up if it is the oil seals.

edit: You can replace the oil seals ($140.00 at the dealer). You will also need to replace the coolant seals and front cover gasket while you have it apart (about $150.00 for a gasket set).

what about if the MOP had failed and wasn't "metering" at all but had the full oil pressure going through the lines?

Thats what i was thinking, and sorry i dont have any good lines

thats ok, i found an S4 in the J-yard with a seemingly intact and working MOP. and theres an S5 too, maybe ill gank the tail lights while im there...:D

well, got the MOP, lines, and oil injectors along with a non-cracked pulsation damper and a non-loose visor thingy. all for $35 + tax (and i picked up a pry bar someone left on a miata :) )

going to see what the deal is this weekend i hope. Plus its not that hard to switch the MOP without pulling the radiator hoses, just the intake piping and air pump.

the S5 tail lights were already MIA though :(

if i need to do the oil seals, it will have to wait til i finish the trans rebuild for my DD...

Good to see you got it running again. That car about aggravated the living daylights out of me :) That's how much it smoked when I had it running, but it would go away after it warmed up. When cold and revved though it'd look like a forest fire in my backyard lol.

I pretty much checked out everything that's been mentioned so far, back when I was on rx7club still I asked about it and got pretty much the same answers lol. Let us know if the MOP fixes it, but I don't think it will, or at least I was told it wouldn't. Pretty sure it needs control rings at least. I still recommend you completely rebuild it, same as I did the guy that bought the S5 from me. You see all the problems he's having trying to avoid a rebuild :)