Rotary Car Club - 20b Installs

Rotary Car Club (https://rotarycarclub.com/index.php)

- 20B/3 Rotor Conversion.. (https://rotarycarclub.com/forumdisplay.php?f=132)

- - 20b Installs (https://rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=6751)

I will be very curious to see how this works out. I spent what I thought was a fair amount of money building my NA 20b. However, I paid a shop to do it. Even so, if you get this up and running and producing good power at these prices, you should sell a manual and video and everyone will be running them.

Your expected total costs are less than many 13b rebuilds...

Gordon

Quote:

Originally Posted by charlies7 (Post 91341)

Here is my break down if anyone is interested.

20b shortblock -- 1500 shipped, yeah I know I found a deal
20b rebuild -- all the goodies, heavy porting, balancing etc 4500-5000
(3) 13b housings -- price to be determined (prolly around 800)
Haltech platinum sport 2000 -- 1500
lS1 coils "smart coils" -- 150 bucks
Header -- 500 bucks in material (I did the fab work on it)
20b stock subframe mounts -- 100 bucks (again I did the fab work)
Electric meizere 55gpm waterpump refurbished -- 150 bucks
ITB's (untested) 250 bucks in material (again fabbed by me)
Misc. electronics, wiring, sensors -- 800

You're missing...
Clutch
Radiator
Possibly oil cooler(s)

On the street, you might get away with "stock" parts, but throw this car on the track, and it's going to overheat.
That adds an easy grand...if not more like couple grand more on the budget.

-Ted

I remember how many friends have shown me their build sheets estimating what their builds would cost. I generally found that multiplying by three worked out pretty well. Sometimes four.

I will also admit that when I was first doing this stuff, I made that same mistake. At least a mistake in hindsight. Others may be much more capable than I and my friends have been.

Gordon

A full 20b install will run about $25,000 over here at www.rx7store.net. That price include single turbo, ported motor, clutch, fuel, computer and etc.
FYI! here is a teaser pic of a motor I'm working on right now, this will be one badass motor. I should have it done in about a week.

Wow! peripheral ports X2? details please. Is it going in a NA and is it a 3rotor? I can't imagine the intake that is going to be put into this. Very nice monster bridge too.

it's a 13b turbo engine, hks t51 turbo

Quote:

Originally Posted by charlies7 (Post 91341)

I dont really understand how so many people can spend upwards of 30k on there 20b swaps unless a shop is doing ALL the work.

If your smart and shop around you can easily have a killer NA setup for under 10k. However I am fortunate to use the resources at my university and from the local help with tuning and wiring.

Here is my break down if anyone is interested.

20b shortblock -- 1500 shipped, yeah I know I found a deal

20b rebuild -- all the goodies, heavy porting, balancing etc 4500-5000

(3) 13b housings -- price to be determined (prolly around 800)

Haltech platinum sport 2000 -- 1500

lS1 coils "smart coils" -- 150 bucks

Header -- 500 bucks in material (I did the fab work on it)

20b stock subframe mounts -- 100 bucks (again I did the fab work)

Electric meizere 55gpm waterpump refurbished -- 150 bucks

ITB's (untested) 250 bucks in material (again fabbed by me)

Misc. electronics, wiring, sensors -- 800

That is pretty much what I have into the car as it sits now. Its actually less than 10k more like 9k and everything is basically brand new. All the 13b related stuff I sold off almost covered the cost of the entire build so I pretty much broke even on a setup that will be more reliable, sound awesome, and make great power. I cant complain.

If you do the porting and rebuilding youself can save $4500 which is my plan for my 20B FC.

Quote:

Originally Posted by zayrx7 (Post 95126)

I think there is a slight problem with your custom intake port. If you think of fluid and air dynamics, both favor the path of least resistance (which would be your side port). The side port pictured is a medium/large street port. The extra rotor housing intake ports will just distort flow and kill air speed. A flow test you can do to see how the ports flow, take your water hose and spray the water in the port following the path of the lower intake runners. You will notice little to no water will be coming out of your rotor housing port. Water has the same flow charactoristics as air. IMHO I would either go with the standard street port or go with a peripheral port. One or the other. I would hate for you to waste your time, money and efforts on this project and it not work out.

Before anything, that exhaust sleeve needs to be replaced with the 13BT/rew rotor housing sleeve. Maybe you just haven't gotten to that :D.

What happen after all,did the guy back out of the project?