Well then I guess I should go out and by a lift, since I need to bleed my brakes.

These jackstands are not going to cut it. :rolleyes:

This thread makes me laugh.

Well it looks like the terminator plug did solve my problems, for now at least lol.

I keep going on and on like a broken record, but the Autronic B Model is actually far more widely used than any of those other higher priced ones amount OEM lab's and racers, its got features that even the Horiba and ECM do not have and its far more applicable to us.

I still use mine on jobs where the customer has ca$h, for the other ghetto work I use the same as HKS do and that is the Neko AF700 (a great portable unit, and ONLY one with hand calibrated individual sensors, only other people who do this are McLaren Electronics *yes the F1 team! sparks division*).

And for super ghetto work I used to use my Innovate LM-1 :willy_nilly: but I gave it away for free to a person who had no idea about AFR toys, funnily enough he found the exact same "glitches" as Innovate have been shitting on and on about since Klause first invented His "system" & "lean misfire excuses" we then fitted up the Autronic and the glitches and lean misfires went away LOL! :rofl:

Moral is if you want a toy you buy a toy if you want a piece of scientific grade equipment you pay the money, you long forget how much you paid when an item works and is correct. YOU WILL NEVER FORGET HOW MUCH OF A TOTAL PIECE OF SHIT that toy AFR gauge is REGARDLESS OF HOW MUCH MONEY YOU SAVED INITIALLY.

yes. mine likes to pop one of the capacitors on the board, they actually melt.

AFIK you have to use the bosch sensor (which is a slow POS, designed to go ON a slow POS), the calibrations are different.

IMO its kind of ok, cause i was totally falling into the "the wideband must read a certain number!" trap, instead of looking for how well the engine runs, or power....

for example i put the WB on the PP just to make sure it wasn't too lean, WB said mid 11's, which is much richer than the 13.2 everyone throws out, but the engine LOVED IT. plugs didn't look dark either...

oh and it does help that a weber IDA is fuel only, and its only got about a 5x5 map, with fixed rpm points and it just interpolates between cells ;)

Actually my problems have yet to be the sensor as well. I tested both of my sensors after putting in the terminal plug and they both still work.

The one they shipped with mine is still working, and I believe it's the one I have back in the car now. How close do you have it to the turbo(s)? Mine is in the midpipe right under the shifter hole. Granted it probably doesn't get as accurate a reading if it were further forward, but I haven't had any die on me and I'm not using a heat sink either.

+1, but mine is probably just as accurate as the turbo location is. Air leakage would be downstream from the sensor as the pipe it's mounted in is just a solid pipe from the turbo.

I was hoping that this thread would help me make a decision. The one I did find and kinda like is this one from PLX http://www.plxdevices.com/wideband.php . It comes with the Multi gauge. but the bosch sensor. I have a rtek right now and I am still new to it. I am pretty sure my stock O2 sensor took a shit because when I data log I get about 0.02 volts at idle. well most of the time. I can't justify spending 1500 on a sensor. Maybe 250 to 300. I am running less then 10psi with a stock ported engine.