He was just torquing them.

I was more or less saying I didn't see the issue, in a smart alec kind of way :) But I get your point, especially if the wheels are aftermarket without centering rings and especially with flanged seat lug nuts.

Who's alec? He doesn't sound very smart... :dunno:

should he see if he has fluids in reservoir first? then see if slave cylinder is moving..

there is fluid.

A little leak goes a long way, and the level might not be affected enough. It is something that should be done, and takes 2 seconds. lol

clearly... which is why I said "there is fluid".

You weren't specific!! Thought you meant there is fluid in the MC reservoir. Lol.

If there is fluid under the slave cylinder plunger boot, replace it and add an SS clutch line if you don't already have one. They're cheap.

Oh I think I misunderstood what you were saying to check. I actually have a new slate and an ss line in my mazdatrix cart. Waiting to hear back from Adler about a flywheel and counter weight.

I think I may have mentioned that I developed an idle surge. I initially had the screw in the top of the TB backed all the way out after the emissions removal and it held around 900RPM.

Lately its been idling around 1500 and surging to 2000 intermittently. So I was reading on the other forum about it and found one thing that said adjust the screw so I screwed it all the way down and it brought it back to around 900-1000. After I started driving it the idle jumped back up to 1500 but didn't surge any more and then settled back down to 900. Still no surge so thats good.

Do you think by BAC could be bad? I know i dont "need" it but it does help with idle speed. I suppose I could unplug it and see how the car responds.

There's a procedure for adjusting this screw in the FSM. IIRC, while idling and warmed up you have to ground one of the pins in the green check connector located elsewhere in the engine bay and then adjust the screw so the TPS voltage is within a certain range.

EDIT: In the '89 FSM it's in section F1. Pages F1-15 and 16 cover idle adjustment, pages F1-40 and 41 cover idle control and checking the BAC, and page F1-83 covers checking the TPS. Found here: http://www.wright-here.net/files/man...mission_NA.pdf

It wasn't the TPS I was messing with. That we got adjusted correctly a while ago. I'm referring to the "idle screw" on top of the throttle body/UIM.

^ Yep, you can't just turn the screw one way or the other without making the connection on the test connector.

Kyle, that's what he's taking about. . There's more to it than just turning the screw.

Check your manual.