Why not do both? We crimp and then solder the connections at our shop because the EMS is very sensitive to resistance. If you crimp for strength and solder for reliability, you get the best of both worlds.

Soldering creates resistance and can introduce corrosion which can lead to even more resistance. Just crimp them and walk away ;)

So where do we want this? Rotary Tech? Fabrication? ECU products?

Plus another thing with soldering connections is that, if you do not clean the flux off when you are done over time that flux can cause many issues with conductivity and integrity of the connection.

Sry for not posting pics yet, i got lazy today. lol.


ZAck.

You're gonna get banned Zach. Just saying. Unless of course your car makes it to DGRR.

I've really been thinking about making the trip. Do you have a link to all the info on the 5 W's and how?

But ok,ok, here's a shot of the connectors themselves. The two small ones are 12pin 16awg connectors, one is for the cas wiring and coils, and the other small one is for the injectors. The bigger one is a 21pin 16awg connector that will be used for all sensors(including all the greddy sensors and a few other things i'm running through) when i finally get the harness out i'll post more.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...c/321eadb7.jpg


Zack.

Why not build an entirely new engine harness?

I would've made an entirely seperate and new harness for the engine, including injectors/CAS. Then used the heavier gauge ones for the power coming off the internal fuse block going through the firewall and all the other headlight/turn signal, washer, horn's everything else in the front of the car and hidden it behind the fender. Hiding it behind the fender with those connectors will be tough though

Did I do bad for just ordering a single plug for passing everything through?

I was looking at the body harness today actually. I couldn't help but think how big and ugly it was. I really wanna slim it donw and hide it. I prob will end up moving it into to te fender. It really only is used for the accessories(lights,markers, turn signals). I'm not using the stock coils nor the wiring for them so it's just taken up space.

Zack.

Another big issue with soldering is that it makes the wire less flexible for a section (where it wicks up) this will cause a stress concentration and fatigue failure at the edge of the solder for any wire that vibrates (like all of them in the engine bay). Crimp is better.

Believe it or not, there's not as much to come out of that harness as you may think. And if you're like me, you put some in. I added Efan relay, fogs, 2 relays for the lights and a horn relay just becuase of how I have everything wired up. The 2 sets of 3-wire 20ga tefzel for the speed sensors.

The AAS can come out as well as a few other things from the engine bay. Tucking it under the fender is a MFPITA!

Don't get me wrong everything has it's place. Soldering can make seamless connections between wires, though as has already been mentioned they can become sources of failure. The best application of connective products is their appropriate location. For permanent connections with minimal movement a good solder joint is hard to beat. For locations where movement is expected crimps will be the best bet. Additionally one need be keenly aware that there are different types of solder and they're engineered for specific applications with different flexibility, heat, and electrical conductance.

This is from my Haltech E6X harness. I bought it brand new.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...f/DSC_0637.jpg

Wait, the harness was brand new? As in you didn't make that mess, a "professional" did?

That's correct.

And people wonder why Halteck harnessi suck and many have reported trigger issues, weak injectors etc etc etc. That's embarassing