So I went out and fiddled with things again; this time I took some video. I don't know how to embed these so direct links will have to suffice.

First, here's the behavior when cold:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Next, fully warmed up:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Last, here's after revving the piss out of the engine. Notice the coolant level:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Just for giggles, I think I may have found an exhaust leak. Yes, I know I should not be revving the engine like this:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

I don't know... It really seems like a fire ring has decided to let go.

Yeah, it wasn't too happy starting this morning. Basically, I've already started looking for engine stands, hoists and other tools needed to pull the engine. Likely going to start the teardown this weekend.

Ouch, after looking at the videos, I have to agree it looks like a teardown is needed.

I wish i had time this weekend to come down, I have an engine hoist i could bring with me.

Well any doubts the engine is fried have now been eliminated. Started the car after work and even though it started right up it sounded like it was only running on one rotor. Eventually the engine caught itself and I was able to drive home. Got home, shut it down and changed, came out to start it to depressurize the fuel system and it absolutely would not start. It took me 30 minutes to start it again and the same thing happened - started on one rotor but after a few revs and about 30 seconds the second rotor kicked in. Pulled the fuel pump connection and let it stall out and started the teardown. Can't wait to see what exactly happened.

Started the teardown last night. Found something interesting. Note the line for the oil injector on the primary port for the front rotor. That couldn't've been good for the engine!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_7...6-29-59_30.jpg

Eh, that's not as bad as it could be. I'd be a little more concerned if the primary oil line was broken (the one that sits directly on the rotor housing).

well do you premix?

I haven't thoroughly inspected the other lines but they seem brittle as hell. What are these things made out of? What should I use to replace them?
Nope, never saw a reason as the engine was stock and I assumed the oil injection system was working just fine.

You can make your own I believe out of PTFE, but I'd have to double check to make certain. There's a few write ups floating around about it. You could also order from Malloy and pick up some factory ones which are pre-formed for proper installation.
What's that adage about assuming...?

Starting pulling the engine apart and found some more interesting things. Notice all the oil buildup. I think there was something seriously wrong with the front rotor/housing/iron - this thing is nasty.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_7...-26-40_629.jpg


Here's a picture of the auxilliary port sleeve for the front rotor (far upper right port in the previous picture). Again, note the oil buildup.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_7...-28-08_459.jpg


Now here's the rear sleeve. Notice how this one is basically spotless but there may be a reason for that. When I tried to turn the actuators the drive the sleeves I could not get the rear to move AT ALL. It doesn't seem like it has moved in a while.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_7...-28-25_313.jpg


Now some spark plugs. First picture is the front rotor and the second is the rear. It may be hard to see but the plugs for the first rotor are noticeably "wet" while the plugs for the rear rotor are dry. Looks like oil to me.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_7...9-30-14_77.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_7...-30-59_350.jpg

That looks about normal for a long life engine. Maybe you should clean it more often :p
Yes. That however, is not normal. My thought would be that the oil from the broken feed line has weeped into the gasket and soaked through that and has been deposited over time into the back wall portion of the sleeve. Something to consider is that the same debris that caused that build up also probably went into your combustion chamber.
That is an easy fix. Mine did the same thing until I broke it loose. Use some penetrating oil (pb blaster and the like) on the internal chamber (you'll need to spray it into the hole) and on the shaft, let it soak in over night. Then chuck the actuator in a vice or secure it to a wood block and push the shaft to break any of the other debris. Flush with more penetrating oil. Once cleaned lobe some lithium grease onto the shaft and work it into the chamber via the shaft (don't try shoving it into the hole). That should free the actuators right up.

This doesn't make sense... :lol:

How does an engine coked in oil look normal?! 105k miles is also hardly what I consider a "long life engine". Hell, I've only put 5k miles on it in nearly two years of ownership. This also isn't a show car. As long as it (was) running I didn't really care how clean it was inside or out.
This would be a good idea if I intended to keep the 6 port engine. The actuators themselves are fine, the front rod is stiff (LOL) but moveable while the rear is completely seized.
You know what I meant! This is my first rotary so I'm still used to diagnosing issues in piston-engine-speak.