go here
http://www.mazdatrix.com/b5.htm :puke:
and buy 11-plug..... you'll need it before you finish the front stack..... or before it comes off the stand anyway....

Oh, yeah.. I saw that on the atkins site as well. I'll pick one up once I have more monies in my account :(

werd... lemme know when you do and I'll shoot you some Summit part numbers as well and theres still the gas crap

Buy 1 of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-12333
And 1 of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fr...4-bl/overview/
And 2 of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220166b/overview/

awesome build, looks like top notch work. did you get a weight on the rotors after the milling?

i also recently rebuilt my FD engine with s4 n/a rotors, but im still breaking it in. cant wait to start tuning it in boost!

Thanks a bunch man!! I really can't take any true credit for the quality of the build though, it would have been the same old crapshoot from the same old crooks if I didn't have people like Brian around to make build suggestions (and actually do the labor) and the different shops (like Chip) to take care of making all the pieces to my little puzzle turn out perfect!!! I'm just the thankful owner :lol:

Here is the complete blueprinting sheet I got from Chip when he was finished with my rotors:

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...Balancing1.jpg
http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...Balancing2.jpg

Here is the link to what Mazdatrix holds each generations rotor to weigh in at: http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/rotorwgt.htm

(note: FD rotors weigh 4328g (9.54lb), the S4 N/A rotors weigh 4553g (10.04lb), and mine weigh in at 4099g and 4243g!! Happy dance!!)


Dude, tell me about it!! I can't wait for Brian to get a free weekend again and bring his ass back down here so we can finish the build!! I'm gunna be a break-in FIEND looking forward to that boost tune!!

Unfortunately we're going to hold off on a full power tune (18-20psi+) until I can get rid of the PFC and put a decent ECU in there. With this engine and turbo I absolutely hope that I'll be making around 500whp in the 20-23psi range, potentially more. Wastegate (13psi) should net me around 400whp which will be PLENTY for bouncing around town ^_^

Brian,

I remember you mentioning that fuel lab had some decent filters (that came with mounting brackets). Do you think I should pick one of them up instead?

I was looking at this one:

http://fuelab.com/virtuemart/fuel-fi...fuelab-filters

Or this one:

http://fuelab.com/virtuemart/fuel-fi...fuelab-filters

You want the 10 micron filter, and you're going to be running -8 lines so you would want this one to reduce adapters.

http://fuelab.com/virtuemart/fuel-fi...fuelab-filters

Side note, why does your balance sheet say 20B and have a date of 6/17/09? It looks like that was his balance?

I think the -10 filter to further reduce any pressure drop.

Honestly that's a good question on the date and why it says 20B. I really don't think this is Chips 20B though.

Unless the actual body/media of the filter are a larger diameter on the -10 model it won't help you, and will introduce more chances for leaks.

True.

Mike, you made a good point and I called up Fuel Lab to ask if there was any internal difference between the -8 version and the -10 version. Internally they are the same, the ONLY difference is the fitting size.

So I think I'll actually end up going with a -8 version with male fittings on either side:

http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...dProduct=28191

See if I can't work a military discount :suspect:

If you are able to work up a discount order up two, and I'll pay ya back :)

PS Black please

Ok, so a quick update:

The other weekend Mike and Bawb came down, we put the front stack together then.


As it was alluded to earlier in the thread, we will also be revamping my fuel system for this.

The basic run-down is this: We'll be completely pitching the 20 year old hard lines, all of them. We will run a -8 feed line with a FuelLab filter, then break apart to -6 engine bay lines in parallel, with a -6 return line. I'll probably (hopefully) snap a bunch of pictures while we are putting it in, then post up a separate DIY write-up thread.

I was doing some research on parts needed and pricing at www.summitracing.com this morning, for now I'll put up the list of parts and prices.

- 6x -8 hose ends, straight (Summit Racing® Hose Ends SUM-220890B) $41.70
- 10x -6 hose end, straight (Summit Racing SUM-220690B - Summit Racing® Hose Ends) $48.80
- -8 bulkhead fitting, 90deg Aeroquip Bulkhead Adapter Fittings FBM2794 $16.95
- -6 bulkhead fitting, 90deg Aeroquip Bulkhead Adapter Fittings FBM2793 $9.95
- -8 to dual -6 y-fitting (Summit Racing® Y-Fittings SUM-220108B) $26.95
- Fuel Filter (Fuel Lab, with -8 connectors)
- 15’ -8 Hose Summit Racing® Stainless Steel Hose SUM-230815 $64.95
- 15’ -6 hose (return line) Summit Racing® Stainless Steel Hose SUM-230615 $57.95
- 10’ -6 hose (nylon) (Summit Racing® Braided Nylon Hose SUM-240610B) $59.95


I intentionally went slightly longer on the hosing than what I may end up using. My thinking is that it's much better to have it, and not need it, than need it and not have it.

i'm pretty sure that type of hose will make the car smell like fuel. There is another kind (more expensive usually) that blocks the vapors from seeping.