It could be a clutch or throw out bearing.

Indeed.

I was reading up on Mazdatrix about similar symptoms. now that you've said this though i guess ill have to think about something else. Trans mounts should be here in a day or two. I told them a joke in the comments section and they (Himni) upgraded me to 1 day shippings because i made them laugh haha.


I guess thats getting added to the list to then. So even though its happening when I'm off the clutch it could still be either?

wiggle the shaft to check for u-joints and backlash



giggitty

Wouldn't you rather me wait until you're around for me to wiggle the shaft? :suspect::smilielol5:

PMed with Tracking Info...

Thank you Bae! I even included dielectric in the clips..:rofl:

youbetcha!:tongue1:

Ugh.
Their stuff is crap...


-Ted

Well that would have been nice to know. What's to bad about their stuff? Seems like it would be kinda hard to mess up a poly mount.

got the trans mounts in the mail, short throw/bushings, inner shift boots and new knob will be here today. I'll probably go ahead and put that in. Now I'm just waiting for the new trans brace to come in and then ill do the mounts and see how everything feels.

Since I've started driving it leaks seem to be getting slightly worse so it looks like ill need to do the oil pan gasket and brace next.

Don't bother with the gasket those things are useless. What you do is pull the motor... ;) Drop the oil pan and let the car sit overnight so ALL the oil that's going to leak down... leaks down. Than re-seal said pan with The Right Stuff.... make sure you use the right stuff... and it's actually called, Right Stuff. Make absolutely sure everything is clean and wipe it down with some acetone. Put that shit together and let it cure for at least 24 hours in the warmth before adding oil.

If we're talking about comparing it to the stock OEM ISOLATION type mount, then it's garbage...

Remember the old adage?
If it's too good to be true (i.e. cheap), then it is...

The stock type mount (this goes for the engine and trans mounts), are two studs attached to two plates of metal with a rubber sandwich in between them.
This allow both compression and pull forces to be absorbed by the mount itself.
All these cheap-ass vendors who sell this crap built these mounts that can only handle compressor forces; they do not isolate the pull forces, as you're asking against the bolt / fastener.
What does this all mean?
You get increased vibration through this cheap-ass mount...
It could possibly damage something else, as now your mount does not isolate tension forces...

You get an inferior mount, because they are too cheap to build a proper mount...
Anyone can get a block of (insert fav...rubber, polyurethane, nylon, UHMW plastic, aluminum, hockey puck) and drill a hole in it and slap on a nut and bolt...


-Ted

Ha Ha, that summed it all up right there in one concise answer! :biggthumpup:

He forgot to add BDC's preferred material for engine mounts...... a block of scrape 2x4 from home cheapot.

You all laugh because you think I'm joking. He actually defended it.

Fair enough. I had Banzai poly mounts in my last car. I actually really liked them. I didnt get too much extra vibration from them surprisingly. But they discontinued them. I guess if the Himni version ends up being bad i can always go back to stock or mazdaspeed version. But like i said, i really based the decision to buy more poly mounts off of my last experience with them.

I'll always value your words Ted.

I guess you're still running all factory mounts then Zach?

Im not laughing.... after all I've read about him I'm not surprised....


On another note.. i just finished the install of my short shifter. Yummy:biggthumpup:

I forgot how much i liked it. and it feels SOOOOOOO much better than the stock one. although its much stiffer. I guess i just need to drive it an break it in some. Or maybe add some more gear oil to the shifter hole? any suggestions on that?:Wconfused: