I was under the impression that you really can't do much extensive porting on a renesis due to its design. But.... I'm not anywhere near an expert.

it's just an opposing view....don't get upset about it. Also, nit-picking and opposing views isn't the reason why the rx7club is hated. Just leave that can of worms alone for now though.

What's the next step in your FC3R project?

damn, that was a lot of typing rotary resurection...lol. got time on your hands?

for the most part you made a lot of sence. and i already understood about the front cover/length part. its not a problem. although i MIGHT be the first to put one in a FC. im not the first to put one in something that is not an rx8. i know of one in PR that has done it. a mud buggy did it. the plane from RWS did it. plus i mocked it up. its not a problem.

and i did ask my self why mazda had been replacing them. but i know the answer also. there is 2 oil injectors per rotor. each facing the side at an angle. thus lubricating the cornerseals and side seals. not the apex seal. resulting in loss of compression and variating dyno numbers. they have now added a 3rd oil injector in the center to fix this problem. they were just trying to keep it a secret that they made a design flaw. so when these motors are being replaced. your actually getting an 09 motor with 3 oil injectors. i'll be pre-mixing as i do with all my cars. problem fixed...

and its true about not having much room to port in these. i wish i had a bad iron from a renesis to experiment with. but they are hard to come by at the moment. but i have seen pictures of a bridge port renesis. and a semi-pp renesis. only pics, not running. so i dont know how it turned out.

plus i think the key is to go with the 4-port. its the exact same as the 6-port, but the upper 6th port is just filled in. the castings are the same. they just dont mill out the 6th port or however they create the ports. this leaves room to port. but like i said. i wish i had a spare unusable one to experiment with.

Well, for what it's worth, I think it's a neat swap, but then, people think I'm nutjob crazy, too.... (ie, installing a Megasquirt standalone on an FC because I didn't want to find all the problems in the hackjob wiring harness on it... it's a matter of selective lazyness).

Has anyone built a turbo renny by just throwing some old 13b turbo rotors & counterweights in? Wouldn't that be easier than sending rotors out to be milled and such, or are the side ports in the ren designed differently enough that it would cause problems with the side/corner seals?

There is an "assist" seal on the RX-8 rotors which is designed to protect the oil control rings from the heat of the exhaust as it wraps around the side of the rotor out the exhaust port......I know there's some people who have boosted the MSP engine in its natural form, but I'm not aware of any cases where they've used the older rotating assembly - and those assist pieces may be some of the reason why not.

if the OMP doesn't line up you can always solve it with premix!

i havnt heard of anyone using old 13b rotors in a reni. but i know of a few people to put reni rotors in a older 13b.

i think the problem is the side seal placement.the side seals are further outward toward the edge of the rotor. so maybe the reni would eat corner seals. im not really sure. i havnt checked myself. i remember seeing that somewhere. so dont quote me.

why does the power level matter? rich people daily drive a 599 GTB Ferarri, and that car has 600horsepower. I think that if you can legaly register, insure, and drive the car on the street every day, then it's it's a daily driver.

Last i checked, those were the only prequisites.

To the TS:

Thank you for posting this over here, I knew edit: some people would love to see this swap!

-Max.

double post

Well because they are rich and they also have upwards of 6.0lt of displacement that is powered by months of development by highly qualified engineers and only a few years old of a car if that. A modified car is a little different, lacks the smoothness of production.

also what if to solve the soft iron portion, you nitride them?

maz777... have you ever owned and daily drove a 400+ WHP rx7? there no daily driver. i have 2 as of right now. just because you can drive them legally on the street. dosnt make them streetable.

RotaryResurrection. you seem to be pretty up to date on the renesis. i see that the front covers are thinner on the reni, but i still dont see the problem with the pulley. when i put the front cover on with the pulley. theres still room. weather i use the RX8 pulley, or a FC pulley. i even put a 1st gen one on there and it was fine. it goes all the way on without touching the front cover...

did you ever see it not fit? or are you going off a thought? i just want to make sure. it has me thinking im doing something wrong here...

I understand your point, however, that doesnt mean a modified car can not come damn close...

I remember reading quite a few articles about JDM and Euro car tuning, and how some tuning shops pruduced cars that went fast as balls, but yet still offered factory like comfort, full interior, A/C, and what else.

The RE-Amemiya street FD3S is a good example... it is fully road legal, yet whoops everybody elses ass.

There are companies like EXEDY can make a clutch that will withstand 500hp, yet still feel close to stock, while an ACT unit will feel like hell in comparison.

-Os Giken makes a new puck style LSD that exibits none of the typical rumble, clunking, and noise of lets say, a KAAZ.

My point is, that yes, if you modify a car, you will no doubt make it "less streetable", but with at least some effort, and quality engineered parts, and some smart thinking, you can create a really fast car that will still be "streetable". That is how you build a street car.

If you build a race car however, where you remove all emissions, sound deadening, gut the interior, install a roll cage, really hard suspension, all spherical suspension joints, loud ass exhaust, and a host of other mods that make a car unstreetable, and then bitch that its "unstreetable", then isn't it your own fault? :D Shouldn't you have thought of that when building the car, right?

^

definitely, there is always are exceptions to every rule.


what?

Okay I didn't know they were factory nitrided but by making the metal stronger it made it more brittle so that is where I can see the cracking possibilities.

just as a follow up on street cars vs. race cars, there's the thread about a red FC being built by a 45 y.o. guy as a "street car". It's a prime example of what I'm talking about.

Pull off that fancy schmancy 3-stage intake, and I'd like to see what kinda power it makes?
That intake system does a lot to add to the power output.


-Ted