idle fuel mixture screw is near the map sensor, someone couldve adjusted it to too rich when the car did have a vac leak now you're too rich at idle causing you to stall.

I reccomend adjusting it according to the fsm.

I don't suppose that you have a wideband, but maybe you can use the RTec to read the narrow band O2 sensor. It should be go into the rich region and never leave it until it gets into a higher gear and is cruising.

Obviously a misfire will cause an erroneous lean reading, but you should be able to watch the trend.

Stalling does occasionally happen, if I pull my '91 into gear right after it has come down to low idle (I have set to 600 prm) without giving it gas, it will stall. If it is warm, it won't.

I dont think that my car is supposed to have the idle air mixture screw, it's an S5 model, I think only the S4 had that screw.

As far as stalling goes, my car stalls ALL the time when warm, I would be cruising with water temps over 178-F, and if I put it into N and release the clutch, it just drops RPM and the engine dies...

Hey guys, so I was wanting to know something...

Are the primary injectors supposed to be running at 100% duty cycle when the car is at idle?

I thought that it would run them a lot lower...

also, how many inHg is the MAP sensor supposed to hold? I tried to test it with a vaccum pump and it looks like it wouldnt hold vaccum.

(When I put my finger over the hole, and pumped the vac reading was fine so I know the guage works.

^That's not right. They shouldn't be running more than 80% at redline, let alone at idle.

ok, i figured out the injector thing.... it was primary injector ratios at 100%, not pulse width. sorry for the confusion.

right now I'm awaiting a new map sensor. After I get it, I will redo some stuff with the intake manifold.