hey what did you use to paint the engine irons, housings, and plenum?

Thanks, though I've been so busy with work that the project is moving very slowly. I hate it when real life gets in the way of my fun time. I just got home from putting in 8 hours after my 8-5 shift. We've got a special event going on in a couple days and the boss and I are putting in mad hours making sure it goes smoothly. I'll be there late tomorrow and the next day. I might put in a half day on Saturday just to catch up on things that are falling behind because of prep for the special event.

Irons and housings are rattle can high temp paints. I used high temp primer and I used aluminum primer for the housings. I also put a couple coats of clear on.

The plenums, block-off plates, front cover, pulleys, water pump housing, turbo compressor housing, turbo charge pipe, and inlet ducting are all powder coated. Oh I've also got an Infini IV bar that I have the ends powder coated. Eventually I'll get the actual bar as well as a spare set of 4 piston brakes powder coated.

are you sure that's Hot Wheels? i have a Matchbox car (when they were still quality made in Lesney) and i think that's what that is. i remember my sister and i burying one car each by my mother's job when we were kids and then i bought another one after i got into Rx-7s. sometimes i still think of going by my Mom's old job and trying to dig it up - only thing is i may get arrested by Homeland security. LOL. :)

good stuff in this thread!

Thanks, I've got some more pics and progress but haven't taken the time to upload the pics. Engine is assembled, I worked out the vacuum and fuel plumbing yesterday. I made new OMP/MOP hoses. I cleaned the engine bay a little bit throughout the week. Got a new ACT clutch kit on and I'm doing the transmission today. Hopefully the engine goes in today.

The car is on the work bench...and you are correct. It is a Matchbox. About digging it up, I think you should definitely do it today...make sure you wrap a towel around your head beforehand for added effect.

Slowly between work and more work I'm getting things done.

I made new OMP/MOP hoses..Don't know why the first pic rotated?? I know some people leave the hoses bare rather than put the sleeving back on so that they can see whether oil is traveling through them. But I think I can see enough at the top before they go under the UIM. That and eventually I'll be putting woven cable sleeving over everything. Wanted to keep that theme.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...45311743_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...42678868_n.jpg

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...38070561_n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...19454605_n.jpg

This broke taking the hoses off. I plugged it with some RTV and a tiny screw. I've removed most of the vacuum solenoids so I'm simply tapping off an unused nipple on the UIM for the other OMP/MOP injector.
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...47161681_n.jpg


http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...36240068_n.jpg

Blurry but you get the idea
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...51308760_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...82451663_n.jpg

My goal was to have the engine in yesterday. BUT I took the n/a engine to a friends shop for eventual teardown. It's 20min. away and I apparently lost my studs for the a/c and p/s adapter. I spent a good amount of time yesterday first driving to get a engine mount bracket. Then learning I needed the studs. Then getting there and realizing that I needed the nuts so I could do the double nut stud removal trick. Leaving now to put the finishing touches on and HOPEFULLY put the engine in.

Transmission is bolted on. A/C and P/S is bolted on. Gotta figure out which of my 4 engine mounts are in best shape and I should be good to go.

I'm going to make a separate thread cause I don't know how many people actually look at this...but here is a question I've come up with.....

When removing the duty/boost solenoid should I depin it from the ECU? And should I remove it at all?

My build is in my signature. S5 JDM engine, N370 Rtek 1.7, RB REV TII exhaust, Hallman MBC. I've removed all the solenoids accept the PRC. I've got the rats nest on but with vacuum caps on everything no longer used.

I'm planning to depin 2M which is the VDI on N/A and knock on turbos. Should I depin 3R (Duty/Boost Solenoid)? Or with the Rtek should I be keeping the boost solenoid intact?

I've seen the other thread, but I'll reply here...

It is my understanding that the (stock) ECU looks for resistance in the circuit.
If it doesn't see the required resistance, it triggers an error code.
Your plan of depinning the wiring harness should end up throwing an error code...
The good side is that this doesn't trigger some ugly limp-home mode - it just causes the CHECK ENGINE light to come on.


-Ted

Thanks Ted. So ideally I want to keep the ECU pinned. And also keep the solenoid plugged in, but cap the vacuum. That keeps it from doing anything?

I'll have to do a little research. I once knew what needed changed from N/A harness to turbo harness but have forgotten it. I thought depining would solve those problems.

Soooo close to trying to get it to turn over.

1. I had to order spark plugs...I should be able to pick them up today after wrok.
2. I have to top off transmission fluid. It burns my ass that I need 2.5 liters and the bottles come in 1 liter. I had a cheap moment and held off on buying a 3rd bottle of Royal Purple fluid....$60 for tranny fluid makes me cringe.
3. Obviously I have a couple electrical/ECU issues to work out.
4. I need a fuse for my efan
5. Gotta work out vacuum hoses for my MAP, boost gauge and OEM BOV...speaking of which I have a question that I'll post a pic about.

I've read about using restrictor pills for boost gauges to keep them from bouncing and MAP for even readings at the ECU. I've stolen these off the previous N/A engine. Is there any reason why I can't use these check valves?

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...79415470_n.jpg

Yup, these check valves don't really restrict airflow all that much in the "open" direction, and they completely block airflow in the "closed" direction. That's not what you want for plumbing the MAP pressure sensor or a boost gauge - what you want is a restriction in the airflow, which has the effect of dampening the transient pressure spikes your MAP sensor or boost gauge would see.

The restrictor pill is a little plastic thingy with a tiny hole thru it that fits inside the vacuum hose. Most of us loose these when replacing old worn out vacuum hoses. You can fabricate one pretty easily as follows:

1. Get a straight-thru style vacuum hose coupler.
2. Fill the inside of the coupler with some epoxy putty or JB weld.
3. Before epoxy fully hardens, run a pin through it to create your restrictive path for airflow.

Advance auto parts has those restrictor pills, they are like a buck.

I don't own any epoxy or JB Weld. I cut open the vacuum hose from the N/A sensor hoping I'd find one. But no luck.

Thanks you!! I need to go there tomorrow anyway and was gonna ask. Sounds like I can get the actual part for cheaper than rigging something up.

I did some reading tonight and just about have my ECU and electronics worked out. What I couldn't remember from years ago when I read it last was this.

1. N/A harness VDI needs to change to knock sensor. Y/B wire on VDI is wired to the knock sensor. I don't have a knock box so I'm not concerned about it. For now I'll do nothing and see if I throw a CEL. If I have to I can solder a patch cable from the knock sensor to a spade that I'd plug into the VDI harness. The side that corresponds to Y/B.
   
2. 6 Port Injection on the N/A harness needs to change to duty solenoid. My N/A harness is in gorgeous shape so I didn't want to cut it up. I took my old N/A to turbo harness and cut the duty solenoid plug/harness off of it. I soldered wires with spades to that harness. I bolted the duty solenoid to the TMIC support on the driver side. Plug in the harness and put the spade terminals into the N/A 6PI harness.

For now I have the solenoids from the N/A engine plugged into the appropriate harnesses. I took the time to measure resistances on the solenoids.

Duty solenoid = 31-35ohms
all the others = 36-37ohms

I've been waiting for my oil filter adapter to show up from Prosport. I ordered it almost a week ago and it hasn't left Florida yet. USPS accepted it in on the 21st in Tampa and in 5 days time it moved from Tampa to Opa Locka. Priority shipping FTW :banghead:

I guess I'll leave the sensor wires unplugged and worry about the adapter and those gauges during my first oil change.

Who knows I may try to turn it over tomorrow night after work.

That's good to know - when I was in need of one of these and asked for "restrictor pills" and described them, the local Advance/Auto Zone counter guys were clueless and looked at me like I had 10 heads!

LOL, I know that feeling. Fortunately, one of the Nissan drift guys from my friends shop works at the Advanced Auto just down the road from me. I'm betting if I describe what I want he'll be able to work it out. The guy actually has a really nice S2000 that he modded into a permanent hardtop with a kevlar roof.

I have semi-success. The engine turned over with very little effort!!

The engine doesn't stall out and holds idle perfectly. I can take my foot off the gas and idle is even and low. I stopped and started it several times and it never missed a start. I only let it run for short intervals before I shut it down to check coolant levels, oil, signs of leaks, etc. After a few starts I did raise the RPMs up to 2k and held it there for a little bit.

HOWEVER....
there is substantial smoke coming from behind the turbo. It's coming from between the turbo and LIM. It doesn't smell like coolant or oil and I'm not leaking any fluids. But it also doesn't start smoking right away. I'm hoping it's just something burning off. I do have a turbo blanket on there. Do those burn off when they are first used?

The exhaust does sound like it has a leak..obviously I'm hoping it's not one of the gaskets between either the manifold or turbo. I did have trouble tightening the top downpipe bolt that sits closest to the engine. I did buy the turbo used as a replacement...hopefully I didn't get a junk turbo.

I'm also concerned about the cooling system. I don't have any leaks. I'm not loosing any coolant. And that is part of my concern. I'd think air should be working it's way out of the engine. I did a pretty good job of filling it...but there has got to be air that needs to come out....and the level never dropped. The return hose from engine to radiator got amazingly hot. The OEM temp gauge never got above halfway, but the hose, top of the radiator and even the water pump pulley got very hot. The top of the radiator got too hot to touch and I shut the engine down. Another concern is that my electric fan never kicked on. Those two things combined and I decided to let the engine cool down before something very bad happened. I checked the inlet hose at the bottom of the radiator and it was hardly warm at all. My concern is whether the coolant is traveling through the engine at all.

Another concern is that I never saw any oil traveling through the OMP/MOP lines. I have clear hoses and I didn't think to check them until I had turned the engine off for the night. There was no sign of oil in them.

Oh and all of my aftermarket gauges were not reading correctly. The boost gauge is pegged at max and never moves. It's been pointing the same since I took it out of storage.

The water temp gauge never seemed to move, nor did the oil temp. The oil pressure is a warning gauge and I haven't set it correctly yet. So all it does is beep at me.

All the gauges are electronic ones and I'll check grounds and such tomorrow after work. They all illuminate correctly, so that's one good sign anyway....

Can't call it a success yet, but I've got some encouraging signs anyway.

Not a surprise...
As a rule, allow turbos and any kind of wrap to smoke for at least 30 minutes.
Some will smoke significantly.
Once the items all get to regular operating temperature, give it at least an hour before the smoking will stop.
As long as it doesn't smell like burning gasoline / oil / coolant, don't worry about it too much.


-Ted

Thanks again Ted. I'm using your guide for engine break-in guide

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/breakin.html

Combined with with Lynn Hannover's first start up guide
http://www.knology.net/~rv7rotary/St...rst%20Time.htm

I did not take manifolds off and check apex seals. I did pour oil in the oil filter holes. I did the outer hole and turned the engine by hand backwards. I did that a couple times. I poured oil in the center hole. I did not take off the oil pressure sensor. I have normal oil pressure, but is it possible I have air trapped and that's what's keeping my oil pressure up? I didn't get any sign of oil having travelled through my OMP/MOP hoses. Also my oil filter was very hot. Hotter than normal.

I'll do some reading over lunch on burping air out of coolant and oil systems.

Wow, that's some procedure just to make sure the oil system is working properly!

Typically, I prevent the engine from firing by disabling the fuel system somehow.
Usually easiest is to just unplug the fuel pump connector on the driver's side rear shock tower.
You can also just disable the stock ECU by pulling the EGI fuse under the hood.
Crank the engine over a few time, and this should be more than enough to prime the oil system.
If the engine was recently rebuilt, I'm sure liberal use of oil on all bearing and internal engine surfaces (or use of an assembly lube) was done to prevent damage from initial start-up.

How are you monitoring oil pressure?
Are you just looking at the stock oil pressure gauge?
If this is the case, the stock oil pressure sensor could be bad or failing.
Increased resistance in the circuit will cause the gauge to read high.
I would recommend installing a good quality aftermarket oil pressure gauge; if you can get one with the more expensive pressure *transducer*, those are more accurate.

As for oil temperature...
Do you have an aftermarket oil temperature gauge installed?
IR temperature gun on the oil filter?


-Ted

Yes the procedure for priming the oil system was a PITA and I ended up with lots and lots of oil on the garage floor.

I've pulled the EGI fuse in the past for flooding, but didn't do it for start up. I was actually expecting the engine to turn a few times without firing up.

Right now I'm monitoriing oil pressure with the OEM gauge. It read like normal the whole time. If I held the RPMS up the pressure raised if i let it down it dropped. I forget what the second to the highest mark on the gauge reads (80 or 90) but it hovered around there and then when the RPMs dropped down to near 0 pressure would drop to around 30ish.

I do have aftermarket gauges, all electronic. I've got Prosport Water and Oil Temp, and their Premium for Oil Pressure...the one with the warning. I also have a Greddy v2 boost gauge. I have not setup the pressure gauge yet so it simply beeps at me. I was trying to set it while monitoring everything else, but had too much going on. All the other aftermarket gauges did not seem to be working. I've got the Prosports all wired into common wires for everything but their sensors. Common ground for all 3, common lighting, ACC, etc.

I don't own an IR temp gun, but the oil filter got hot enough that I wish that I did.

It was getting late in the night so I didn't have time to really mess with much of anything. I checked for leaks and didn't find anything and at that point it was 10:30.

I was getting CEL blinking but didn't even have time to pull the code.

Tonight after work I'll try and get all these issues ironed out.

I believe I worked out my electric fan issue. Turns out I remembered the wires on the electric fan harness incorrectly. I'm using a Ford 2 speed fan. I assumed that solid black was ground....when in fact Ford chose the ONLY wire that is something other than black to be the ground. For the record, blue on the Ford efan is ground.

My new problem with the fan is this. I had my TMIC bracket lying on top of the A/C and P/S bracket while messing with my oil filter. It fell off and ended up hitting the positive terminal of my battery. Many sparks were had and it scared the shit out of me. I blew the inline fuse going to the efan. Now everytime I plug a new fuse in and plug the efan harness in that fuse blows. I tried disconnecting the battery negative and it kept blowing fuses. I disconnected neg and pos and it still blew fuses. At that point I ran out of fuses.

I've checked all the other fuses on the car and none are blown. My thinking is that I've got the the efan hooked up to high speed not low. IIRC on high speed that fan pulls like 40amps and my little mini inline holder only goes up to 30amp fuses.

When I originally wired in the efan I thought I was wiring in low speed and ground. I had the ground wire wrong. When I changed the ground to the correct wire I kept the power wire the same...which I'm betting is high.

After breakfast I'll be going to get a regular sized inline fuse holder so that I can go up to 40amps. BUT I'll also be moving it to the low speed. I simply hate having the efan as the only mini fuse in the car.

Here is how I wired in my efan..it's taken from a guide on 7club
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...37927412_n.jpg

I followed a modification of the diagram for manual switch to turn the fan on regardless of the temp switch. I'm wondering if the mod I followed is correct. It has a toggle switch wired inline between the thermoswitch and 86 on the relay. After following the mod it dawned on me that having the manual switch there may not actually turn the fan on. It would only allow the thermoswitch to do it's job IF temps rise to the point that it would normally turn on. IF that makes any sense?

To better clarify the manual switch. I used someone's S4 diagram as a reference
http://www.13betc.com/images/tech/s4onerelaysm.jpg

After I wired it in I started thinking. Simply putting a toggle switch between the thermoswitch and the 86 on the relay will not create continuity and thus turn the fan on. Won't it simply either allow continuity to go through if it is on and block the continuity if it is off?

Yeah, the toggles switch just kills the circuit even if the thermoswitch is triggered on.
Your circuit is wired in series.

I think what you're looking for is for the switch to be wired in parallel to the thermoswitch.
This allows you to turn on the fan regardless if the thermoswitch is triggered not; in another sense, it's a failsafe switch just in case the thermoswitch fails and never triggers!

Side note, I have never come across a thermoswitch (especially a cheap one) that is reliable enough to depend on for my main coolant fan trigger...
Those thermoswitches which rely on a "probe" pushed into the radiator fins are notorious for failing.
Having a back-up switch to manually turn the fan on is always a good idea!


-Ted

Updates: I was going to take the car down the road and see how it drives, test the ACT clutch I put in, etc. Pulled the car out of the garage and quickly realized that I had not bled the front brakes from when I put on the Tein springs and Tokicos. Turns out that was providence. I hadn't put the hood on yet and as I'm pulling the car back into the garage I see a shower of oil. I developed a pin hole in my oil cooler line. I've got a spare set from the N/A engine. But I'm thinking about the stainless steel ones, either that or taking my bad hose to a brake shop or truck shop and asking them to make a stainless hose.

I've tracked down one problem with my aftermarket gauges. I had not tightened down my common ground bolt. I had left it hand tightened. Oil temp gauge is working as it should. Water temp I believe is dead. The warning oil pressure gauge is still not reading anything. All it ever does is warn me and show zero. I went to Prosport's website and it says:

Q: Can I wire multiple gauges to the same power and ground source?
A: Yes-each gauge draws about 1 ma.

Q: Can I mix Premium Series gauges with Performance Series Gauges?
A: Yes. Keep in mind they need to be wired separately as the wiring is different. The two light up the same colors, but have different bezel profiles and slightly different bezel color.

I've got them going to common ground, ACC power, common lighting. The Premium gauge I then run to constant power. Of course each gauge is wired to it's own sensor/sender.

I switched sensor wires for the oil and water temps and it seems that the water temp is dead. Oil temp will read both water and oil temps correctly. Water temp will read nothing. Even when no power is to it it sits at around 190. It does an opening ceremony, but never drops below the 190 mark.

I've got an oil leak. I believe it is from the 4 port adapter for the aftermarket gauges. With my troubles getting the Prosport pressure gauge to read anything and the leak...and the water temp being dead. I'm very tempted to simply loose the adapter, use my oil temp as my water temp. Worry about my pressure warning gauge a little later...possibly doing the adapter for the oil cooler hose return line.

I'm using a Starion thermoswitch in the back of the water pump housing. I definitely want a manual switch. The idea of being stranded by poor wiring is enough to make me want to kick a kitten.

I already have the manual switch wired in. I followed the S5 diagram, but added the manual switch like the S4 showed. Sounds like all I need to do is leave that wiring in place and still soldered to 86 on the relay. Then just take wiring direct from the thermoswitch to to 86 on the relay.

What I'm tempted to do is wire in the manual switch to the high speed of the efan, but for now I just want to have the car leave the driveway :driving:

Got the oil cooler hose replaced. I used the older one off the N/A because I was afraid I didn't store the newer one of my turbo well. Now I've got the newer but not properly stored one on. I started the car up and let it warm up...no leaks from the hoses so far.

Before work tomorrow I'm taking my old hoses to a brake shop so they can quote me on making stainless woven hoses. If the OEM hoses fail again I'll have some made.

I created a fuel leak at the front secondary injector. I've been partially taking the UIM off but not disconnecting the coolant line from engine keg to throttle body. That causes me to have to set the UIM on the LIM kinda awkwardly. I bet I knocked the fuel rail in the process.

Ugh, I believe I've corrected the leaking injector. But I took the UIM off and found some coolant on top of the engine. Pooled in the pockets where the LIM meets the keg. I ran out of time last night but tonight after work I'll find out more.

Sounds like the hose between the rear iron & TB puked, or possibly one of the small hoses (TB to BAC valve or BAC valve to water pump housing) is leaking.

Thats what I'm hoping. I've been taking the UIM off repeatedly working out the solenoids and also my adapter for my aftermarket gauges. I haven't been pulling the hose to the TB off just pulling it awkwardly. I'm hoping I simply loosened something.

Also on first start up I didn't have the BAC hose clamped at the BAC. But that was a week ago and I would have thought that would have evaporated off by now.

I'm hoping that the leak isn't coming from between the LIM and keg

I took the UIM off completely to (hopefully) fix a fuel leak where the front secondary injector meets the fuel rail. I didn't previously have that leak but I put different o ring on and I'll find out in a little bit if that fixed it.

Oil cooler hose fixed
Fuel leak hopefully fixed
Coolant leak hopefully fixed
Hopefully tonight the car can leave the driveway.

Oh one question. If I want to put the manual switch for my efan on high speed can I simply wire the switch into the high positive wire and leave the ground through the relay? Should that wire have an inline fuse at the battery?

Welp, definitely not in a good mood tonight. Coolant is leaking from between the LIM and housing. Or at least I've checked everything around it. No leaks from any hoses, no leaks from the sensors on the back of the water pump housing. I guess this weekend the turbo and LIM are coming off.

Is this diagram correct for a manual switch on a S5?

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...09616596_n.jpg

I think I have found my coolant leak without taking the LIM off. BUT now I have either a wiring, CPU or factory alarm issue. Everytime I start the car my driver door sensor triggers my horn and flashes my lights. They don't pop up but the do light up. After the engine has been running, if I close the door the lights flash once and the horn blows.

I also seem to have the oil leak taken care of. But I'm using used hoses so I'll be keeping an eye on them.

Gonna pull the CPU off my old vert and see if I can swap them. My concern is that the old vert is an 89, the new one is a 90 with airbag. Hopefully there are no differences in the CPUs. I'll check part numbers soon as I have them both out. But I've also got some reading to do. I remember people having issues with the CPU and OEM alarm and it has to do with having to resolder...I can't remember the rest of it.

I've also been able to tighten up some of the exhaust bolts. I was able to get all the bolts from turbo to manifold. I could get the bottom bolts on the manifold to engine. Could not get to the top bolts on the manifold. My plan all along has been to take the car to an exhaust shop and have them hang the exhaust properly. My RB exhaust has the typical driver side tip being lower than the passenger side. While doing that I"ll ask them to tighten the suspect areas down better.

The engine is not idling as smoothly. But I haven't done anything with the CAS or TPS. I started testing the TPS by memory of the process. It might be bad... if my memory serves me correct.

CPUs are different. I opened mine up to find this

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...41225945_n.jpg

We do extensive electronic repairs where I work. A coworker is a car guy. I'll take it in on Monday and see what he says. I'm sure he can replace the suspect areas. The chard circuit board doesn't look very repairable though...but I'm far from an expert.

The car had problems with the alarm before this. It would spontaneously go off from time to time. I had originally thought it was a sticky passenger lock switch.


I can buy the board from mazdatrix for like $90. Anyone have a used one I can buy??

Update: Coworker replaced some caps that were leaking. He can't read the color indicators on the swollen and chard resistors (?). I tried plugging it in with just the caps replaced and it was actually worse. The alarm idiot light is on all the time and the door light is on all the time.

I've got someone for 7club sending me an old CPU of theirs. High beems don't work on that one but it will make due for now. The guy at work is interested in piecing one good one together out of the two bad ones.

Also the exhaust gaskets arrived yesterday. Turbo and feed lines are unbolted. Downpipe is unbolted...but I probably have to unbolt the downpipe at the presilencer also to get the turbo off.

Once I've got the manifold off I may cut the OEM heatshield so that I can get to all the bolts. Either that or I may get some of the exhaust wrap and use that instead of the OEM shield.

So incredibly frustrated

Got a new CPU from Mazdatrix
Got the engine to manifold gasket replaced
Got the mainifold to turbo gasket replaced
Have the efan wired properly...though I may go back and put larger gauge wires in

Started the car up tonight and it's got a horrible vacuum leak. It whistles and stalls. I was too worn out from helping a coworker with a surveillance system install to mess with it. Guess I'll start taking things apart tomorrow and find the leak.

If the leak is that bad I wouldnt take things apart. Instead, pull the AFM and fab up a cap/plug with PVC fittings from HD or Lowes. Then pressurize the system with your compressor.

Here's a vid we shot of our test setup.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cFiOfUFofo

It includes an TMIC bypass pipe so we could get at all the potential leakpoints in the rat's nest and intake manifolds.

We also made this vid showing how we used dry ice in a watering can to make seeing the source of a leak easier to find. If you smoke that'll work too. Unless you have a pulsation damper leak in which case you might blow up! :sifone:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5Gluq4rGwI

Hope those help.

Interesting idea....though I don't own a compressor. I'm actually thinking of paying someone to finish this up and work out the bugs. I simply don't have the time to work on it and when I do find time I find myself rushing to get as much done as possible and I start making mistakes and missing things......like great big vacuum leaks.

sounds like mine i havea few leaks that I gotta get taken care of think ones a oil pan and then my fuel line is cracked and i see that one pretty clearly...

I have barely touched the car in a week. I did some car stuff but not engine related. I believe I worked out a wiring mistake I made with my boost gauge.

I also bought some JDM fog lights and am in the process of polishing the lenses....matter of fact I took some pics I'll post.