Now you know why I practically live in the shop as much as I can stand it.

The wheels I got came with almost new 235/45 17s on 8 1/2" wheels. I'll be trying to figure out how to use the tires, but I'll most likely have to step down in size to a 235/40 or shorter so I can keep the front low. Have to see when I get to that part.

There will be a lot of modification in the front to go as wide as I can. The K member will be an aftermarket tubular Mustang setup with the SN95 Cobra brakes and rack. Planning on going with an SLA setup to eliminate the struts and free up some room. Sooo... a little more modification will just add to the fun.

When I get to bodywork I need to look at reshaping the front wheel wells so the 17s look right on the first gen. Most 17s look too big in the wheel wells up front (personal opinion). Haven't got much choice if I want to run the 13" front brakes though. Again, will need to look at it when I get to that point.

I'm trying to avoid the wide body modification if I can and still get a decent size tire under there. Gotta do it the hard way. :lol:

Might as well post this while I'm waiting for the primer to dry.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8105/8...62f70545_n.jpg
third link enclosure by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Have to put reinforcement plates above the lower control arm mounts, then I'm done with fabricating inside the car. I think.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8380/8...c1a8d8b9_n.jpg
dragster2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8...1cc28b6a_n.jpg
dragster3 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Looks really dumb with the stock wheels up front and the 17s in the rear. :lol: It's sitting a little high in the rear, but not as much as the difference in tire sizes makes it look. Control arms are all in and the floor pan is sealed back up. Waiting oh so patiently for swaybar parts to get here. :toetap:

I would talk smack Gunny, but shit man that looks good. I know you still have the front to do I know it has to feel good to get it rolling!

Thankee kind sir. Have quite a bit left to do to finish the rear, but the suspension part of it is in. Had to get it moved as the crap was piling up under there pretty bad. I need to get the shop cleaned up before it gets to the point where I can't see the floor anymore.

Not sure whether I want to take it to DGRR like this though, it looks pretty lame with the stock wheels up front. Not too sure how well it would handle either.

The rear axle is complete and ready to drop back in. Brake lines on axle fabricated, sway bar mounted, reinforcements installed, final welding done, primered and painted. The weather finally warmed up enough to get the undercoating on today, so should be able to reinstall tomorrow when it's dry.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8252/8...98e6d6a4_n.jpg
axle_complete1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8...0e1ee1b8_n.jpg
axle_complete2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

It's on it's own wheels and moving under it's own power again. :hurray: Test drove it for a couple of miles getting it up to 55. Tracks straight, no rubbing, and nothing broke, so far. Must keep the demon Murphy away.

I have to take it down to have new exhaust pipes run over the axle tomorrow. They were a problem when I lowered it enough to compensate for the tire height. I had to remove all the tabs and bracing I was no longer using and reroute my fuel lines to make enough room to tuck the pipes up higher.

The pictures are of the modified interior, I'll take pictures of the completed suspension once they get it up on the lift tomorrow.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8525/8...b65eed02_n.jpg
modified interior 1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8105/8...3cd73353_n.jpg
modified interior 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8528/8...9a74ea40_n.jpg
modified interior 3 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Plan on stitching up some black carpeting to go over the wheel wells and trimming up the plastic a little more, eventually.

Whooot!

Look at this pimp wagon!!! Dude it's come a long way, and looks amazing. I can't wait to see it complete. we'll deffo have to do a proper photo shoot with your car when it's done, even if i have to fly out to KS

Eventually I'll be bringing it up your direction cheebs. Might have to make a run to Great Falls when I do, so get on the deuce.

The adventure definitely continues. The exhaust shop says they can't run the pipes the way they have to go, mostly I don't think they want to take the time that would be necessary. I'm having them run it part of the way and I'll have to complete the complicated part myself. I knew I should have bought that pipe bender. :(

Rear suspension .. done, Brakes .. done, Exhaust .. done. Have to get in some road testing and it should be ready to roll. I'll get on the front suspension sometime after DGRR.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8253/8...7b4ea308_n.jpg
completed rear suspension 1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8110/8...50367ae4_n.jpg
completed rear suspension 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/8...5cb95d44_n.jpg
completed rear suspension 3 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8536/8...4114bf7e_n.jpg
completed rear suspension 4 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8123/8...1b7c5375_n.jpg
completed rear suspension 5 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

:)

Oops! Forgot to post up the photos of the '93 Ford Cobra brake master cylinder install. It's a 1 inch bore (25.4mm) master cylinder.

It worked out extremely well. I only needed to elongate the mounting holes (and lose the top and bottom bolts on the SA booster) to make it fit. I had to use the SA booster as both the FC and Ford boosters would have hit on the clutch master cylinder. I got rid of the stock spacer and the center dropped right into the booster. Adjusted the length of the operating rod a little bit and I was in business.:)

I used the Ford proportioning valve and rear line pressure adjuster that came with the Mustang conversion kit. Replaced all the brake lines with new. The stock SA (drum brakes) emergency brake lines dropped right on the Ford calipers, as if they were made for them. E brake is mucho better than stock.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8242/8...cae36cb6_n.jpg
Cobra brake master cylinder 1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/8...7c6c3b19_n.jpg
Cobra brake master cylinder 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8261/8...68c5a1b3_n.jpg
Cobra brake master cylinder 3 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Even though I only have the large discs out back, with the stock SA discs up front, the braking is a VAST improvement. Can't imagine what it's going to be like when I get the 13 inch discs up front.

P.S. Took my previous nemesis corner today, full throttle through first and second. No more going sideways when the tires give up. :hurray:
The things some people won't do for a little entertainment. :suspect:

How did you adjust the booster push rod to match the MC? Did you just go by feel or "eyeball" it? I'm curious because I'm doing a 929 booster/MC swap into my FC and this is something I'll likely have to do. There's a whole spiel in the FSM about setting the proper push rod length but it requires a number of SST's that no one has access to.

Trial and error mostly. I just set the master cylinder plunger cup against the booster rod and kept adjusting the length until the master cylinder sat flush against the booster without any pressure against the plunger and no slop from being too loose. It seems to work fine, I have good brake feel and no drag.

It's a good thing they used a rod that can be screwed in or out for adjustment, someone was thinking when they designed it.

That's what I figured. I've convinced myself the booster push rod position changes slightly when vacuum is applied so there would have to be some kind of initial clearance. That's the only way I can justify why the FSM says to check everything while under vacuum. I guess I'll measured the clearance on my stock booster and MC and start with that.

I worried about that at first as well. I suppose you could always use a vacuum pump to put the booster under vacuum before fitting, if you really wanted to. I got lazy and just fitted it straight up with no vacuum. I figured I'd give it a try and see if it needed more adjustment after it was running. Doesn't seem to.

Well sheet. Didn't make DGRR as things came up at the last minute that prevented it. Bummed me out, had been planning for it all year. Good part was that it allowed me to FINALLY get the shop cleaned out and organized. Almost finished with cleaning and then onto the next step.

Still have a few bugs to work out on the rear suspension. Also been measuring and eyeballing how to shoehorn this under the front.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7282/8...db815d09_n.jpg
front suspension_new by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Well, except the tires, those are from the Mustang widebody project I'm stealing parts from. Plan to run 235/40 17s up front. Those should be enough of a challenge. The 285/30 18s would look pretty cool though, if I didn't have to actually turn. :lol:

Excuses.. excuses... 2GSLSE didn't bring his silver FB either. Next year being the 10th anniversary, would be appropriate to have the most bad-ass cars there. We expect you'll be in attendance..

Not so sure about bad ass, insane..., not quite right..., needs his head examined... maybe. Planning on it. I NEED some Dragon time.

Results of my month long sojourn of cleaning and organizing the shop. Still not completely done, but I'm flat out of motivation to do anymore for a while. Have to organize a few more tools, go through a couple of small boxes of fluids, and get the FC front suspension out of the back of the truck and onto a shelf. (at least until I can get them to Chris [RedR1]).

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7288/8...f7a48e3211.jpg
shop1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8255/8...01cc328504.jpg
shop2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/8...38c41925b0.jpg
shop3 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8260/8...9a01317d60.jpg
shop4 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

considering the disaster area I WAS working in, pretty proud of myself.

P.S. for those always saying pics or it didn't happen, I HAVE PICS!

That's actually a nice look shop. Good floors and space... twice the space I have lol.. I'd like to build a 30x40 someday...

it's a 30X30 space. Building all the benches and shelving took up most of the time. Put in the wiring and lighting previously. Plenty of 110 and 220 outlets. I should get off my butt and run piping for my air compressor around the ceiling, with drops and traps, one of these days. More future projects.

Need a roommate? God I would love for that much space. That is bigger than my apartment by far for what is probably half the cost! Looks good Gunny!

It's the upside of living in Kansas. Roommate would be good, bring beer. :)

Yea - that's the downside of the northern VA area. Land is a premium. Some day we're getting out of this rat race, lol.

Not to turn this into a shop build thread, but... is your compressor in the shop or in it's own outbuilding?

Maybe we all just come to KS and raid the shop space :)

In the shop. I'm not that fancy.

Yeah, housing prices in Kansas are a LOT cheaper than Va, or much of anywhere else I've seen, which is why I moved here. I got sick of competing in the rat race. That and most folks here are pretty nice people.

No picture update. Waiting on parts and figure I've already posted plenty of pictures of it torn apart, you can go look at those if you want. ;)

This may get lengthy, go get a drink. I know I need one.

Sharing what didn't work out as planned is probably the most useful part of showing your builds. Most people kind of gloss over the problems, understandable, but it doesn't help others to avoid pitfalls.

Well the 275s still aren't working out as planned. If you use that wide of a tire with the stock axle width you will need about a +50 offset (Mine are +42), even with the shorter GSL axles vice the SE axles. (SE axles would be even worse) This is under the assumption that you want a working suspension and setting it up rock hard is not acceptable.

Alternatively fender flares and cutting of the fenders would be necessary. The problem is where the rear fender curves inward behind the wheel centerline. As the suspension cycles the tire hits in this spot if not tucked in quite a bit. I refuse to go with flares because I'm not very bright.

I haven't given up on the 275s though. The next plan of attack, (I do believe we're on plan U or plan V by now), is to modify the Moser axles. I talked with the guys at Moser about my little problem. Good bunch of guys and very helpful. I decided to send the axles back and have the seat for the bearing machined 1/2 inch further out and shorten the axle the 1/2 inch to compensate. With the discs, I have about an inch of room to play with between the flange and the bearing retaining plate. I'm modifying the brake brackets again to pull the caliper in the 1/2 inch also.

This should pull the wheel in an extra 1/2 inch and allow me to run wheels with a reasonable offset. Wide +50 and over wheels are scarce and pricey. Hopefully it works this time. It looks like it should, but I've said that before. :lol:

Another thing that I've had to rethink is spring seats and bump stops. The springs weren't very well secured and could possibly even fall out if the back of the car launched into the air from doing something stupid. Solution was to use the stock rubber portion of the SA bump stop on the top spring seat. Also weld the steel cone portion of the bump stop (it was removed from the floorpan when I did the upper spring seats) onto the axle spring seat. They both fit perfectly inside the Mustang springs. I'll be screwing a 1" bump stop from a Toyota on top of the cone portion when I get them.

This accomplishes two things. It keeps me from being severely embarrassed by having my springs fall out and provides a bump stop that will move as I adjust the suspension.

Also had to cut the over the axle portion of the driver's exhaust pipe off and redo it again #$%^&. I just HAD to have true duals :banghead:. I was still having interference problems with the axle when it came up to the top of axle movement. I do believe I got it this time. The bracing for the G-Force panhard bar makes pipe routing a real pain in the a** and you can't get a normal muffler shop to do the work.

The pipe on both sides has to follow the floor pan pretty closely or the axle will hit. (Not much room left in there on a 1stgen when the axle is at the top of it's travel.) This requires removal of all the extraneous Watts link mounts and other BS in the way. Also had to move the brake line junction over about 6 inches and redo the brake lines as it was too close to the exhaust as well.

Currently putting in the exhaust supports, now that I have all the little problems ironed out. I'll eventually redo the over axle portion in mandrel bent SS, but this has to do for now.

Will post pictures when I get some parts back. If I haven't been committed before then. :)

Since I'm stuck until a few more parts get here, I figured that I may as well post up a few of the pictures I referred to above.

This is the stock bump stop adapted to fit my top spring perch. Fit almost perfectly. :D

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3711/8...86444064_n.jpg
bump stop_upper by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Had to space my caliper brackets another 1/2 inch to accommodate moving the discs back that amount, made up a spacer using 1/2 X 1 inch bar and modified the rear anti-moan brackets.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2847/8...13a36c61_n.jpg
caliper bracket 1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8274/8...71c87b98_n.jpg
caliper bracket 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Used the stock spring seat from the chassis to form a more secure lower seat on the axle. It will also allow me to put an adjustable 1 inch bump stop on top. This way my bump stop will always follow any spring height adjustments I make. The original seat probably would have worked, but I was a little concerned with the short springs I am using and I needed bump stops anyway.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8124/8...6bfca3da_n.jpg
lower spring seat by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Also put in exhaust hangers and finished redoing the rear axle brake lines when I moved the T block.

Still waiting on axles, the other bump stops, and some limiting straps with clevis' and mounts. There is no bind left in the suspension so I need something to keep it from dropping too far and breaking the shocks.

Now that I finally have internet back, time for a few updates. Where was I? Oh yeah.

As I was saying, I had a few problems out back. I got the axles and everything reinstalled, took it out for testing. Found out I have clearance issues with the driveshaft, also with the tires running this close to the fenders even the little bit of side-to-side movement induced by the panhard rod was causing a rubbing problem on the fenders.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7439/9...af76052e_n.jpg
floor pan mod ver. 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Re-modified the floor pan for more clearance at the back. Come to find out the factory did not have the axle centered for a reason. They moved it slightly to the drivers side (approx. 1-2 inches) to accomodate more floorpan indentation on the passenger side. No doubt because some ga-genius in marketing thought that worrying about rear seat hip room for the JDM market was actually important.

Also modified my transmission mount to drop it downward again by about 2 inches. This caused more driveline angle than I want, but I plan to also drop the engine in the chassis enough to bring the driveline angle into spec. (Also lowering the car's center of gravity :)) Basically what I have is a severely lowered suspension, except that the larger tires don't actually bring it any lower. Which is why so much was required to gain suspension travel and clearance above what the factory provides. We'll see if it's enough. I have a little over 3 maybe four inches of upward travel and 6 downward. I can make more room, but then I get back into tire clearance issues.

Fabricated a Watts link to replace the panhard bar. Which keeps the tires centered without that nasty side-to-side movement. I used the factory center pivot, modified it so the arms are in the same movement center and reinforced it. Also used the existing G-Force panhard mount (with a few modifications) to mount the lower of the link arms.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7427/9...af76052e_z.jpg
Watts center link by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Center mount fabbed and welded in.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3784/9...0b577b13_n.jpg
Watts link by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Watts link installed.

I also got the suspension travel limiting straps in, which was a bigger pain than they look due to limited space.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5477/9...c64b9867_n.jpg
limiting strap by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

The bump stops also came in and were installed. For some reason the passenger side has an inch more travel than the driver's side when the car was leveled. Not quite sure why as the spring mounts are identical copies of each other on each side. Only thing I can figure is that the passenger side frame rail was an inch higher throwing my measurements off. No picture of this as it's just a 2 inch urethane button on top of the cones. Well a spacer too on the passenger side.

Pictures are of the rear wheel fitment with the half inch taken out of the axles. ( Actually the axles could have easily been modified for another quarter of an inch, but I didn't want to get carried away. :lol:)

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5324/9...67211e3b_n.jpg
rear wheel fitment 2 ver. 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5534/9...ff56d2e0_n.jpg
rear wheel fitment 1 ver.2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Then moved to the front suspension. Pulled the engine and transmission as well as the front suspension to get to work.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7314/9...b7a66513_n.jpg
looking forlorn by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

I modified the K member and did the initial fit to find out what I had to do to make this pig work. My poor protractor, tape measure, ruler/square, and calipers are getting one hell of a workout with all the measuring and re-measuring I've had to do.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7458/9...df064dab_n.jpg
K-member 1st fit by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

I went ahead and replaced both front frame rails with 2X2 inch 1/8 inch tubing located above the old rails. Then removed the old rails. This gives me more clearance for the long A arms and strengthens the front frame area, which the rally guys say is a weak spot on these cars. Also cut the steering shaft at the box and removed it as I will be adapting it to the Ford rack and pinion.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2866/9...c827b3b1_n.jpg
new frame rails 1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7287/9...0ab89bc4_n.jpg
new frame rails 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Currently I have a little more reinforcement to do in the frame boxed area and then refit the K member. It looks like I'll need to move the A arm mounting points in about two and a quarter inches to get the tires tucked in where I want them. Happy Days, having more fun than a barrel of monkeys. :)

Living up to the thread title I see. Excellent work! I really want to get into serious chassis modification at some point but I need to focus on getting the car running for a bit first.

so what made you go with the wonky mustang front suspension over something simplier yet likely as effective, (FC subframe)

Ummm... I had it at hand? Actually the way it's set up by Kenny Brown it should be more effective geometry wise than the FC subframe, as well as lighter, and allow me to use the larger spindles, bearings and brakes from the SN-95 Cobra R. I also plan to convert it to an SLA (Short Long Arm) unequal length arm suspension and this will make that easier. Severe overkill for an RX-7 I know, but I've never been accused of being particularly smart. An alternate suspension solution became necessary after having vendor problems and unable to get parts that I needed.

As to the question of Why? Are you insane? Short answer.. yes. One of the questions always asked by 1st genners is how much tire can I fit under the stock sheet metal?, and what would I have to do to fit really big rubber under there? Granted, the question is usually asked by someone that's new to 1st Gens (still a legit question). The standard pat answer is, You can't.

Challenge accepted.

I have had to cheat a bit in the back with the tubs, but the outer sheet metal is still stock. I may end up losing this personal challenge, but I'll give it a good shot anyhow.

As to the naysayers not liking 17s on a first gen. I understand, buuut....

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2883/9...1e8d4617_z.jpg
new brakes by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

They're kind of necessary. Original SA discs on right, new 13" Cobra R discs on left.

What a small caliper for 13" rotors... :)

:smilielol5: It should do the job in a 2300 pound car. Upgrades are easy if needed. Everybody makes go fast parts for Mustangs to satisfy us dumb rednecks. ;)

Small update. It has been slow going lately, ran out of funds to buy needed parts :eek:, so trying to drag it out a little to keep me occupied. K member has been fitted, modified, refitted, measured, torn down, etc. so many times that I'm unsure what I started with at this point.

I ended up moving the A arm mounting points inward 1.5" on either side narrowing the track to approximately what it was stock. The pictures are the final? positioning where the tires are going to sit. Ride height should be close, but I'll have to see when I get further along.

I have to order the pieces to convert the MacPherson Strut Mustang spindle to accept upper ball joints. Also need to order the adjustable upper A arms and get it all fitted.

At that point I can start looking for coil over shocks for the front and see what kind of trimming on the inside of the wheel wells I'm going to need so the wheels will turn fully lock-to-lock without hitting.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/9...76f7749c_n.jpg
front tire 1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2825/9...4d417425_n.jpg
front tire 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3799/9...69255124_n.jpg
front+rear sideview by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

I would like to go to a 245/40 17 on the front. Once I get the upper arms in and back on the ground I'll have to do some more measuring.

Got the spindle adapters ordered today. (stole the pics from Griggs Racing).

Might have to rob a bank to afford the rest of it though. :(

http://www.griggsracing.com/images/U...intAdapter.jpg

http://www.griggsracing.com/images/EMUJ2000L.jpg

Bling!

Props to you cool build :) I'm guessing you've owned a mustang or two in your day?

Just a few. :lol: Boxes of brand new spare parts needed a new home and the RX7 needed suspension and brakes. Match made in heaven, or , maybe someplace considerably lower.