AUTOCORRECT!!!!!!!!

I'd rather buy one than be owned by one.


The implication is that you're a weaker than a pussy!!!!

Isn't it a lease?

Threadjack

DJ is gonna need some ice for that burn.......:diaf:


What would a build thread be with out a thread jack every now and again. :op:

Decided to polish my FTPs today. They turned out pretty good. I also got some great looking turbo injectors in the mail from Ransom. They will be safe In a box until I can use them. Got my new crossmember as well. I'm not sure when I'll put it in yet though.

Injectors

Crossmember

Yup. The whole idea was to lease it for 3 years and then cut a check for the residual and buy it CPO. That gets me the potential for 100k of warranty and was cheaper than financing it. The total "loan" works out to be .7% as opposed to financing it @ .9% and only getting 50 or 60k on warranty ;)

I was afraid to open that pic as your leg looks like a very hairy ass :rofl::willy_nilly:

Jack or :op::bj:

:awesome: The FTP's that I bought from DJ fell apart on me.... and they never really fit the bumper right anyway. I'm going to experiment with vac forming and try to make my own. Then throw some neon in there... it'll be phat yo

Thank you?:uhh:



COME ON DJ!!!!! WHY YOU GOTTA DO BRI BRI LIKE THAT?:toetap05:

:rofl: He didn't, they were mint when I got them.... it's that cheap japanese plastic

:suspect:

I don't sell junk. I fix it (or attempt to)

Damn right. And that was what? 5-6 years ago?

Something like that, yeah... I think it was the year of my rd trip... which was 2010

I've been slackin'. Next plans are to put in the new trans cross member and poly mounts. I'll most likely end up doing that on sunday or monday. After that the fixing the leaky oil pan is on the list and while I'm down there doing poly motor mounts as well. Part of the hold up is being out of money haha. I need to find a job badly.

Also.. Id quickly like to revisit the idea of swapping miata gear set into the FC trans. Does anyone happen to know what kind of power that set up can handle? In doing all the mods to the car for the future i'd like to set things up as i go so that it will all manage the future goals of power.

I'd say about as much as the N/A RX-7 transmission. That is, not too much. I've seen both transmissions completely disassembled and I didn't see anything that would indicate the Miata gear set is any stronger or weaker. That's not to say there aren't any differences. I used a gear set from a '96 Miata and I noticed the following differences versus my stock '89 transmission:

-Second gear has two synchronizers
-The reverse gear has a helical cut
-Small casting differences in the bearing plate
-No gigantic weight on the output shaft

I used the front (bell), gear (middle), and rear (tail) housings from the RX-7 transmission. The bearing plate and everything else were from the Miata transmission.

Ran a TII engine in front of my NA trans for 5 years of dragon slaying and spirited driving with absolutely no problems whatsoever. When I fragged that motor, the trans went to Charles, which he still might have around (maybe in Sheba).

So, like most RX-7 issues, its usually the driver at fault.

:rofl: That would be the truth.

We maintained a metric fuck ton of ITS cars up at Speed1. Teams would go through 3+ trannies a season and the failures were ridiculous. As in stripping the teeth from the gears.

Once we started cryo'ing the trannies they would last all season and just need new syncro's in the off season... and the fluid would drain gold :smilielol5: It was fucking hilarious.

I guess i just got the idea in my head to do the miata gears swap and wondered how much power i could throw at it (maybe around 350whp max?).

That makes me not worry so much. I guess I could always do the TII trans. But as i said above ^^

So you think if i had the gears cryo treated id be ok even if i ran around 350whp? I mean I'm not gonna be tracking the car. Just spirited driving really.

I know you're asking Bri-bri, but in my opinion, the money is better spent elsewhere.

Like paint....

Really I'm asking whoever wants to answer.

As far as paint goes I'm still going back and forth about it. Not sure if I want to leave it Red or do a color change. Either way I'm gonna feel the need to pull the engine for the paint stage. It will really bother me if it doesn't look good under the hood too. And if I'm gonna go that far I might as well change the color.

If you're not going to track your car the N/A transmission with Miata gears will probably be fine. ITS cars spend a lot of time at high engine speeds so even with less power they're putting more stress on the transmission. You could always look into a transmission cooler if you're still concerned. In my opinion it's still less expensive and confusing than having to deal with a turbo transmission in an otherwise N/A car.

I suspect that it will handle it just fine

An n/a car would benefit more from the RX8 6 spd swap than a TII swap

I think if you cryo'ed the whole tranny you would never have a problem with it.

I tend to agree

:squint:

Absolutely correct. Not to mention the 5.11 gears and Hoosiers that put way more strain on a tranny.

Even with the 350 hp number in mind? At this point my plan is to do a NA 3 rotor when its time to do the engine swap. Its what i really wanted originally with my old car (or an RE swap but i don't want to deal with turbo now). I guess I shouldn't have been so vague in the beginning with this question. So now its all out there.


Im probably really showing my ignorance now but why would it be a expensive/confusing to just swap a TII transmission in? Seems like that option would be less expensive than buying another trans and then having a shop swap the gears and mod the input shaft?

Disregard my post above this then. You must have posted this at the same time i posted.



Ah i remember us talking about this forever ago. I know you were still kind of in the experiment stage though when we did. I really need to read up on gear ratios though... I know they are simple but i just don't know exactly what I'm looking at when i see the numbers.



Paint is high on the list after I get the other small things worked out. Im planning to get a quote for it soon. I'd be more than willing to do it myself but i don't have a place to do the work. I don't really want to close my wife out of the garage but i may talk to her about it after i get a quote. I have a feeling the price to paint might motivate her to let me make a mess of the garage and buy a compressor. That being said however, as long as its been since ive painted anything a shop could certainly do it better than me at this point.

I guess what i could do is the body work portion of it and then trailer it to the body shop for paint. Although typically they don't like that sort of thing but ill probably ask about it when i go for the quote just to see what they tell me.

I disapprove. All rotaries should be turbo. Especially those with a displacement greater than 1.3L

I've been running the 8 6spd for a while. It hasn't proven itself all that reliable but people say they are weak, and I say they're ignorant and need a lesson in how TO FUCKING DRIVE A MANUAL TRANS!

To me a trans is weak when it can't handle the torque and teeth strip and shafts twist or break. When you over extend a shift hub and the detent balls pop out into a tranny spinning at 9k, can you really say the tranny's weak? not in my eyes. In that case you're a fucktard who needs to learn to shift properly.

That's what I plan on doing actually... that's what I did for the most part last time... although I rented the booth and shot it myself. Not sure I wanna do that again though.

Lol.... Disapprove away. But I feel pretty good about it at this point. I've not read one bad thing about a NA 3 Rotor set up. All I've read says how much fun they are to drive. But .... we'll see... there is plenty of time for me to change my mind.:rofl:



Thats not a very comforting statement in your pitch for every NA Rotary needing a 8 transmission :banghead:

As far as the shifting properly goes... are the people who can't do it properly just pulling and pushing WAY too hard during the shift?


Did you rent the booth from a local body shop? How long did you rent the booth for? What did they charge you?

You can get a small turbo with a big exhaust and properly sized turbine and have the same hp, more torque, and be more fun to drive.... cheaper... in my opinion.

My problems have been all shift assembly related. Having to modify the tailshaft and linkages has proven.... difficult. The last iteration lasted 2 years and now it's pissing fluid everywhere. Not sure why... haven't looked yet. I'll let you know though.

Mostly

The owners are friends of the family. Rented it on a saturday, charged me $250 for the 5 hours. Picked the car up on monday morning :D

Shut up queer. I'm done with turbo rotaries until I win the lotto.

wah wah wah spinny bits are expensive and the gremlins shit out apex seals for no reason, WAHHHHHHHHH

Hey now.

I didn't shit an apex seal. I annihilated a rotor bearing.

It was tragically impressive.

:rofl:

Turbo can't really be blamed for that ;)

How I'd love to have a 5.11:1 final drive ratio. Looks like the highest option other than complete custom for the FC is Mazdatrix's 4.77:1.

Oh, I didn't realize you were planning on swapping a 20B. 350 hp in a naturally aspirated 20B is optimistic without sacrificing some drive-ability, but that's another conversation. I still think as long as you're not beating on the car constantly (hard launches, constant high-RPM driving, etc.) the N/A gearbox will be fine. You can always change the fluid more often to be safe.

My comment about the complexity was assuming the stock N/A 13B. To switch to a turbo gearbox you need a turbo clutch and flywheel, starter, and unless you want a custom driveshaft to the stock N/A rear end, the turbo differential as well.

For the record i have no qualms with going turbo. I just want to really experience NA for a while. I still see turbo in my future. just not yet.

I think the 350 number is attainable from what I've been reading lately. I came across a thread on the other forum that a guy did a 3 rotor na build for his FD. The made 345whp. His comments were that the car was just fine on the street drivability wise minus his clutch choice. So i am hopeful.

That makes perfect sense. Im glad to know that that miata gear swap is still on the table.

Sooo, please correct me if i'm wrong because i'm confused. You wanted a FD but you said it was too expensive, that is the reasoning behind you purchasing the FC. Now you want to have a NA 20b in your FC........ :confused:

Smaller chunks of moneies at once.

We did 350 on Gordons 3-rotor, stock port, n/a

Aside from the sound which is orgasmic, there's no bene to a 3 rotor if you're only looking for 350rwhp.

Now 600.... We've done that on pump gas with three rotors.

no need to be confused. a decent Fd would have cost me 10k on the low side. and then i would have had to dump a bunch of money to make it look nice. My FC cost 3.5K and its in good running condition and the body is straight. the money i saved not buying a FD means money i can use for the FC.

Speed1 built his? I thought Defined built it? I mean its either a singe turbo RE or a 3 rotor na. Seems like i would run into less annoying things and hang ups with out the turbo.

I forget who built it, but it blew up good about 200ft before making it to the Dragon......

Yes it did, that was what, 2 DGRR's ago?