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I don't think you need to grind it. You can move closer cap screws to a hole closer to the other one. That should give you full adjustability and range on the Coilovers.
Edit: I just realized that made no sense at all. Move the screws a few holes over. You shouldn't have any interference problems from the looks of the pictures. |
I see what you mean... I wasn't thinking about it that way, lol... so simple.
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Yup, that's how I have mine. I have full range of adjustability from that.
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Yup. Easy -2.5* doing it that way. Unless you're running Rcomps you dom't really need more than that. What kind of racing are you planning, Bill?
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Its for time attack open class with NASA Mid atlantic.
I was so tired when I was putting them on it didn't even dawn on me to move the screws as vex mentioned - although, in reality, as you said w/ the R comps I wouldnt really need it and i wasnt going to grind until finish everything else, so I'd like to think I would have caught that before hacking into my towers... A small update, I got the hubs cleaned up and ready for the new bearings, got side tracked stripping my jeep down today :) no more top and doors til labor day! |
With the R-comps, I have no experience. From what I've read though they like more negative camber than the streets. Some say as much as 3.5*. I have a set, but I was going to save them until a track day. Depending on which class they stick me in next week will determine whether or not I bolt them on. We'll see. Right now I'm running about -2.5* with my Azenis. I think I can put a little more in on the track, but for the street they seem about right.
Kudo for real racing |
Yup - I'm in NASA-X right now w/ my 8 refining my skills since I haven't really race in a few years and I'd like to get the feel back for it. My goal is to complete six NASA-X events this year, at least HPDE1 and then do HPDE2,3,4 next year and apply it towards getting my competition license for TT events. This way, when the FC is ready to go, I can do some test/tune days at auto-x and jump right into the TT events at my own pace... should be fun.
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I feel like time is going by entirely too fast these days! Getting married in just over a molnth, keeping up with the auto-x schedule in the 8 and absolutely slammed by work (day and moonlight job)... but even still, I have some updates.
I was hoping by now to have a much better update, but with the delays at Shine on body parts and getting parts surfaced shipped from RHDJapan I'm still not as far along as I'd hoped. What I have done though, is completed the rebuild of the front suspension, steering knuckle, ball joints and rebuilt the hub. Very pleased with how its coming together though and my OCD isn't getting in the way too bad - I only double checked the torque settings on every nut/bolt twice, lol.. I'm expecting the RHDJapan order to be in next week, so I can finish off my steering and some misc items... who knows when the rest of the body parts will be here... I'm hoping by end of September, but we'll see. |
Here are some shots of the hubs. New hubs are entirely too expensive and finding 4 lug versions is even more difficult. SuperNow makes a nice set, but only in 5 lug and I'm keeping to my plan and staying 4 lug.
Original hub once I pulled the bearings: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/090822_a.jpg The original bearings and races were actually in good shape, but I replaced them anyway. I followed the write up on Mazdatrix, but they leave some details out. Long story short, get a good strong bit - a dremel and sharp punch. You need the sharp punch to get the large race out as its difficult to get behind it. I didnt take pics of my notches that I cut, but its best to make the large. I used a normal grinding bit to clean them up. VERY IMPORTANT for the new races to sit down flush as possible. Hub before removing races/cleaning: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/090822_c.jpg Another shot of the outer race... these have 112K miles on them and are damn near perfect... but I pulled them anyway and replaced with new: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/090822_d.jpg Original spindle: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/090822_e.jpg I cleaned the spindle up (soaked in gasoline, wirebrushed and then coated w/ three coats of rust proof gloss black). You can see the cleaned hub underneath it with new races installed. I am getting another set of spindles from a friend of mine to modify (more steering angle still) and will powdercoat those set: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/090822_b.jpg Installed the refinished spindle: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/090822_f.jpg Installed the new ball joints: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/090822_g.jpg Installed the new repacked hub and dust cover. I didnt snap any pics of packing the bearings.. at this point the SLR went inside and my old digi cam came out - that grease is nasty shit to have around expensive electronics! Side note... I ended up packing the bearings by hand instead of a bearing packer, hand worked better: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/090822_h.jpg The drivers side is the same deal... no need for pics on that one. As with the entire project, every bit of hardware was inspected, cleaned and recoated as needed. I also modified the stock brake dust shield as you can see in the last pic. The new brake rotors will measure almost 12" and the stock cover is for 10.2" rotors... Once the new brakes come in, I'll have to find a handy tig welder to make my new dust covers. I want to integrate a cooling duct into it as well... |
Those nasty stock tie rods and steering crap is what I'm waiting on from RHDJapan.. That'll come in the next update.
I have collected another part of the project... my dual oil coolers! These are from the old '04 RX8 I had which is now a parts car. Honestly, you can buy new oil coolers and rig something up, but I've found these coolers worked well on the '04 8 (which was boosted as well) and through my autox days with my 8 now they seem to do well too. Tried and true is good enough for me. And they make fan kits for these now. I got the brackets, lines, etc as I'm not sure just yet what parts I'll need to make it all work. I love how Brian did his on his FC, but I'll have to see if I can route mine similarly or not due to charge pipes... A little cleaning and these should do great: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/090822_i.jpg |
Can't wait to see it!
As soon as my wife gets a job I'll be able to pick up some new parts to finish up the engine bay/get it where I want. |
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What the hell man! Did I tell you my plan for the brakes over the winter? :suspect: |
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I actually spoke to Wilwood about 5 months ago about designing a kit for my car, then fastbrakes.com released their kit but in 5 lug. I contacted them and they said as long as wilwood makes the rotor hat in the 4 lug, they can supply the kit to me and it was a few hundred less than wilwood wanted direct, so yea.. it'll be good. I am going to run FD rear brake calipers and custom wilwood rear brake rotor... that will probably all happen over the winter... |
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Its been a month and no update - wow. With guys like Brian (and his buddy's T2) and Sean building sick FCs, I feel like a huge slacker now, lol.
With my wedding a week away, I knew I wouldnt have time to get any large projects started on the car until late October, so thats where I am. In preparation though, I've been collecting parts and they are slowly trickling in. My steering parts from URAS and SuperNow are in so I can complete the front end rebuild (the steering rack was the final step), some odds and ends here and there (tow hook, mirror plates, etc). I've got lizard skin ready to be laid down, my buddy is checking out a car in GA for me that will hopefully have the clean black interior I'm looking for and deposits have been paid for the new hood and bumper, etc. IF this car makes it to DGRR 2010, this is how its going to happen. If any part of this timeline should fail, I will not make the deadline. End of October - steering rack rebuilt, installed with new Supernow & URAS parts End of November - completed undercoating of the entire car and lizard skin on the interior End of December - car bodywork completed and painted End of January - new interior from donor car installed, along with new roll cage End of February - engine torn down and rebuild begins End of March - engine assembled and in the car, accessories installed and EMS wired Realistically, I'm doubtful this project goes so smoothly... its been almost 7 years now and every time I build the car, the engine rebuild drags on due to bad parts or something goes wrong with the bodywork! It should be ready for DGRR 2011 though :) |
Just some shots of the parts, nothing too exciting... I'm just glad they showed up now versus while I was away on vacation since they MUST be signed for.
URAS inner tie rods with built in spacers. These guys are BEEFY! I'll compare them to stock ones when I pull the stockers out. http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/...nertierods.jpg Another shot of the spacer... very well built IMHO. http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/...ertierods2.jpg SuperNow adjustable outer rods http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/...ow_tierods.jpg SuperNow titanium tow hook. It was hard to find one that I liked and wouldnt involve much interference with the front end for the FC chassis. The pics dont do it justice either, its actually a really nice part - just doesnt come with hardware which would have been an added bonus! http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/...ow_towhook.jpg Finally, in this box at least, some mirror mounts from SuperNow. I love the F1 style mirrors and these brackets should do the trick to get some mounted to the body for me :) http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/...ow_mirrors.jpg The of the stock pile is just supplies (por, lizard skin, etc) no glorious shots for ya! Cant wait for the wedding and honeymoon but the fact that I get to work on the car again in October makes me happy!! |
:lol:
Lay down the car law EARLY. As soon as you get back from the honeymoon, drop the bags in the front hallway and say, "Hun, I need a sammich and some time alone with my mistriss." And just walk away. Maybe let her catch you in the garage with your pants around your ankles :rofl: Congrats Bill.... on the upcoming nuptuals mostly. The pile of parts looks pretty badass too. Digging that towhook |
Yeah Congrats man!! I wish you two the best.
Your timeline makes me smile. That looks like what I had one paper when I got back from Iraq. Those damn hic-ups slow you down but also seem to educate. I hope you get it all done bro. MAN those Supernow parts are sweet ass sweet. |
So Bill......... you gonna cut the honeymoon short?
J/K - congrats man. |
Ah - I'm back already... and hating every minute! Water was 84.9 degrees in St. Thomas!
I spent a bit too much on those damned duty free islands, but I should still be able to make my October goal, I'll get back into the swing of it this weekend and post some updates :) |
Now get to work!!!!
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I'm really due for an update.
First off. The honeymoon was good, minus the flu I caught on the way down. After recovering from that, I came home to a shit storm at work (hate being the only one who knows how to do anything!) - once I caught up on that I had minor surgery and then of course, holidays. Putting it kindly - I'm behind. There were some issues during the work being performed that have put me a back a bit too. I'm roughly one month off from the timeline I set in the earlier threads. For my update though, I have accomplished October's tasks and SOME of novembers, not done undercoating yet and havent started the lizard skin interior. For starters... I've rebuilt my steering rack following mostly what I got from flyin miata's writeup and Brian's thread in the FC section. Some snags along the way would be the c-clip holding the quil cover down broke... had to order one since they dont stock a 44mm c-clip anywhere! Secondly, dont have a TIG welder. Needed some m12x1.25 set screws to block off the holes left in the quil housing. Again - they dont stock those, they had to be ordered. Other than that - it went smoothly. Here are some shots (sorry not as many - but the work was fast and messy). Busted out my old digi cam for these, so the pics arent great. Here's the URAS inner tod rod comparison to stock: I pulled the old ones off w/ outer rods in place (later removed but kept old inners for "extras" just in case) http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/steering_rack1.jpg Here is the big different between the URAS and stockers. Note the extra height in the URAS version on the left (adds additional steering angle) and the material is much stronger. http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/steering_rack2.jpg Just another angle (sorry, I know they are terrible pics) http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/steering_rack3.jpg Steering rack ripped open, bushings removed, line connections cut off and welded shut. http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/steering_rack4.jpg Rack during painting/cleaning. Still hadnt received the set screws yet: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/steering_rack5.jpg New steering dust boots: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/steering_rack6.jpg http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/steering_rack7.jpg Putting it back in the car (still hadnt received new c-clip yet, so this pic isnt a "finished" shot). http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/steering_rack8.jpg It was around that time I smashed my hand in the steering linkage and stopped taking pics... lol. I'll get some extra shots tomorrow. Hope to have interior completely out next weekend for lizard skinning and the rest of the rear out to finish the undercoating... |
Nice progress Bill. Timelines are lame, even though I always impose them on myself and pull all nighters on a monthly basis when I'm elbow deep in a pj. Glad the write up helped.
How are you doing the undercoating and what product are you using? I need an undercoating.... for a roof rack of all things... and the Herculiner is pretty aggressive and has more of a gloss than I would like for my rack. I'm thinking I remember the Rhinoliner being less aggressive in grit and the finish more of a flat black. So, which are you using and how are you applying? Rotisserie and a shutz gun I hope ;) |
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LOL... Hey Bill looks like good progress BTW I'm looking into the cabins for DGRRX this weekend
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I'm undercoating the Herculiner w/ a foam roller (2") from Lowes :)
I'm havent started the lizard skin yet but plan on using a gun for that one... I dont have enough room under the car unfortunately to get accurate/clean sprays using a gun so I'm going at it nice and slow :( I'll have some better updates soon. Work gave us a week off between xmas and new years so I plan to get some things knocked out. Unfortunately, I have some garage things I need to do - like get a better/larger heater and clean up some old boxes that I dont need any longer. I would like to have the rear section undercoated and done by then and start cleaning on the rear suspension in preparation for new bushings/paint, etc. Looks like the bodywork wont happen until late january going into february now! Ah well. I'm just siked to be two months from getting an engine in the garage! That alone will be a long awaited step! |
Hey Bill, I just used the Herculiner on the plastic molding on my XJ and found some interesting shit out about it. The supplied brush leaves the most amount of texture. Too much for my fender flares. A standard short nap paint roller leaves much less. An Epoxy roller - something that you'd find at a hardware store if you're lucky or a marine store for sure will give you the least amount of texture. You can actually roll out most of the texture with that type of brush. A shutz gun gives alot of texture but the coverage isn't as good as with the roller.
The Lizard skin doesn't really suffer from the covereage problem as much as the Herculiner. It seems to want to run and pool more so be careful with that. After all that's been said I plan on rolling both on my FC and spraying both on the FD. Reason being is that the paint onthe FC is done and if it strays, I'll have to kill someone. |
I guess since my car is in the January ROTM contest, it calls for an update. I still have not fixed my good digi cam's lens, but I dug out the old school one for some quick pics.
These are some teasers, but sorry Brian - you'll have to wait for the "good" ones, lol. Got really side tracked the last few weeks.... lots of back and forth and waiting and research some things. No further adue... Single handily, the largest package ever received for my FC: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/hood_bumper1.jpg It has all finally arrived, the new bumper: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/bumper2.jpg Quickie hood shot... more on this in a second: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/hood2.jpg |
Yessssssss :icon_tup:
I don't know how I missed this thread before. I read through the whole thing last night, I love it. Very impressed so far, and it looks like it's about to get even awesomer :001_005:. if I could travel 3 or 4 days back in time, I'd vote for you instead of myself in ROTM :rofl:. |
Do you think the radiator will cool the car? I don't think that is enough airflow :)
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I want to preface this next bit really quick with a disclaimer...
I am in NO way trying to create a flame war or cause Shine Auto any harm, Ken has been easy to work with and given the nature of our community and in general, most shops, his customer service is still good. Now, as most of you know I was early on the list for their CF Panspeed hood and have been waiting for quite a while on it. When making my full payment, I was notified that they had my package all ready to go and it would ship immediately - no receipt and no tracking number within 24 hours so I was a little concerned as Ken is usually really great at getting me these things (had no trouble getting my fenders from him). He notified me the next day that their billing system was down and that I needed to replace the order. Done. 7-10 days for delivery, cool... a week goes by, nothing, another week and I email looking for a tracking number since I was having it delivered to a warehouse and wanted to give the guys some sort of heads up. No response to email, so I call on a Friday to see whats up. Ken answers, very polite and eager to help - said he'd check on it and get back to me in 5 minutes or so... no call back. Following Monday I email again following up only to find out that there was some "miscommunication" and they didnt have the twill weave hood but in fact the plain weave and that they went ahead and made a new hood for me and got it shipped right out... very fast turn around, all was well... only that I did request plain weave and not sure where the "twill" weave conversation started. No big deal, as I actually like the twill better now seeing it in person.... Long story short, I get the hood and its got this: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/hood_defect.jpg Need some thoughts on this as it stood out to be a pretty big defect to me right smack in the middle of the hood (in front of the scoop between the headlights). Now, again -I think Shine is wonderful for offering these hard to find parts and would still recommend them to anyone. The hood had no damage in shipping and was quick to get here once it was shipped. Considering some things I've seen from other vendors, Shine is still a good group of guys. I will be bringing this to Ken's attention to see what we can work out though as I feel that I've been more than flexible and patient and expected better from them... What do you all think, I'll try to get some better pics of it (hard to do w/ the clear coat)? I'm limited experience with large CF parts as this is only my second CF hood and most other CF products have been fairly small.... |
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Lol - Thanks man.. this thread gets burried easily since I'm a slacker at updates :) So many little things go on that dont really justify an update and then sometimes weeks go by that I dont get time to work on it at all. I did however manage to build an addition to my workbench and get my new benchgrinder/buffer installed :) |
Another angle of the hood.
http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/hood1.jpg I'll take some more pics shortly. I need to weigh the individual parts too (an OCD thing I do with all parts). The hood/bumper/light covers/packaging only weighed 40#s though, so I'm already really happy! Also, need to make new brackets to replace these: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/bumper1.jpg I will probably integrate a new brace/mounting bracket for the FMOC system that ducks under the headlight buckets. Still working on hashing out the intercooler and getting the rear pulled apart (been really procrastinating on that one, it was a PIA the last time I did it, but practice is perfect I guess) |
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Here's how you build from a mold Wax the EVER LIVING SHIT out of the mold. Spray your gelcoat. They probably didn't spray the gel, I wouldn't, I would go strait to the next step. Roll on a coat of of epoxy, wait for it to start to kick then roll on another coat, once that starts to kick you lay down the matte, or in this case, CF, then roll on another coat of epoxy. Repeat as necessary to get the strength that you want. Once it's fully kicked, break it free from the mold and you have your part. Hoods and other pieces need to be done in two different sections and epoxied together. Once that's kicked is when I would clear coat it. HOWEVER, it may not be an automotive clear coat, it could be just strait epoxy. I would've done the clear though for UV protection. I'm curious as to what the backside looks like though. So, I'm sorry to say, there is no repairing that. Now, I would go through the list and talk to a few other guys that have this hood in the CF and see if they have anydefects in that area. Two things could have happened. The hood was moved and the CF sagged, OR, the material didn't stretch and move enough in that area becuase of the contours. I'm inclined to say they rushed and didn't see it, or saw it after it was too late. Sorry Bill, other than that, the hood looks MUCH better than I would've expected.:icon_tup: Quote:
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I didnt think they would be able to repair that one at all, lol.. I just wanted another set of eyes to say "yup.. that aint right" lol. I'll talk to Ken shortly and see what we can work out though since I do plan to order more stuff from him. Unfortunately, I believe I may be only one of two or three people who have this hood in CF. It goes back to the "tightwads" comment.
I do love the hood though overall... its PERFECT for a custom part with only that little exception. The hood will get recleared with the rest of the car, so I'm not too concerned just yet with their clear. |
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Actually the design is pretty tasteful, and it should be functional compared to the other reverse vent hoods I've seen. Now the question is... do I stick with my FMIC plans and try to wedge the FMIC, FMOC, ducts and all in the front end, or go VMIC? I really wanted the reverse hood for the radiator moreso than the intercooler, but now its got me thinking.... |
Reverse VMIC. Mount the rad and duct it to take advantage of the hood and use the bumper for the intercooler.
Only problem would be potential coolant flow. People who know how WP's work will understand. might be a cool experiment though. |
I'm not sure I'll want to play guinea pig on that one... Although I still may end up running an electric WP setup, who knows. I havent fully hashed out all the engine details just yet... All I know is I'm using an RE half bridge single turbo :)
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Got in the garage tonight to button up some items on the steering system, get the car on the ground, etc so I could work on the interior easier.
Long story short I snapped some extra pics of the car.... First thing, the second vent over the exhaust: not a real vent (for now). http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/hood_scoop2.jpg This will be modified to be functional when the rest of the body work is done. The main vent: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/hood_vent.jpg The underside (sorry its not a great shot): http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/hood_underside.jpg All together back on the ground: http://www.findtuners.com/FCProject/hood_bumper2.jpg |
Additional details on the parts:
Hood weighs 17lbs Front bumper weighs 10.5lbs My total front end body parts (hood, bumper, fenders) now weigh 34lbs. The stock steel hood the SE came equipped with is 57lbs alone. I'm on the right track to my goal of under 2600lbs total! |
Nice, keep up the good work :)
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