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That looks like BDC Helltech instal :117:
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Believe it or not, his wiring is actually worse than that.
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I don't believe my Haltech harness is like that; but then again I'm using a PS1k ecu and harness.
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That is pretty embarassing. I use crappy equipment and haven't been taught how to do this stuff and my work is 100x better than that...
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I just read through this thread because I'm trying to remove all the connectors from my harness I don't need (emissions mostly) and clean it up a bit and extend or shorten wires. I'm looking at getting the MSD crimper now that was talked about earlier, but what connectors would be good for the stock wiring and what do people here use for heat shrink and do you all cover your wires with expandable mesh sleeving or something else? I want to do it right the first time, If I have to spend the extra money that's fine, I just want to make sure I do it right. Still not exactly sure what I'm looking for.
I also read somewhere about people de-pinning the wires actually from the harness connector to ECU. Has anyone done this? |
Yup, I've done it. You'd be surprised at how many wires aren't needed when you run a standalone.
As for the connectors, I've never had a need to source the stock pins, so I can't help you there. I buy all my connectors through Terminal Supply Co or Waytek, depending on the size of the order. Larger orders are cheaper through Waytek. Their min is based on quantity, not dollar amounts. I use Raychem DR-25 for any engine bay wire covering. Inside the cabin I'll use the expandable sleeving stuff. I use polyolefin heatshrink in the cabin, and the adhesive lined stuff in the bay |
Here's what I've learned:
Crimping is superior, but who says you can't do both? For my off-road car I crimped every end connector and spot-soldered the ends. For butt splices, I typically don't solder. I buy my connectors from these guys: http://www.pelec.com/ I use standard PC-type M/F connectors (You can get them as high as 20pin). They're cheap; you can buy new pins for the connector in almost any size for pennies. http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup...c_drivewye.jpg Note: Get the LOCKING kind I use the crimp tool they sell for $15. I strip the ends off the wire, crimp the pin on, spot solder the pin to the wire, slide the pin into the connector and use a syringe to fill the cavity with black silicone. When adequately prepared I can do a wire a minute. The great thing about these is once you've connected them you can zip-tie them together. I assembled a complete harness for my rail with these that comes apart in three pieces, so the motor comes off with no wiring headaches. The car has been through hell and high-water and it has not failed yet! |
TTT thanks a lot for all the help! That'll make things easier for me to know what to look for. How did you de-pin the wiring? I've been trying to search how to do it but I can't seem to find any good information.
Would these butt connectors be good ones to use for the wiring? http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...T%20CONNECTOR/ Ducktape thanks for the site for the connectors I'll have to check it out! |
De-pinning the connector is different for each type of pin. Just need to look at it and figure it out.
I use the uninsulated buttsplice connectors, not the ones with plastic, I hate those. As opposed to the compouter connectors, why not use a metri-pack, weather pack, deutsch connector? They're designed from the grnd up to be used in an engine bay and they're weather resistant. I use them for bilge pumps where they sit submerged in salt water sometimes and they last just fine. Personally I would rather use a metri pack slathered in dielectric grease than a computer connector with some rtv.... but I've never used them so I can't comment on their durability |
De-pinning the connector is different for each type of pin. Just need to look at it and figure it out.
I use the uninsulated buttsplice connectors, not the ones with plastic, I hate those. As opposed to the compouter connectors, why not use a metri-pack, weather pack, deutsch connector? They're designed from the grnd up to be used in an engine bay and they're weather resistant. I use them for bilge pumps where they sit submerged in salt water sometimes and they last just fine. Personally I would rather use a metri pack slathered in dielectric grease than a computer connector with some rtv.... but I've never used them so I can't comment on their durability |
The weather pack connectors are great. I highly recommend for heavy-duty stuff, but on a street car they're overkill for most jobs. They also seem a little pricey when you're doing a complete harness, and I could never seem to find a large enough weather pack block to do a single-disconnect for a 15+ wire harness. On the plus-side, you can buy a weather pack kit with a bunch of terms and pins at nearly any auto parts store.
They make universal de-pinning tools BTW. They look sorta like gaper gauses with tubes sticking out. /Cheap trick: Coffee-stirs work pretty decent as de-pinning tools on some connectors. |
B and I both know that if you want weather resistance you need some Mil Spec 38999-C III plugs with electro-less nickel plating and RFI grounding with self locking plug.
When everything else could fail; these types of plugs will keep on trucking though the most hazardous environment imaginable. :squint::suspect::squint: |
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For large pin numbers, weather pack really isn't the way to go, they're too bulky and rated for 20+ amps per pin. Very rarely is there a need for something that heavy. Metri-packs are smaller in size, and smaller in amps... 14A I think. Then there is the Deutch connectors.... for large pin numbers, those are the shit, generally half the size of the weather packs. |
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THAT is a DAMN GOOD resource to know about!
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