Kewl

From the factory, that's where the two harnesses meet, down below the masters on the framerail

First thought was AAS and it does look like F-14, AAS connector, pg 50-80

That's kinda what I'm thinking.
The Alt charge wire is going to either the fuse block or the battery itself. Either way running them with the charge cable, like the factory did, would be the tidiest way to do it. It's just a matter of finding the proper wires and terminating them in a tidy way.

:rofl: Probably pretty good ;)

The stock S5 setup had the sense wire (larger white/blue wire) going to the EGI fuse in the main fuse block in the engine bay. The field wire (smaller white/black wire) went to the light in the warning cluster as mentioned previously. I left the field wire alone but since my harness is so cut up I spliced the sense wire into the headlight power circuit. I figure the electrical load increased quite a bit with the lights on so this would be a good source to use to tell the alternator to output more juice.

Exactly 100% correct. Although... I would check the output at the post on the alt just to make sure that it isn't overcharging.

Heres a nice page someone did on the alternator swaps and wiring them up.

http://www.rx7.org/public/altxref.html

Ok, so I went to go take a look at the resistors that I set up.... I did a little heatshrinking over the resistors so I couldn't identify them that way, I should've just ohmed them out, I'll try that tomorrow when I'm back at the shop, in the meatime, Ohms law tells me to start with the 150ohm resistor that you have and measure the voltage at the corresponding pins as per the FSM. There should be 1.2v drop across them

I swapped my trans/clutch this weekend and since the power harness was mostly disconnected I went ahead and removed it completely. . thing is haggard to say the least. It wasn't hard for me to pull the loom apart to expose wires since the electrical tape was rotted and crumbled away. The OE alt. wires for the "T" shaped connector were nowhere to be found. .

With this said, I emailed Chris Ludwig asking if this harness is something he can make. . If not, does anyone have any recommendations on where to get this harness or have one made?

Really simple Zac, locate the FE-03 connector down by the mess over by the masters.

It's a 6 pin connector on the front harness. It will have a B/W and a W/B wire there. Pin them out to make sure they work properly. If they do, than any sort of connector to jump from the FE-03 connector over to the Alt will work just fine. No need for custom harnesses here, as much as I love them ;)

Thanks Brian! Regardless of whether I find a harness or not, I may do this. Just to clarify things, this is the wire I will run with a 150ohm resistor correct? What about a diode, I read that it's recommended if wired a certain way but I'm unsure if I need this if run to the wire in the connector mentioned. . . Schawry, I schtooped on deez thangz.

Well, this is really more of a want than a need since the thing is in rough shape. There are exposed wire to the transmission connectors, busted connectors, broken wire/terminals at connectors, and unnecessary/unused connectors.

Cheers brotha!
Ok, I just thought of another option here....
Since the harness is fucocked right now, what you could do is re-task the leading coil wires since everything you need is right there :awesome:
The leading coil (and this is from memory so bear with me) has two wires that connect to it. G/Y and B/Y. The G/Y should be dead at this point in it's life however, the B/Y is off the main relay and will be hot with the key in the start and run position. So, the B/W wire can be used as the key hot with the resistor wired in place. Then since you're right by the battery anyway, you can connect the "sense" wire directly to the M6 bolt on the fuse block.
As a bonus you can replace the charge cable as well :)

Is your oil pressure gauge and low oil light still functional?

In that case what I would do is take all the connectors off the factory harness and use some Deutsch DTM connectors to replace all the factory ones.

Also, aside from the reverse switch, the other two switchs are no longer needed.

I like this, sounds simple enough!

I'd like to replace the whole thing, everything is brittle.

Pressure, yes but oil level is disconnected.

eh, I'd rather have this done by someone with all the tools and materials already in hand.

True, I didn't have them connected on the last tranny.

I meant to comment on this last week. . . This would be a great write-up/how-to but that's assuming one has all the OE wiring intact, not the case for me so I'll be building from scratch.

Thanks for the info though, it did help.

30 yo wiring is crispy?!?! Say it isn't so ;)

It should be relatively simple, I can only think of 5 wires you needs. Alt charge, Alt control *2, oil pressure and oil level. They should all be on that FE-03 connector

Welp, you can go here (I've been doing business with Joe for a LONG time) and get the kits of the connectors https://prowireusa.com/c-76-deutsch-...ctor-kits.aspx

Just order them with the solid pins. Then you just need this little guy
https://prowireusa.com/p-1813-deutsc...rimp-tool.aspx

There's no need. I just break the wires off at the switch.

.

^ Can't see on desktop or phone. . However I was able to see the shared pic from my email notification.

This it?
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...6&d=1489153450

I like that, is very useful. There's no gray area. . It is: Do it this way or this could happen. Pretty cut and dry, that's what I was looking for.