I guess I'm slightly confused on the welding though - did you cut it apart to smooth out the interior and then weld it all together again? What are your thoughts on the gains that would make?

I dont plan to go to that extreme on my RE but power output should still easily make 425whp...

couple questions..

Who polished your e-shaft and how much or did u polish that to?

Double sprung apex seals.. u mean u have 2 large and small springs behind your apex seals.. what purpose does that serve and is it something that is known to be good to do?

Your right...The manifold had several areas cut out to smoothen the interior and decrease air turbulance that could potential disrupt the smooth air flow that were aiming for. Also cuts allowed access where the dremel couldn't reach through the main opening. My fabricator also widened the degree of curvature in the primary runners to smoothen the air flow. If you look into your manifold,in some area, there are large bumps (thick areas of the manifold) those areas were also ground down. Over here at the shop my fabricator has done it to an FD manifold. I believe it's an awesome modification though it required a ton of work, it has been already tested on a 13B-REW. At first the FD has a T78 turbo, streetport and stock UIM and LIM it put down 311rwhp @ 11psi on a dynojet. After being port matched and having what was done similar to my UIM, the FD was redynoed to 342rwhp at 11psi.

That's awesome that your setup will be in the 400's, I'm hoping to be in that power range with my setup.

My fabricator (JR) at JR Fabrication and Performance did the polishing of the eccetric shaft. I don't know an exact price on polishing it because it just a standard of his to sit all parts in parts cleaner and haing everything as clean as possible for every build, but I can ask if you would like. I honestly think it wouldn't cost a whole lot because he just places it on his lathe machine and gets them done real quick.

lol Thats what I meaning to say about the double sprung apex seals...your right. Let me get back to you regarding the purpose of the double springs that way I don't put wrong information out there for you and other readers out there.

Okay I spoke with my builder and the reason for the double sprung apex seal is because while under boost the strength of the extra spring will allow for a better seal to conteract the stress it is experiencing.

who is building your motor if u dont mind me asking?
looking good btw!

cool build...you learn something new everyday. Keep it up man!

Can't wait to see what gains you get from all your mods.

This car is going to be retarded fast.

Thanks!

JR Fabrication & Performance
1718 SW Biltmore Street
Port Saint Lucie, FL 34984
(772)343-0510
Builder/Fabricator: JR Shoun

Thanks alot! I've got alot more interesting modifications to post up I just don't want to spoil them right now. So stay tuned. Another thing about the double sprunged apex seal that may make sense in my mind is that after long period of time that extra support would help rather than a single spring being wore out after all stress given to it.

I hope so, only time will tell................................:dunno:

Now is there 2 big AND 2 little springs? or do u use 1 of each and just ad 1 more big or 1 more little one as a "helper"

I get the idea just curious how this works

looks great keep it up buddy.

Oh man....I don't know if I can recall the past that well, it been a loooong time since I had that motor put together. LoL...Sorry! let me get back to you on that question too. I want to say two large springs and one small one, but don't take my word for it until I get back to you asap.

and if u can get me a price on the polish of the e-shaft that would be cool, I would love to send mine out to get polished.

No problem I'll do that for you as soon as possible.

If you get a chance after the build to swap out for a stock UIM/LIM, I'd love to see the difference you get with all that work, 20+whp is worth it for sure, especially if it means you can achieve that level at lower boost...

You know I should do that because I have another RE motor sitting at the shop. I know for sure there's gonna be a difference because with all the port matching and changing the flow of air it'll be like try to breath with a straw after running a mile. Actually right now my other friend who has the same except setup in a 10th anny, but minus the streetport, UIM/LIM port matching, FD housings & TB. He put down I believe 303rwhp@10psi on a mustang dyno with a crappy tune.Oh I also forgot to mention both the 10th anny and the T78 FD let off on the dyno at 7500rpms.