I'm at work so I'm not clicking on that link ;)

Surprisingly it's actually a safe link. However, it's a terrible name for a company.

or is it?

We sub contract out to a REALLY heavy, really unkempt guy who calls his company
Fiberglass
And
Repair
Technology

So back on topic: When wiring in multiple coil/igniter's for the ignition system what is the standard practice to wire in the ECU 12V lead?

Should one use a Junction or power distribution block to split the lead into 4 or more other coils, or should one use multiple op-amp's and solder them in?

How is an old, fat, unshaven, irregular showerer who calls his company FART not on topic? :lol:

Here's what I do.... I use the B/Y wire from the main fuse block, EGI fuse I BELIEVE as the turn on for the relay thaty powers the ECU.... It's also used as the turn on for the radio, the GPS, Sirius etc etc etc etc... Which ever ciruit you use, it needs to be hot when cranking. Wire the relay directly to the bat through a breaker/fuse.

For the ignition system, injectors, fuel pump etc, I use the Fuel Pump Relay option in the Motec. It's adjustable for time on, delay, whatever. This output triggers the relays that turn on power for the injectors, ignition, solenoids, etc. Each has their own fuse and relay.

lol, you didn't answer the question though. I have 4 coils but only 1 12V wire. Should I use op-amp circuits to ensure each of the 4 wires coming from the op-amp have the same current and voltage to the coils, or should I just use a junction box which ensures equal voltage but current is different? (It's on topic because Op-Amp I would solder in the wires, junction is a 'crimp')

Stepdown buttconnectors... one 12ish gaughe wire goes in, 4 18 ga wires come out. Crimp and you're done homer.

If crimping is acceptable then, I might purchase a weather pack plug. Wire in the ECU lead to the plug and wire in the coils to the other side of the plug giving me a one point disconnect to the coils for both easy inspection and removal.

I'll post my plan in better detail in my ShowOff Thread.

I wouldn't use weatherpack... personal preference is for metripack. In the case of anything fuel or ignition related though, I always use Deutsch connectors though.

Is there a particular reason why one plug is better applied than another?

Weatherpack is bigger and bulkier but they can take more Amps.
Metrpack is smaller, takes less amps buit I like thier pins more.
Deutsch has the best pins, best sealing, and as a bonus you can get them with the extended lip on the back and get some 4:1 heatshrink and have a totally sealed connector.

Amps kinda vary with all of them as you can get a bigger series Metripack to handle more amps.

But, there is nothing on an engine that requires the 25A that the weatherpacks allow.

https://www.wirecare.com/deutschdt.a...&theSeries=DTM

This makes ordering the plugs easy-peasy.

Cool.... I go to Batts Racing... I'll compare prices later..

Where do you guys order your wire from?
I placed a huge order with Polar Wire, which is a machine service/arctic rated wire and crimps. I wanted to try it out after my brother re-wired his motorcycle with it and has been incredibly happy. Its 1/2 the price of TXL rated wire I can find through google, and offers very similar qualities. Same goes for the copper tinned crimps.

I also just bought one of the ebay $70 480 piece 3m heatshrink connector sets. Cant wait to get it in.