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Hey mudflap, is your BW S475 just one of the $650 ghetto versions? .......... fuck they are good for the price! been using a few lately.
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Also mudflap, no need for you to guess restrictions, BW have a fantastic tool (no ghetto spec BW's included though! you need to shell out and buy a race turbocharger version) to do all the testing you need, just need to feed it with some right info from basic testing etc.
This is a fully worked over 1120bhp 13B turbo set up I have done, for you to look over ;) YES IT WORKS IN REALITY. Buy yourself a turbine speed sensor and a few pressure sensors and map this stuff, its not too hard to do :) Nothing worse than guessing :) Here is the link > http://www.turbodriven.com/performan...6_wrsin=92044& |
Yes just the basic S475 but we modified the compressor cover for a bit more flow. You can't beat them for the price. Ours has had a real hiding and yet we have not had a single problem. And the thrust still feels as good as new. Even when street/circuit driving the lag is less than you would expect from a turbo that size and transient response is surprisingly good. It easily makes 25psi+ on the 2 step but it's no use to us as we get a better 60ft by leaving the line at 15psi or less - hard when the gate spring is 20psi.
Another reason why they are such good value for dollar - the wheels are balanced individually and parts are cheap, so they can be easily rebuilt at home. The matchbot is flash but we've run out of aux in's for logging so don't have enough real data to make much use of it. Fuel press and turbine press have to take turns on the same channel haha. It might be time to change from the G4RX to an Extreme. |
I like them too, took me too many years of being 'raped' by Garrett to finally wake up. :coolgleamA:
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it won't ever be as responsive as some of the mid frame BB turbos but the BB market is still anal about selling you all new shit when the turbos go south. fuck Garrett, the company you love to hate.. love the response, hate the price tags when the turbos do wind up needing to go into the shop. rather surprised no one has offered rebuild kits for them yet, regardless that ceramic ball bearings are not exactly super hard to find now. anyone who can mill a bore could probably find an oversize bearing set to work. turbos aren't rocket science, though the manufacturers try to convince you that it is. 2 fan blades, 2 bearings, thrust bearing, 2 seals and balancing to handle the 120k+ RPMs they spin up to. |
I have been everywhere with turbo's dealing with one idiot here who was manufacturing his own BB centers (lost count of how many failed!) in the end the old shit box plain bearings suspended by oil is all you need, and the cunts can be rebuilt by anyone and they are for 'like size' really no different anyway.
Got people who run these on Diesel tractor pullers at near 80psi boost! not dreamers like on the internets but cunts who know what a turbo speed sensor is, people make their own Titanium compressor wheels and upgraded thrust bearings etc etc. Garrett, and the dreamers! can all go lick my dildo cannon !@ massive rip off and for really no tangilbe benefit except to their share holders LOL. |
http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1361583399
1.5l 4 cylinder, 500hp at 1.7bar and virtually no lag above 4000RPM with redline of 10200RPM. The turbo they use? Garrett journal bearing turbo from the Cosworth V6 F1 engine, circa 1986. Just shows you don't need billet wheels, dual ceramic ball bearings, pixie dust or any other magic... just proper wheel sizing, proper manifold, and proper engine management (that engine runs life racing ECU with DBW). |
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Also, i noticed you're in calgary.. this forum seems to be three quarters south-eastern states and a quarter alberta. And Rice. |
double post cuuuuuuuuuuuunts
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They are a really good turbo.
This power in a full weight FD (1300kg as run) and stock gearbox (true road car) does 9.9's @ 146mph on ~ 29psi boost. (as per engine dyno test) 770bhp @ 8500rpm and well over 20psi boost at 4500rpm! http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/239...ygayjunior.jpg |
Didn't know which thread to post this in but this seems like a good fit.
RICE, a while ago I found you post this and i saved it because I saw the obvious value in it: Quote:
And the 25% - 40% value.. How did you come up with that? Experimentally or is there some math behind it? |
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Finally I then prove all of this myself before I state it as Fact V's Fiction :smilielol5: That above recommendation you kept is my own experience that backs up my own research and that of others in this field for forced induction set up. NA I can not comment, in all of my years I have done little on that as 1) it never interested me 2) NA is gay! :o21: The only caveat I will say in regards to what I have given and you have saved, like I say in my Aquamist 'rant' lol I only give out information that is a couple of years behind what I currently do, I am not a free service anymore like I used to be, as I found everyone who currently does this in rotary world ALL go off my old information, so I learned to keep my own IP to myself, until it is redundant to me and then I freely give that other stuff out. Needless to say my 'old' information to some people is all they need to know to be totally amazed at how good water injection is on a forced induction engine. |
bumpski
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I don't have any proof or anything but I've been running about 24psi on 91/93 pump gas with water injection (washer fluid actually) as a safety net, but I've been told I should still turn the boost down some lol.
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